Need help with system. JL10TW3-D4, Audison LRX4.5, kicker 400.1
10-22-2016, 12:39 PM
#1
Need help with system. JL10TW3-D4, Audison LRX4.5, kicker 400.1
Need help trying to figure out my audio system for a 2010 f-150. I just bought a JL 10TW3-D4 dual 4 ohm voice coil sub. Current system is base radio with sync, no sony.
From previous sound systems I have the following amps:
Kicker 400.1 – class D, 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, 400 RMS @ 2 ohms
Audison LRX 1.1 – class D 420 watts @ 4 ohms, 800W @ 2 ohms, 1090W @ 1 ohm
Audison LRX 4.5 – 75 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms.
I was hoping to use the LRX 1.1 at 4 ohms for power the sub, but I should have done more research because I wanted to power the sub at 4 ohms, but realized I have to use both coils, making it either 2 ohms or 8 ohms (please correct me if I’m wrong). Is there a difference in volume/sound quality/efficiency running at 2 ohms vs 4, or is it mainly negligible unless you’re trying to install a competition sound system? It does however look like my Kicker amp will match the sub perfectly @ 2 ohms.
I wasn’t planning on replacing speakers, but since my girlfriend sold her car with the old LRX 4.5, I might as well while I’m in there. So, questions regarding speakers. For ease and cost effectiveness I would like to just use 2 way or 3 way coax speakers, but if components will sound significantly improved in the front, then maybe I should do that and keep coax in the rear. However I don’t really want to drill holes for tweeters. I would like to keep my speaker budget $200-300. A local store is having a sale on Kenwood KFC-C6894PS for $54 a pair, regularly $120. They’re 6x8s and I think they would be a huge improvement over stock.
Next questions are wiring related.
The only system I’ve ever wired was with an aftermarket deck, replaced speakers with no amp, and had the kicker amp going to a sub- it was straight forward. From what I’ve read I need to get a PAC AOEM FRD-24. It has 2 sets of RCA out and a remote trigger wire. I attached a diagram of how I THINK I need to wire it. The audison amp as a REM IN-OUT port, so I believe I can run the REM wire to turn the 4 channel amp on, then use the output to turn the kicker amp on. As of right now I’m unsure how to get RCAs to the kicker sub amp. Do I get a Y splitter of RCAs, and split them with channel B? Or should I leave my rear speakers un-amped, run one set to the 4 channel, 1 set to the mono? OR do I eliminate the mono amp, run the audison in 3 channel, amp the front speakers at 75W @ 4 ohms, and power the sub with 260 watts of the remaining channel?
Anyways, If I’ve over complicated things and there’s an easier way please let me know.
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From previous sound systems I have the following amps:
Kicker 400.1 – class D, 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, 400 RMS @ 2 ohms
Audison LRX 1.1 – class D 420 watts @ 4 ohms, 800W @ 2 ohms, 1090W @ 1 ohm
Audison LRX 4.5 – 75 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms.
I was hoping to use the LRX 1.1 at 4 ohms for power the sub, but I should have done more research because I wanted to power the sub at 4 ohms, but realized I have to use both coils, making it either 2 ohms or 8 ohms (please correct me if I’m wrong). Is there a difference in volume/sound quality/efficiency running at 2 ohms vs 4, or is it mainly negligible unless you’re trying to install a competition sound system? It does however look like my Kicker amp will match the sub perfectly @ 2 ohms.
I wasn’t planning on replacing speakers, but since my girlfriend sold her car with the old LRX 4.5, I might as well while I’m in there. So, questions regarding speakers. For ease and cost effectiveness I would like to just use 2 way or 3 way coax speakers, but if components will sound significantly improved in the front, then maybe I should do that and keep coax in the rear. However I don’t really want to drill holes for tweeters. I would like to keep my speaker budget $200-300. A local store is having a sale on Kenwood KFC-C6894PS for $54 a pair, regularly $120. They’re 6x8s and I think they would be a huge improvement over stock.
Next questions are wiring related.
