Right Amp for my subs ???? Sundown, custom box-
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Right Amp for my subs ???? Sundown, custom box-
I have (2) SUNDOWN AUDIO SD-3 10 D4 10" 500W RMS DUAL 4-OHM SHALLOW BASS SUBWOOFERS in a ported box tuned to 37 and downfiring-. wired together for a 4 ohm load-
will this Amp do the trick ?? because im having the amp installed i have to stick with JL or Alpine.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1369825...D1000-1v2.html
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10240-sd...subwoofer.html
will this Amp do the trick ?? because im having the amp installed i have to stick with JL or Alpine.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1369825...D1000-1v2.html
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10240-sd...subwoofer.html
#2
Senior Member
if you can pull your installer to sway brands a bit, the Sundown SAE-1000D v.2 would get you a lot closer to the recommended power for each sub at 1 ohm... and match the woofers.
But the JL amp would work, although you would drastically underpower the subs. Keep in mind, a larger enclosure can increase efficiency with lower power. So if your enclosure is over the recommended size, the JL would possibly work better. But if you are at recommended size or smaller, more power is a better idea.
Personally, I would shoot for the Sundown and wire the woofers at 1 ohm. Or, if you want to stay at 4 ohm, shoot for the Alpine MRX-110. It does a tad bit more power than the JL at 4 and 2 ohms, plus is half the price, for the same quality.
But the JL amp would work, although you would drastically underpower the subs. Keep in mind, a larger enclosure can increase efficiency with lower power. So if your enclosure is over the recommended size, the JL would possibly work better. But if you are at recommended size or smaller, more power is a better idea.
Personally, I would shoot for the Sundown and wire the woofers at 1 ohm. Or, if you want to stay at 4 ohm, shoot for the Alpine MRX-110. It does a tad bit more power than the JL at 4 and 2 ohms, plus is half the price, for the same quality.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Boom i'd prefer to stay at 4 ohms..... so Alpine MRX-110 would do the trick-?. since i'm saving on the mono i'll switch to the Alpine MRV-F300 to drive my JL C5-570'S....
Last edited by freddyttt; 10-04-2015 at 09:03 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Boom iv'e read so many conflicting reports online at some of the car audio forums around the net. + my subs are screwed in and wired up at 4 ohm.
all that said i wanna do this right. my preference is classic rock and maybe some new country. i don't listen to rap. the box is ported and built to spec for these subs although the subs prefer sealed i wanted to try ported. tuned to 37.
#6
Senior Member
Boom iv'e read so many conflicting reports online at some of the car audio forums around the net. + my subs are screwed in and wired up at 4 ohm.
all that said i wanna do this right. my preference is classic rock and maybe some new country. i don't listen to rap. the box is ported and built to spec for these subs although the subs prefer sealed i wanted to try ported. tuned to 37.
all that said i wanna do this right. my preference is classic rock and maybe some new country. i don't listen to rap. the box is ported and built to spec for these subs although the subs prefer sealed i wanted to try ported. tuned to 37.
Always been a big debate of quality vs impedance, but with todays modern Class D amps that are rated at 1 ohm, you won't hear the difference of quality in them. Even in my last setup, I wired for 2 ohm daily/0.5 ohm competion... Couldn't tell an audible difference in quality from 2 ohm to 0.5 ohm, apart from 0.5 just being a LOT louder to both the ear and meter(5 decibels!).
But for what you are doing, I think you will be very happy with these woofers. If not, you could drop them to 1 ohm and be fairly safe, impedance rise will cause you to almost never encounter a true 1 ohm load on music, or you could seal the enclosure.
Please, do post videos of it completed!
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks again Boom. i really wish i can do the install but thats for another topic.
would this-
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-o4LbB2t...-HD1200-1.html
or this-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXM....html?tp=35834
be better suited for the 4 ohm load-.??? id rather not spend that money but it is what it is....
or stick with this-.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRXM...-MRX-M110.html
would this-
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-o4LbB2t...-HD1200-1.html
or this-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXM....html?tp=35834
be better suited for the 4 ohm load-.??? id rather not spend that money but it is what it is....
or stick with this-.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRXM...-MRX-M110.html
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#8
Senior Member
I would stick with the MRX-110 just to save money in all honesty. The JL is just so madly expensive everywhere. You can snag the PDX-M12 on Amazon for a hair under $500 on Amazon, and for $550 on SonicElectronix. The PDX and JL share some of the same/similar technology, the regulated powersupplies, also similar to the ones in Rockford's BDCP aswell.
If you want to save a lot of money but be down on power, stick with the MRX-110. If you just want the 1200w @ 4 ohms, go with the PDX-M12. But, if you do go with the M12, I would most definitely have your installer upgrade you to some 1/0 wire, and go with a set of machined 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers. Those constant power regulated supplies can pull a LOT of juice. I've seen people running the Fosgate T1500's and JL HD1200's, unfused at that, pulling well over 160 amps of current, clamped.
If you want to save a lot of money but be down on power, stick with the MRX-110. If you just want the 1200w @ 4 ohms, go with the PDX-M12. But, if you do go with the M12, I would most definitely have your installer upgrade you to some 1/0 wire, and go with a set of machined 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers. Those constant power regulated supplies can pull a LOT of juice. I've seen people running the Fosgate T1500's and JL HD1200's, unfused at that, pulling well over 160 amps of current, clamped.
#9
I have (1) SD-3 10" in my 2013 F150 and I am running it at 600W RMS. These shallows can take the power and sound really awesome doing so. Mine is ported - against Sundown recommendations for the SD-3 series but it sounds awesome so I stuck with it. If you have 2 I don't think you should have a problem whatsoever running them at 1K RMS.
Edit* Your link was for the SD-2 there is a difference between the subs and just to clarify I am running the 3 (the latest version).
Edit* Your link was for the SD-2 there is a difference between the subs and just to clarify I am running the 3 (the latest version).
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have (1) SD-3 10" in my 2013 F150 and I am running it at 600W RMS. These shallows can take the power and sound really awesome doing so. Mine is ported - against Sundown recommendations for the SD-3 series but it sounds awesome so I stuck with it. If you have 2 I don't think you should have a problem whatsoever running them at 1K RMS.
Edit* Your link was for the SD-2 there is a difference between the subs and just to clarify I am running the 3 (the latest version).
Edit* Your link was for the SD-2 there is a difference between the subs and just to clarify I am running the 3 (the latest version).
Thanks-.
here is what i have-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131493850470?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT