Pictures: Doors deadened
08-10-2011, 02:34 PM
#1
Pictures: Doors deadened
2011 SuperCrew
I ordered a shop pack of the damplifier pro, and 4 sheets of overkill pro. I also ordered the speaker tweaker kit, and a can of the spray contact adhesive.
http://secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/noise-filter/overkill-pro.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/speaker-tweaker-kit.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/spray-gun-adhesive.php
I started with the drivers door. Getting the panel off is fairly easy, keep track of your bolts. I used 2/3 layers on the outer skin, 3 along shelf(between the outerskin/innerskin), 1/2 patch layers on the back of the inner skin, and patches on the front side of the skin. I removed the bolts for the window track, and regulator/motor assembly, and applied a layer between those parts. After the door had plenty of damplifier pro, I cut the overkill pro to fit, sprayed, let it tack, and applied to the outerskin of the door.
The passenger door is much easier. There are less mechanical bits and less wiring so it was easier. Same as the drivers door, but the layers are full sheets instead of having to cut and peice together.
Then placed the speaker tweaker kit, sprayed and let it tack before pressing it into place.
The door cards also got 2 or 3 sheets of damplifer pro each, and then a almost a sheet of overkill pro was cut and sprayed into place.
I didn't have the time to attempt to seal the doors, but they are much heavier now. Before deadening, the doors felt solid, and now the before and after is like a old rust bucket to a new solid vehicle. It makes a big difference. The sound from the door speakers is much improved in terms of midbass output. If you were not going to do anything to your stereo system, I recommend taking the time and deadening your doors along with some sort of accoustical barrier. It's worth it.
The rear doors got a layer or two on the outer and inner skin, no closed cell foam or speaker twearker.
I ordered a shop pack of the damplifier pro, and 4 sheets of overkill pro. I also ordered the speaker tweaker kit, and a can of the spray contact adhesive.
http://secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/noise-filter/overkill-pro.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/speaker-tweaker-kit.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/spray-gun-adhesive.php
I started with the drivers door. Getting the panel off is fairly easy, keep track of your bolts. I used 2/3 layers on the outer skin, 3 along shelf(between the outerskin/innerskin), 1/2 patch layers on the back of the inner skin, and patches on the front side of the skin. I removed the bolts for the window track, and regulator/motor assembly, and applied a layer between those parts. After the door had plenty of damplifier pro, I cut the overkill pro to fit, sprayed, let it tack, and applied to the outerskin of the door.
The passenger door is much easier. There are less mechanical bits and less wiring so it was easier. Same as the drivers door, but the layers are full sheets instead of having to cut and peice together.
Then placed the speaker tweaker kit, sprayed and let it tack before pressing it into place.
The door cards also got 2 or 3 sheets of damplifer pro each, and then a almost a sheet of overkill pro was cut and sprayed into place.
I didn't have the time to attempt to seal the doors, but they are much heavier now. Before deadening, the doors felt solid, and now the before and after is like a old rust bucket to a new solid vehicle. It makes a big difference. The sound from the door speakers is much improved in terms of midbass output. If you were not going to do anything to your stereo system, I recommend taking the time and deadening your doors along with some sort of accoustical barrier. It's worth it.
The rear doors got a layer or two on the outer and inner skin, no closed cell foam or speaker twearker.
Last edited by SkierMan; 08-10-2011 at 02:38 PM.
08-10-2011, 03:14 PM
#3
I hope to attempt cover as much as possible like you did, some time this weekend. All the holes, wires, etc, made me feel a little defeated when I got to that part of the door. There are a lot of holes that will have to remain uncovered for the door card to fit properly. I am not sure if it's worth the effort.
08-11-2011, 06:37 AM
#5
It's worth it to get as much of the holes covered as possible. I had a new driver door skin put on after an accident and drove around a few weeks with the minimal leftover coverage after repair. The passenger side had better bass response and much cleaner bass at high volume. To seal up the holes where the door card is supported, put foam tape around the door card clips or the holes.
08-11-2011, 09:20 AM
#6
damn that second skin stuff is expensive! i do nee deaden my doors tho, but I may go the cheapy route with fatmat or something lol.
skierman, what speakers you plan on going with?
skierman, what speakers you plan on going with?
08-15-2011, 11:52 PM
#7
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08-16-2011, 10:12 AM
#8
Nice. I was gonna buy dynamat locally, but I could get a much better deal online for fatmat rattletrap. same stuff as Moto. I got 50 sq feet for 109.00 shipped. Not bad.
Ill have to hold off now installing my polk mm6501's til i get the deadener now...boooo
Ill have to hold off now installing my polk mm6501's til i get the deadener now...boooo
08-17-2011, 01:45 AM
#10