The only system I’ve ever wired was with an aftermarket deck, replaced speakers with no amp, and had the kicker amp going to a sub- it was straight forward. From what I’ve read I need to get a PAC AOEM FRD-24. It has 2 sets of RCA out and a remote trigger wire. I attached a diagram of how I THINK I need to wire it. The audison amp as a REM IN-OUT port, so I believe I can run the REM wire to turn the 4 channel amp on, then use the output to turn the kicker amp on. As of right now I’m unsure how to get RCAs to the kicker sub amp. Do I get a Y splitter of RCAs, and split them with channel B? Or should I leave my rear speakers un-amped, run one set to the 4 channel, 1 set to the mono? OR do I eliminate the mono amp, run the audison in 3 channel, amp the front speakers at 75W @ 4 ohms, and power the sub with 260 watts of the remaining channel?
Anyways, If I’ve over complicated things and there’s an easier way please let me know.
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Clubsoda (10-31-2016)
10-28-2016, 08:42 PM
#4
Thanks..basically spent hours researching everything I could and think I have everything figured out. Ordered the pac adaptor & kicker bass **** (didnt have one with my amp), found my old RCAs and just received my sub. Built a cardboard mock up of the custom sub box I'm going to build under my single rear seat that should give me 0.62 cubic feet of space, vs the 0.5 the 10" jl requires. Will also pack it with poly fiber to help with some more space.
Now I'm trying to decide on what speakers. I'm leaning towards alpine type r 6x8s, but the $450 price tag for 4 (tax shipping etc) is more than I realistically want to pay. I am also looking at the alpine type s 6x8s, but after spending time and money on this system I dont want to be left disappointed.
Any input or alternatives to speakers that are around the $300 mark for all 4?
Now I'm trying to decide on what speakers. I'm leaning towards alpine type r 6x8s, but the $450 price tag for 4 (tax shipping etc) is more than I realistically want to pay. I am also looking at the alpine type s 6x8s, but after spending time and money on this system I dont want to be left disappointed.
Any input or alternatives to speakers that are around the $300 mark for all 4?
10-29-2016, 12:11 AM
#5
Senior Member
Would cancel the order on the Kicker Bass ****. It's junk and will introduce distortion into your setup pretty quickly, and smoke a woofer. Look at the PAC LC-1. Modulates voltage on the RCA's, instead of manipulating the bassboost on the amp itself.
I never run a rear stage in any of my vehicles. Throws your imaging off in the front unless you have a nice and pricey processor with very very nice time alignment options to adjust for them. That being said, disconnect the speakers in the rear doors and spend the extra money on some nicer speakers up front.
Personally, since you have the adjustable hi/lo pass filters, I would look into a nice pair of components and run a 2 way active front stage. If you are open to experimenting, you can have a lot of fun here. I run a pair of Silverflute 6.5 wool cone drivers up front, paired with a Vifa/Tymphany 1 inch silk dome in each a pillar. I run them active with 55-60w a piece. LOVE it. Each mid is like $35 shipped, so $70. And the tweets are $15 a piece, so $100 front stage. If not one to play with off brand stuff, but still want to stay 2 way active.... pick up some adapters to take your 6x8 and turn it into a 5.25. Steve Meade/WestCoast Car Audio uses a CNC machine to make some, cheap and very high quality. http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-produc...-to-5-1-4.html After doing that, a nice pair of 5.25 components can be used. Hertz High Energy is my first pick. The 5.25 component kit is ~$200 on amazon.
But if you aren't looking to do that, and just want some simple 6x8's, Rockford's T1 Series 6x8 coaxials are $135 a pair on Amazon. Very nice sounding speakers. HIGHLY recommend purchasing some sound deadener to install with these. Won't take a whole lot, but a couple sq ft inside the door skin can make a big difference with mid-bass reproduction and accuracy.
I never run a rear stage in any of my vehicles. Throws your imaging off in the front unless you have a nice and pricey processor with very very nice time alignment options to adjust for them. That being said, disconnect the speakers in the rear doors and spend the extra money on some nicer speakers up front.
