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Simple DIY Audio Install on 2015 XLT Questions/Thread

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Old 11-20-2015, 02:27 PM
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Default Simple DIY Audio Install on 2015 XLT Questions/Thread

So I saw 1Chad's install thread and while it looks awesome, it also looks like a lot of work. In this thread, I want to outline what I want to accomplish and ask some questions that hopefully the smarter guys on here can answer

WHAT I WANT TO DO:
I have a 2015 XLT 302A. It has the MFT, no nav, no sub or upgraded sound. I want to replace all 4 door speakers, amplify them, and add a single amplified subwoofer.

MY QUESTIONS:
1) I really don't want to mess around with the door tweeters or center speaker in the dash. I don't care if they stay hooked up or not. All my previous cars, I didn't do anything with the tweeters, just ran new door speakers. However, I understand the MFT stereo does some fancy processing with what signals it sends to the front doors vs the front tweeters. My initial though was to just amplify the rear door signals and run those to all 4 doors, however, will this affect sync? My understanding is that sync voice and the bluetooth for phone calls run through the front speakers only. Other than buying an expensive sound processor, how can I simply accomplish my audio plans without losing sync/phone?
Old 11-20-2015, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by coldengineer
So I saw 1Chad's install thread and while it looks awesome, it also looks like a lot of work. In this thread, I want to outline what I want to accomplish and ask some questions that hopefully the smarter guys on here can answer

WHAT I WANT TO DO:
I have a 2015 XLT 302A. It has the MFT, no nav, no sub or upgraded sound. I want to replace all 4 door speakers, amplify them, and add a single amplified subwoofer.

MY QUESTIONS:
1) I really don't want to mess around with the door tweeters or center speaker in the dash. I don't care if they stay hooked up or not. All my previous cars, I didn't do anything with the tweeters, just ran new door speakers. However, I understand the MFT stereo does some fancy processing with what signals it sends to the front doors vs the front tweeters. My initial though was to just amplify the rear door signals and run those to all 4 doors, however, will this affect sync? My understanding is that sync voice and the bluetooth for phone calls run through the front speakers only. Other than buying an expensive sound processor, how can I simply accomplish my audio plans without losing sync/phone?
The only processing in the XLT that I know of is bass roll off at higher volumes. The tweeters are hooked up inline with the door speakers with a CAP to keep the low signals out.
You can get the 2014 Kicker kit that includes door speakers, amp and sub. However the door speakers are a different size (6x9) in a 2015 than a 2014 (6x8)

What I suggest doing is change out the door speakers with some good coaxial. Ones that have a higher efficiency than the factory ones. I would also add an amp and sub or a powered sub. One or 2 - 10" would be best. You can tap into your rear speakers to supply the signal. What you will find is that the sub will allow you to cut your bass level on the HU to about mid range. You will have all the bass you need and you will have better sound coming out of the door speakers because you have better speakers and they won't be distorted by having the bass turned up. I left the factory tweeters hooked up. If you aren't happy with the results then add an amp to the door speakers and use the front speakers as the input so the Sync voice will still be heard.

Last edited by Wyo11Scab; 11-20-2015 at 04:59 PM.
Old 11-20-2015, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
The only processing in the XLT that I know of is bass roll off at higher volumes. The tweeters are hooked up inline with the door speakers with a CAP to keep the low signals out.
You can get the 2014 Kicker kit that includes door speakers, amp and sub. However the door speakers are a different size (6x9) in a 2015 than a 2014 (6x8)

What I suggest doing is change out the door speakers with some good coaxial. Ones that have a higher efficiency than the factory ones. I would also add an amp and sub or a powered sub. One or 2 - 10" would be best. You can tap into your rear speakers to supply the signal. What you will find is that the sub will allow you to cut your bass level on the HU to about mid range. You will have all the bass you need and you will have better sound coming out of the door speakers because you have better speakers and they won't be distorted by having the bass turned up. I left the factory tweeters hooked up. If you aren't happy with the results then add an amp to the door speakers and use the front speakers as the input so the Sync voice will still be heard.
Awesome! This simplifies a lot.

In my opinion, the higher end trim levels try to do too much with "premium" stereo. I had some amplified 6.5s all around in my 4Runner with a cheap pioneer head unit and it sounded better than the Lariat Sony I test drove.
Old 11-24-2015, 12:58 PM
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I'm running a clarion 75x4 amp behind the HU with the parrot harness between the truck harness and the HU. I haven't changed anything else yet, not even the stock speakers, and it sounds pretty good and gets loud. Very easy and no cutting of any wires.

I'll probably do speakers and add a sub later but for now it's plenty.



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