PXE-H660 Sub??
07-02-2012, 06:25 PM
#11
I would try listening to each door speaker one at a time to determine if you have a blown tweeter in any of them. If there is a blown tweeter, the H660 is probably using the rear driver's side channel as a subwoofer channel. That is the exact problem that I had. The only way to solve this problem is to repair or replace the bad speaker or speakers.
Alpine tech support doesn't know that this is how their product works, but I know this to be the case because the software has a section that states it. You have to get quite a ways into the laptop setup process to get to the section where it talks about it (the info appears in an instructional sidebar).
Alpine tech support doesn't know that this is how their product works, but I know this to be the case because the software has a section that states it. You have to get quite a ways into the laptop setup process to get to the section where it talks about it (the info appears in an instructional sidebar).
07-02-2012, 06:34 PM
#12
I did use a laptop, but it wouldn't connect. It's Win7, but I ran the program on XP SP3 and XP SP2. Didn't work. The unit said it was in Laptop mode, but the software (AntEQ) couldn't connect.
I have another laptop that I will load XP onto and see if I can get it to work.
The sub's cutoff freq is poor. I have it at 60 Fc. AGain, it's not the sub, 'cause the other day I was running it off the rear driver's channel and it sounded GREAT.
I have another laptop that I will load XP onto and see if I can get it to work.
The sub's cutoff freq is poor. I have it at 60 Fc. AGain, it's not the sub, 'cause the other day I was running it off the rear driver's channel and it sounded GREAT.
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Guinness68 (07-02-2012)
07-03-2012, 12:34 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, so, I will run the software and see if I can find out the issue. Do you just leave the laptop in the truck while it's running the tests. Is there a log to review after?
Here's my history and current symptoms.
Installed the sub and go no sound out of it, unless I pressed Sub+ or Sub-, then it would burb with each press of the button. I decided to swap the RCA for the driver's rear to the sub just to make sure it was working. Sounded GREAT! During the mic setup, I turned the down low. I heard it when it was firing during the test, but it was faint. When the system was done, the sub didn't fire at all.
After another reset, I set the gain on the sub to half and redid the test. This time I could clearly hear the sub firing when it did it's test. When it was all said and done, the sub sounded horrible: Muddy, didn't fire low notes, just mid-bass. I played with the amp's fliter and the DSP's crossover and got it to sound sorta OK with some songs. But for the most part, it sucks.
This morning, I wanted to see if each speaker was working. So, on the drive into the office, I change the HU balance and fader to isolate each driver. Interestingly, the fade worked, but not completely. Both front and back would fire.
@galman67 What symptoms lead you to believe the rear driver was getting the sub's signal?
Here's my history and current symptoms.
Installed the sub and go no sound out of it, unless I pressed Sub+ or Sub-, then it would burb with each press of the button. I decided to swap the RCA for the driver's rear to the sub just to make sure it was working. Sounded GREAT! During the mic setup, I turned the down low. I heard it when it was firing during the test, but it was faint. When the system was done, the sub didn't fire at all.
After another reset, I set the gain on the sub to half and redid the test. This time I could clearly hear the sub firing when it did it's test. When it was all said and done, the sub sounded horrible: Muddy, didn't fire low notes, just mid-bass. I played with the amp's fliter and the DSP's crossover and got it to sound sorta OK with some songs. But for the most part, it sucks.
This morning, I wanted to see if each speaker was working. So, on the drive into the office, I change the HU balance and fader to isolate each driver. Interestingly, the fade worked, but not completely. Both front and back would fire.
@galman67 What symptoms lead you to believe the rear driver was getting the sub's signal?
07-04-2012, 12:15 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok. I did the laptop version. Xp SP3 mode in win 7 works well. I liked the setup with the laptop better.
But would like more options.
After it was done the sub was faint, but better. The door drivers sounded like they were in Tin Cans. What damn setting is that? "I know... We NEED a tin can setting to frustrate our end users. It'll be funny" says the Alpine programmer.
I'll run it again in the AM. I've noticed that running against yeilds different results.
Funny .... The guy who recommended I use this Dsp has been Silent through this entire install, build, and setup.
The laptop didn't say I had any blown tweeters. Whew.