Personally, since you have the adjustable hi/lo pass filters, I would look into a nice pair of components and run a 2 way active front stage. If you are open to experimenting, you can have a lot of fun here. I run a pair of Silverflute 6.5 wool cone drivers up front, paired with a Vifa/Tymphany 1 inch silk dome in each a pillar. I run them active with 55-60w a piece. LOVE it. Each mid is like $35 shipped, so $70. And the tweets are $15 a piece, so $100 front stage. If not one to play with off brand stuff, but still want to stay 2 way active.... pick up some adapters to take your 6x8 and turn it into a 5.25. Steve Meade/WestCoast Car Audio uses a CNC machine to make some, cheap and very high quality. http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-produc...-to-5-1-4.html After doing that, a nice pair of 5.25 components can be used. Hertz High Energy is my first pick. The 5.25 component kit is ~$200 on amazon.
But if you aren't looking to do that, and just want some simple 6x8's, Rockford's T1 Series 6x8 coaxials are $135 a pair on Amazon. Very nice sounding speakers. HIGHLY recommend purchasing some sound deadener to install with these. Won't take a whole lot, but a couple sq ft inside the door skin can make a big difference with mid-bass reproduction and accuracy.
10-29-2016, 10:26 AM
#6
Would cancel the order on the Kicker Bass ****. It's junk and will introduce distortion into your setup pretty quickly, and smoke a woofer. Look at the PAC LC-1. Modulates voltage on the RCA's, instead of manipulating the bassboost on the amp itself.
I never run a rear stage in any of my vehicles. Throws your imaging off in the front unless you have a nice and pricey processor with very very nice time alignment options to adjust for them. That being said, disconnect the speakers in the rear doors and spend the extra money on some nicer speakers up front.
Personally, since you have the adjustable hi/lo pass filters, I would look into a nice pair of components and run a 2 way active front stage. If you are open to experimenting, you can have a lot of fun here. I run a pair of Silverflute 6.5 wool cone drivers up front, paired with a Vifa/Tymphany 1 inch silk dome in each a pillar. I run them active with 55-60w a piece. LOVE it. Each mid is like $35 shipped, so $70. And the tweets are $15 a piece, so $100 front stage. If not one to play with off brand stuff, but still want to stay 2 way active.... pick up some adapters to take your 6x8 and turn it into a 5.25. Steve Meade/WestCoast Car Audio uses a CNC machine to make some, cheap and very high quality. http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-produc...-to-5-1-4.html After doing that, a nice pair of 5.25 components can be used. Hertz High Energy is my first pick. The 5.25 component kit is ~$200 on amazon.
But if you aren't looking to do that, and just want some simple 6x8's, Rockford's T1 Series 6x8 coaxials are $135 a pair on Amazon. Very nice sounding speakers. HIGHLY recommend purchasing some sound deadener to install with these. Won't take a whole lot, but a couple sq ft inside the door skin can make a big difference with mid-bass reproduction and accuracy.
I never run a rear stage in any of my vehicles. Throws your imaging off in the front unless you have a nice and pricey processor with very very nice time alignment options to adjust for them. That being said, disconnect the speakers in the rear doors and spend the extra money on some nicer speakers up front.
Personally, since you have the adjustable hi/lo pass filters, I would look into a nice pair of components and run a 2 way active front stage. If you are open to experimenting, you can have a lot of fun here. I run a pair of Silverflute 6.5 wool cone drivers up front, paired with a Vifa/Tymphany 1 inch silk dome in each a pillar. I run them active with 55-60w a piece. LOVE it. Each mid is like $35 shipped, so $70. And the tweets are $15 a piece, so $100 front stage. If not one to play with off brand stuff, but still want to stay 2 way active.... pick up some adapters to take your 6x8 and turn it into a 5.25. Steve Meade/WestCoast Car Audio uses a CNC machine to make some, cheap and very high quality. http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-produc...-to-5-1-4.html After doing that, a nice pair of 5.25 components can be used. Hertz High Energy is my first pick. The 5.25 component kit is ~$200 on amazon.
