PXE-H660 Sub??
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
PXE-H660 Sub??
Sub built. everything installed.
BUT... I get no sound from the sub. If I press the sub up/down buttons I get a burp with each increase or decrease increment. But other than that, I have NO sound from my sub.
Any ideas on how to troubleshoot? There's no troubleshoot in the manual.
BUT... I get no sound from the sub. If I press the sub up/down buttons I get a burp with each increase or decrease increment. But other than that, I have NO sound from my sub.
Any ideas on how to troubleshoot? There's no troubleshoot in the manual.
#2
Call Alpine.. No other ideas, sorry. I had a pxe h-701 and when I had questions they were somewhat helpful...
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well. I grabbed the left rear channel and used it fur the sub. It sounds great!
But. I need to get this fixd. Of guess Alpine is a M-F 8-5 company?
But. I need to get this fixd. Of guess Alpine is a M-F 8-5 company?
#4
I've had a half dozen or so conversations with them about my H660. The first thing they will tell you to do is reset it (hold the reset button for at least 15 seconds) and then go through your initial setup procedure and calibration again. Everytime I called them that was basically all they told me. I had to figure out the problem on my own (tweeter blown). They even argued with me over that being the problem when I suggested it, but it was the problem. So hopefully they can do better with your problem. I did find one tech who gave me troubleshooting tips. Good luck.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
ok... so....
I cruised around today with the Driver's side rear channel being fed to the Sub. Thoughts:
It sounded Fan-Fing-Tastic! The sub was true. It was tight and powerful. Fit the rest of the system well.
Then tonight, not wanting to give up, I did a full 15+ second reset.
Now the sub worked! But it sounds horrible versus the other (previous) set up. Muddy. I tweaked and saved the Custom Setup, where I was able to change the slope, gain, and Frequency Center point. But it still sounded muddy. If I hadn't heard it thump so good with the make-shift set up, I'd say, I need poly fill or a full re-design. But, Seriously, it sounded great! So, it's the Tuning, not the actual sub.
I will redo the set up again. See if that helps.
Of course, I'm open to suggestions.
I cruised around today with the Driver's side rear channel being fed to the Sub. Thoughts:
It sounded Fan-Fing-Tastic! The sub was true. It was tight and powerful. Fit the rest of the system well.
Then tonight, not wanting to give up, I did a full 15+ second reset.
Now the sub worked! But it sounds horrible versus the other (previous) set up. Muddy. I tweaked and saved the Custom Setup, where I was able to change the slope, gain, and Frequency Center point. But it still sounded muddy. If I hadn't heard it thump so good with the make-shift set up, I'd say, I need poly fill or a full re-design. But, Seriously, it sounded great! So, it's the Tuning, not the actual sub.
I will redo the set up again. See if that helps.
Of course, I'm open to suggestions.
#9
From my experience, I can think of one possible idea that might be of help to you. If you have not done so already, try using a laptop to tune it. I have had bad results tuning with a laptop as far as sq goes, but what it is helpful for is trouble shooting because it will give warnings if there are issues with your system (such as a blown tweeter). It won't come out and say there is a blown tweeter, but it will tell you an incorrect speaker was identified. For me, both driver's side 5x7's had inoperable tweeters, so it treated the rear driver's side channel as if there was a sub there. The system actually sounded quite good this way (sending sub frequencies to the rear driver side 5x7). It sounds like there might be some similarities between your situation and mine. Good luck.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
From my experience, I can think of one possible idea that might be of help to you. If you have not done so already, try using a laptop to tune it. I have had bad results tuning with a laptop as far as sq goes, but what it is helpful for is trouble shooting because it will give warnings if there are issues with your system (such as a blown tweeter). It won't come out and say there is a blown tweeter, but it will tell you an incorrect speaker was identified. For me, both driver's side 5x7's had inoperable tweeters, so it treated the rear driver's side channel as if there was a sub there. The system actually sounded quite good this way (sending sub frequencies to the rear driver side 5x7). It sounds like there might be some similarities between your situation and mine. Good luck.
I have another laptop that I will load XP onto and see if I can get it to work.
The sub's cutoff freq is poor. I have it at 60 Fc. AGain, it's not the sub, 'cause the other day I was running it off the rear driver's channel and it sounded GREAT.