But would like more options.
After it was done the sub was faint, but better. The door drivers sounded like they were in Tin Cans. What damn setting is that? "I know... We NEED a tin can setting to frustrate our end users. It'll be funny" says the Alpine programmer.
I'll run it again in the AM. I've noticed that running against yeilds different results.
Funny .... The guy who recommended I use this Dsp has been Silent through this entire install, build, and setup.
The laptop didn't say I had any blown tweeters. Whew.
07-04-2012, 02:31 AM
#15
Ok, so, I will run the software and see if I can find out the issue. Do you just leave the laptop in the truck while it's running the tests. Is there a log to review after?
Here's my history and current symptoms.
Installed the sub and go no sound out of it, unless I pressed Sub+ or Sub-, then it would burb with each press of the button. I decided to swap the RCA for the driver's rear to the sub just to make sure it was working. Sounded GREAT! During the mic setup, I turned the down low. I heard it when it was firing during the test, but it was faint. When the system was done, the sub didn't fire at all.
After another reset, I set the gain on the sub to half and redid the test. This time I could clearly hear the sub firing when it did it's test. When it was all said and done, the sub sounded horrible: Muddy, didn't fire low notes, just mid-bass. I played with the amp's fliter and the DSP's crossover and got it to sound sorta OK with some songs. But for the most part, it sucks.
This morning, I wanted to see if each speaker was working. So, on the drive into the office, I change the HU balance and fader to isolate each driver. Interestingly, the fade worked, but not completely. Both front and back would fire.
@galman67 What symptoms lead you to believe the rear driver was getting the sub's signal?
Here's my history and current symptoms.
Installed the sub and go no sound out of it, unless I pressed Sub+ or Sub-, then it would burb with each press of the button. I decided to swap the RCA for the driver's rear to the sub just to make sure it was working. Sounded GREAT! During the mic setup, I turned the down low. I heard it when it was firing during the test, but it was faint. When the system was done, the sub didn't fire at all.
After another reset, I set the gain on the sub to half and redid the test. This time I could clearly hear the sub firing when it did it's test. When it was all said and done, the sub sounded horrible: Muddy, didn't fire low notes, just mid-bass. I played with the amp's fliter and the DSP's crossover and got it to sound sorta OK with some songs. But for the most part, it sucks.
This morning, I wanted to see if each speaker was working. So, on the drive into the office, I change the HU balance and fader to isolate each driver. Interestingly, the fade worked, but not completely. Both front and back would fire.
@galman67 What symptoms lead you to believe the rear driver was getting the sub's signal?
When calibrating with the laptop it would stop after measuring the first position and produce a warning message saying that the rear left channel had an incorrect speaker type. My first h660 unit said it was supposed to be a subwoofer on that channel, and my next unit just said I had the wrong kind of speaker on that channel. A new set of speakers fixed this problem. I am starting to wonder if anyone has had good luck with an H660.
07-05-2012, 12:46 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yesterday i was able to run the set a couple of more times. On the 2nd laptop run, I received an error message. Channel 1 wiring is inverted. Same with 2, 3, 4 and 5. If so, then It's NOT inverted. LOL I thought that was funny. It only gave me that error one time.
Long story somewhat short... I ended up not using the software. Levels are good in all channels. The system screams! But my sub still sounds poor. It rattles the cab, it just can't go low (40-60hz range). I have the Fc at 30hz. I can't get a good quick thump. And I have maxed out the 40hz boost on the amp (which is what it was in my last setup).
I can't tell if it's the processor OR the sub itself. The driver in another enclosure sounded great. It was Tight, and low. Now, in the new enclosure it is muddy at best.
How to test/figure out the source... is it the enclosure or the processor?
Long story somewhat short... I ended up not using the software. Levels are good in all channels. The system screams! But my sub still sounds poor. It rattles the cab, it just can't go low (40-60hz range). I have the Fc at 30hz. I can't get a good quick thump. And I have maxed out the 40hz boost on the amp (which is what it was in my last setup).
I can't tell if it's the processor OR the sub itself. The driver in another enclosure sounded great. It was Tight, and low. Now, in the new enclosure it is muddy at best.
How to test/figure out the source... is it the enclosure or the processor?