But if you aren't looking to do that, and just want some simple 6x8's, Rockford's T1 Series 6x8 coaxials are $135 a pair on Amazon. Very nice sounding speakers. HIGHLY recommend purchasing some sound deadener to install with these. Won't take a whole lot, but a couple sq ft inside the door skin can make a big difference with mid-bass reproduction and accuracy.
I was trying to keep it simple by installing some new 6x8s and powering them by tapping into existing speaker wire; but maybe I will complete a rough-in for the amp, rcas,etc for speakers at a later date when I have time, and get the sub installed first. You think it would be worth disconnecting the rear speakers vs leaving them stock/set of 6x8 coax?
Today I'm heading out to home depot to get some MDF, PL premium, and all the other miscellaneous bits and pieces I need to build the box. I spent hours looking at different designs and couldn't find any that fit flush with the single rear seat. I made a template of cardboard that follows the contours of the seat, leaving me with the outside dimensions of 20" L x 13" H, 5" W @ rear, to 9" at the front. Im planning on doing some cut slots in the top piece of MDF, allowing a bend to follow the exact contour of the seat.
My mission today is to figure out how much room to leave behind the sub internally (shows mounting depth of 3.25", so I'm thinking 3.5" internally should be fine) and to decide how far to space it off the floor, so the sub does not come into contact w/ the carpet. The total dimension of the sub is 11 CM, approx 4.4", and the specs show the one-way linear excursion (xmax) is 0.6 in (im interpreting this as the speaker can move 0.6" further out than its current resting place) which would lead me to 5.0" clearance between the floor and the internal top side of the box.
Here are some pics of my mock up, ignore the crappy tape job lol. In the side view pic, the tape is peeling so it doesn't show the exact curvature of the enclosure.
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10-30-2016, 07:20 PM
#7
Senior Member
Leaving vs disconnecting the rear is something that you'll just have to play with and see. If you do a fairly powerful front stage, you might not even notice that they are playing. It all just depends. I turned off my factory speakers in my headunit, and maybe disconnected them in the rear doors too I can't remember. I didn't hear them at all, except for at low volume levels. At the lower levels, it just gave me a headache from having sounds coming from all different directions at different times. It's a case by case thing really. You may not even notice it.
Enclosure idea sounds very nice. And the kerfing idea! Brilliant. I would do 1.25" spacing off the floor. That gives about 3/4" of play after the excursion of the sub and the mounting of the basket/gasket.
Stoked to see you make some progress on it.
Enclosure idea sounds very nice. And the kerfing idea! Brilliant. I would do 1.25" spacing off the floor. That gives about 3/4" of play after the excursion of the sub and the mounting of the basket/gasket.
Stoked to see you make some progress on it.
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Clubsoda (10-31-2016)
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10-31-2016, 09:40 PM
#8
Made some good progress on the box this weekend. Took quite a few hours between planning, shopping, driving and then cutting and assembling. Pretty happy with it too as its only my first sub box. I went to a local store aswell and listened to some Hertz HCX 165 6.5s and they sounded phenomenal. They were $300 for the pair, so I'll wait until a set goes on sale somewhere.
Heres some pics of the box, got the kerfed area filled with epoxy for the strength. Not sure what im going to do to finish it yet. I normally have my rubber mat instead of carpet (took it out to fit) so I think carpet will stand out. I might find some sort of rubberized spray paint, or bedliner.
Wont be making any more progress until next weekend as I work out of town mon-fri
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Heres some pics of the box, got the kerfed area filled with epoxy for the strength. Not sure what im going to do to finish it yet. I normally have my rubber mat instead of carpet (took it out to fit) so I think carpet will stand out. I might find some sort of rubberized spray paint, or bedliner.
Wont be making any more progress until next weekend as I work out of town mon-fri
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10-31-2016, 10:42 PM
#9
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
Hell of a great start...
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Clubsoda (10-31-2016)
