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Rodney's boxes with amp + sub

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Old 10-06-2014, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 48ford
Again, the amps that you are looking at, from what I've looked into, don't even give an efficiency rating or actual specs (let's say around 12.4v). If they are getting 500 watts rms @ 14v, it's not making 500w rms @ 12v. Now add in your Efficiency to your cheap amp which has a ton off watt loss due to heat, and your left with a running amplifier working a lot harder for less wattage. As I said, there is a reason these amps are worth the money. They last longer, don't heat up as much (more efficient) and produce the wattage rms that they claim under load. In your terminology, the kool aid isn't as watered down I guess 😉. There's a reason the big names are at the top, they don't cut corners, and I'll pay for that.
I've never cheaped out in head units but I have with amps and subs. It would be a joy to run JL's like you do but I can't justfiy the price. The amp I do decide to purchase will always get 14v plus of juice cause the truck will be running.
Old 10-06-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by UrbnRzqr
I've never cheaped out in head units but I have with amps and subs. It would be a joy to run JL's like you do but I can't justfiy the price. The amp I do decide to purchase will always get 14v plus of juice cause the truck will be running.
An entry level JL jx amp is not much more, if even more, expensive than what you are looking at. Just trying to help you guys out and see the positive of waiting that extra month or whatever to save up and buy something of better quality and reliability. It's not just watts (peak) and watts (rms) that make up an amplifier.
Old 10-06-2014, 09:09 PM
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I spend my money on good speakers. At the end of the day, all I want is an amplifier that makes rated power with little distortion. The amps I have been discussing do exactly what I'm looking for. My point in this whole discussion was that the difference between upper-mid tier amps like JL and Alpine and lower-mid tier like MB Quart, Soundstream, and PPI is virtually inaudible. Anyone who tells you they can hear the difference is justifying their money spent. I'll certainly concede that your JL is probably higher quality, but a platinum is higher quality than my XLT. My XLT gets the job done, just like the inexpensive amps I use and recommend.

Last edited by king nothing; 10-06-2014 at 09:11 PM.
Old 10-07-2014, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by king nothing
Well that sucks. W3 or type-r looks like the ticket.....
I pulled the trigger on a fox box and was wondering if this is what you reffered to as the W3...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-10W3v3-4.html

Doesn't seem crazy pricey. Gonna start a new fox box thread.

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Old 10-07-2014, 08:02 AM
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Yes, thats the w3. Fox recommends them or the type-r for their dual 10 box. Should fit in the single box as well one would think.
Old 10-11-2014, 06:44 PM
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I have a box from Rodney's with two 10" kicker CVT shallow mount. They sound awesome for the money and the box rocks. Well worth the money. Just do not overpower the subs - I had a JL Audio 500/1 on it and they didn't sounf as good as they do now with about 200 watts per side...
Old 10-27-2014, 04:49 PM
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Hey dude. I followed your stereo buildup, trying to learn something in the proccess, And I wonder how it turned up?
I'm thinking on adding a sub also.
Old 10-29-2014, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pibi
Hey dude. I followed your stereo buildup, trying to learn something in the proccess, And I wonder how it turned up?
I'm thinking on adding a sub also.
Hey bud, all my equipments in and must say the type R and fox box combo pounds for one 10".

I didn't go with Rodneys due to the limited woofer depth so can't say how well it would perform, but i believe most if not all were sealed enclosures. I do mostly hip hop and dance hence the vented box.

There are so many variables I would recommend starting your own thread and specifying your cab, year and factory stereo. There are some very helpful members here.
Old 10-30-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 48ford
Again, the amps that you are looking at, from what I've looked into, don't even give an efficiency rating or actual specs (let's say around 12.4v). If they are getting 500 watts rms @ 14v, it's not making 500w rms @ 12v. Now add in your Efficiency to your cheap amp which has a ton off watt loss due to heat, and your left with a running amplifier working a lot harder for less wattage. As I said, there is a reason these amps are worth the money. They last longer, don't heat up as much (more efficient) and produce the wattage rms that they claim under load. In your terminology, the kool aid isn't as watered down I guess 😉. There's a reason the big names are at the top, they don't cut corners, and I'll pay for that.
OMG!!! I agree...the other poster had so much BS and misinformation! One statement is true, a watt is a watt, but beyond that, damping factor, sensitivity, Signal to noise ratio, etc all play an important role. Too low of a damping factor and the amp can't recover quickly enough to transition to the next note...giving you terrible, muddy sounding bass. Most class D amplifiers recover quick enough, but the cheap ones have cheap power supplies = distortion and bad sound.
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