NEED HELP with Wireing Amp to stock Head unit
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
NEED HELP with Wireing Amp to stock Head unit
Ok so I just purchased a PAC connector so that I can just splice into the factory wireing. I dont have sony or Nav, and with that said what is the easiest way to wire an aftermarket Amp to the Stock head unit. I need as much help I can get from you guys so that I do not screw anything up, I am not the best with all this wireing stuff.
any an all info will greatly help me.
any an all info will greatly help me.
#2
which PAC did you buy? I ordered AOEM-FRD24. This should give you rca outs. That is what I am doing but remember that the FRD24 is an passive device. I'm going to use mine and them patch in to a Kicker LOC (line out converter) which is an active device the reason why I'm doing this is becuase I am using two amps one for the door speakers front and rear and one for the sub. I can't wait for it all to get here. Hopefully I can do the install next weekend. If you look at the thread build my future system you can see all what I ordered.
#3
Member
I'm about to do the same thing. It's pretty easy. Don't be intimidated.
There are only 3 screws you need to take out to get to the head unit. There are two under the little rubber mat below the lower info screen (top two arrows). You can pull up that little rubber mat to get to the two 7mm screws.
There is also one under the SYNC panel on the bottom. Just pry the little panel off and there's another 7mm screw.
The panel will still seem to be stuck. It is also held on by the two silver panels next to the center panel. Pry lightly on the top of these to get them started, then pry on the bottom. They should pop off enough to let you pull the panel out.
Once I got the panel off, after disconnecting the cable at the top for the hazard light and traction control and the cable about half way down the panel, I was able to detach the harness from the head unit by reaching behind the unit and pushing the small release lever on the top of the harness.
I didn't like the space behind the panel, so I detached the harness from the module and passed it through the opening into the drivers side footwell,
and then tucked the module out of the way, but accessable so I can still adjust the levels if I feel the need.
I'll attach the RCA cable and run it under the moulding on the driver's side tomorrow, and send the remote turn on lead (little blue wire) down the right side along with the power lead from the battery on the passenger's side tomorrow morning sometime.
If you want specific pictures, let me know and I'll post them on this thread. I'll end up with a 2 x 80 W Sony Xplod amp power a 10" Kenwood sub for now. The wiring should be enough for a lot more.
Good luck!
There are only 3 screws you need to take out to get to the head unit. There are two under the little rubber mat below the lower info screen (top two arrows). You can pull up that little rubber mat to get to the two 7mm screws.
There is also one under the SYNC panel on the bottom. Just pry the little panel off and there's another 7mm screw.
The panel will still seem to be stuck. It is also held on by the two silver panels next to the center panel. Pry lightly on the top of these to get them started, then pry on the bottom. They should pop off enough to let you pull the panel out.
Once I got the panel off, after disconnecting the cable at the top for the hazard light and traction control and the cable about half way down the panel, I was able to detach the harness from the head unit by reaching behind the unit and pushing the small release lever on the top of the harness.
I didn't like the space behind the panel, so I detached the harness from the module and passed it through the opening into the drivers side footwell,
and then tucked the module out of the way, but accessable so I can still adjust the levels if I feel the need.
I'll attach the RCA cable and run it under the moulding on the driver's side tomorrow, and send the remote turn on lead (little blue wire) down the right side along with the power lead from the battery on the passenger's side tomorrow morning sometime.
If you want specific pictures, let me know and I'll post them on this thread. I'll end up with a 2 x 80 W Sony Xplod amp power a 10" Kenwood sub for now. The wiring should be enough for a lot more.
Good luck!
#4
Member
Finished up the install today.
Biggest challenge was getting the 4G power cable through the firewall. I ended up poking a little hole in the giant grommet, then reaming it out with a 1/4" drill bit:
Then ran it under the scuff plates on the passenger side:
And in the back:
Then ran it behind the seat (you can see the remote line, too):
Here's the other end of the remote turn on lead attached to the PAC module:
Back outside to clean up the power line. You can see it wrapped in loom now:
Up close of the line running through the grommet:
The amp all hooked up. I ran the RCA cable on the drivers side to keep it away from the power lines:
Wires coming out from behind the rear panel:
There are too many pictures for one post.
Biggest challenge was getting the 4G power cable through the firewall. I ended up poking a little hole in the giant grommet, then reaming it out with a 1/4" drill bit:
Then ran it under the scuff plates on the passenger side:
And in the back:
Then ran it behind the seat (you can see the remote line, too):
Here's the other end of the remote turn on lead attached to the PAC module:
Back outside to clean up the power line. You can see it wrapped in loom now:
Up close of the line running through the grommet:
The amp all hooked up. I ran the RCA cable on the drivers side to keep it away from the power lines:
Wires coming out from behind the rear panel:
There are too many pictures for one post.
#5
Member
Amp peaking out from the folded up seat:
Sub with the seats up:
Seats down:
I had to leave the box out a bit so the seats would fold all the way down. It was a box I got an awesome deal on at PartExpress.com. I plan on building a custom 2 x 10 at some point, but this does surprisingly well for now.
Did you get to your install yet? If not, let me know when you do. I'd be glad to answer any questions you might have.
Sub with the seats up:
Seats down:
I had to leave the box out a bit so the seats would fold all the way down. It was a box I got an awesome deal on at PartExpress.com. I plan on building a custom 2 x 10 at some point, but this does surprisingly well for now.
Did you get to your install yet? If not, let me know when you do. I'd be glad to answer any questions you might have.
#6
did you attach the amp to anything? I'm trying to decide between putting everthing on the back wall or under the seat but I have 2 amps and zxsum 8. will the remote power power all 3 of those? comeing off the pac
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Freakeystyley,
how did you connect the speakers wires that came out of the amplifier to speakers? Did you ran them straight to the speakers at the doors or you tap them back to pac and use the stock wires from the hu to speakers. Please share how you did this. Thanks. Eric.
how did you connect the speakers wires that came out of the amplifier to speakers? Did you ran them straight to the speakers at the doors or you tap them back to pac and use the stock wires from the hu to speakers. Please share how you did this. Thanks. Eric.
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#8
Member
did you attach the amp to anything?
how did you connect the speakers wires that came out of the amplifier to speakers?
I never look forward to wiring speakers, but when I do, I generally run new lines all the way from the amp to the respective speaker, through the wire loom in the door hinge, and into the door. The Molex connectors on these things could make things a little more challenging, and could convince me to just terminate the wire at the door hinge, letting the stock wire take it the rest of the way.
#9
Member
will the remote power power all 3 of those? comeing off the pac?
And I went with the back wall because I love the flat loading floor in the back. The sub is really easy to remove. Just disconnect one pair of wires and out it goes. I'm actually going to put banana plug connectors on there so it is literally plug and play.
#10
This is what I did. I have one line running from my head unit back to my 4-channel amp, and then a small length of speaker wire running from the REM terminal on the 4ch to the subwoofer amp, works perfectly.
I have my REM and power wire running up the drivers' side - speaker signal wires and RCAs run up the passenger side.
I have my REM and power wire running up the drivers' side - speaker signal wires and RCAs run up the passenger side.