NEED HELP with Wireing Amp to stock Head unit
11-08-2011, 07:06 PM
#11
Member
Either way should work just fine. There's about the same amount of space on both sides. The key is to keep the RCAs away from the power lines if possible to reduce the chance of picking up noise in your input signal. Other than that, run the wire where it's convenient. In general, shorter runs are better (less resistance and cheaper) but it's your truck.
And a general comment on car audio, or audio in general that I've told lots of folks; don't let someone else tell you want sounds good. Audio is VERY subjective, so if it sounds good to you, that's what's important. If you're happy with no sub, great for you, since that's cheap. If the chest pounding, hair moving, peace disturbing bass from a four 12" sub setup is what sounds good to you, more power to you as well (just turn it up when you drive by my house please). Seriously, don't get roped into something really expensive at Best Buy or a boutique audio shop if the value price stuff sounds just as good to you.
And that brings me to my other point. Try to listen to what you buy before you do. Big box stores are a good place for this, as are smaller audio shops.
Sorry for the rant.
11-08-2011, 10:18 PM
#12
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Thats really good info there are a couple of current threads right now that should be sticked in my mind. If I did want free info I wouldn't be on forums. I tell people all the time buy what u like not what somebody else tells u to buy..
I am going to be powering 4 devices two amps a loc and a inverter. Trying to figure out what gauge wire to use?
I see ur from wv summit point evere go to the track I will be up there next season
I am going to be powering 4 devices two amps a loc and a inverter. Trying to figure out what gauge wire to use?
I see ur from wv summit point evere go to the track I will be up there next season
11-09-2011, 10:36 AM
#13
Member
As for wire gauge calculation, this is a pretty good resource:
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Just add up the RMS output on all of your amps to get a baseline. Not sure how much current you're going to draw with your inverter, but that would add some to your current draw, so I would jump up a bit.
If you're going behind the seats, the run is pretty long, so you may need 2 gauge wire, but you may be able to get away with a 4 gauge if this isn't a huge inverter, and you're not putting SERIOUS amps in there. In my experience a 4 x 50 Watt RMS amp for your speakers and a 200-300 Watt RMS amp for your sub(s) is enough to have a great sounding system that will be more than enough for anyone except the folks looking to win decible drag races.
As for the track, I don't get there as often as I would like. I've been karting there a couple of times, which was a BLAST. I want to race there sometime, but haven't made the commitment.
And if you're close enough and want help with the install, let me know. I'm always glad to help out. That might be an all day ordeal to get things installed clean and tuned and everything (especially if you want to sound dampen the panels or anything).
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Just add up the RMS output on all of your amps to get a baseline. Not sure how much current you're going to draw with your inverter, but that would add some to your current draw, so I would jump up a bit.
If you're going behind the seats, the run is pretty long, so you may need 2 gauge wire, but you may be able to get away with a 4 gauge if this isn't a huge inverter, and you're not putting SERIOUS amps in there. In my experience a 4 x 50 Watt RMS amp for your speakers and a 200-300 Watt RMS amp for your sub(s) is enough to have a great sounding system that will be more than enough for anyone except the folks looking to win decible drag races.
As for the track, I don't get there as often as I would like. I've been karting there a couple of times, which was a BLAST. I want to race there sometime, but haven't made the commitment.
And if you're close enough and want help with the install, let me know. I'm always glad to help out. That might be an all day ordeal to get things installed clean and tuned and everything (especially if you want to sound dampen the panels or anything).
11-09-2011, 01:04 PM
#14
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As for wire gauge calculation, this is a pretty good resource:
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Just add up the RMS output on all of your amps to get a baseline. Not sure how much current you're going to draw with your inverter, but that would add some to your current draw, so I would jump up a bit.
If you're going behind the seats, the run is pretty long, so you may need 2 gauge wire, but you may be able to get away with a 4 gauge if this isn't a huge inverter, and you're not putting SERIOUS amps in there. In my experience a 4 x 50 Watt RMS amp for your speakers and a 200-300 Watt RMS amp for your sub(s) is enough to have a great sounding system that will be more than enough for anyone except the folks looking to win decible drag races.
As for the track, I don't get there as often as I would like. I've been karting there a couple of times, which was a BLAST. I want to race there sometime, but haven't made the commitment.
And if you're close enough and want help with the install, let me know. I'm always glad to help out. That might be an all day ordeal to get things installed clean and tuned and everything (especially if you want to sound dampen the panels or anything).
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Just add up the RMS output on all of your amps to get a baseline. Not sure how much current you're going to draw with your inverter, but that would add some to your current draw, so I would jump up a bit.
If you're going behind the seats, the run is pretty long, so you may need 2 gauge wire, but you may be able to get away with a 4 gauge if this isn't a huge inverter, and you're not putting SERIOUS amps in there. In my experience a 4 x 50 Watt RMS amp for your speakers and a 200-300 Watt RMS amp for your sub(s) is enough to have a great sounding system that will be more than enough for anyone except the folks looking to win decible drag races.
As for the track, I don't get there as often as I would like. I've been karting there a couple of times, which was a BLAST. I want to race there sometime, but haven't made the commitment.
And if you're close enough and want help with the install, let me know. I'm always glad to help out. That might be an all day ordeal to get things installed clean and tuned and everything (especially if you want to sound dampen the panels or anything).
I think 4 gauge is ok I can't remember RMS off the top of my head but I think my 4 channel amp is around 60 or 70. RMS can't remember my pionner amp maybe 120, I dought the LOC requires a lot of power. the inverter I plan on installing is 1200 watts. I'm going to use two blocks one for grounding and one for power. I'd like to find a decent price on a 4 fused. I still need to get wire for my install, that is the only thing not currenlty on order.
Your info has been very helpfull to me and I thank you.
12-16-2011, 06:24 PM
#16
This is what the Guy before me put in my truck and it has RCA's out and I have one set of them conning off it my amp had 3 sets of RCA's how do I make that work ? And I have a 5 channel amp when I run the speaker wires off it to the radio would it be ok if I used t-taps to connect the speaker wire to the pre-existing speaker wire cables behind the radio ?
02-10-2012, 11:29 PM
#19
Where does the power wire going through the rubber grommet come out on the inside of the truck? Is it possible to get a pic or can someone please explain where I can find my power wire once I push it through? I was trying to go through the smaller grommet but can't find my wire on the interior.
