boom50cal

That little PBR will work wonderfully!

Love that trend of amps, small form factor and efficient.

Are you looking for a nice wiring kit and RCA's?
If you have facebook, send the guys at SkyHigh Car Audio a message, tell him your truck and the approximate length of cable you will need to get back to where you're mounting the amps. I'm betting all you will need is a single 4ga OFC run, a few fuse holders, some 8ga for each amp, a 4 channel and 2 channel RCA, and some primary turn on wire. Jon Rabe is a super awesome guy, and he'll treat you nice with a good deal. Or just go through his website http://skyhighcaraudio.com

Nice equipment, should sound pretty great.

Kommander

Thanks. I will look them up. It will be 2 months before I can order. I just dropped 2500 on OEM HID's and XB Fogs so I have to pay down my Discover card for that first. That illumination thread will be coming soon.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Now you are cookin'

Vandy32

I have the same truck. With the sub your main problem is gonna be space, or rather the lack of it in back. The only place for a sub and amp is under the back seat. I found a jl 10 inch sub that came with its own sealed box that fit perfectly. I just got 1 and mated it with a 300 watt alpine amp. It hits hard for 1 10 inch sealed sub. If I wanted I could get another and run it off the same amp for 500watts rms but I really don't even need it.

The main problem with installation is gonna be the molex plus in the doors. Either you gotta drill through them or find the speaker wire and just splice into it. I just spliced in and have been running 125 watts rms with no problems to my front doors for about a year.

Also the basic stock system dies have tweeters. If you use existing wiring you can just reach up under the dash and they have a little molex plug you can just unhook.

Good luck. It's worth it. The stock audio was very poor, now I get compliments from everyone that rides in my truck and riding in most other friends vehicles reminds me that it's worth the effort of doing it right.

lilspeedy626

Ditch the rattle trap and get a different sound deadening. Stinger has a good sound deading. 36sq ft should be plenty for all 4 doors.

Kommander

I would be interested in the sub model # and such. I can do a seperate amp, its no problem. I don't need bass like rap music has, I don't listen to that. I like the portability of the powered sub but I am not dead set on it. I admit, an 8" sub does not instill confidence. My old jetta had 2 - 12" Kicker VR Comps in a custom built enclosure and 2 Fosgate Punch 700 amps with 2 - 1 Farad caps running 0 ga from an Optima yellow top. I like power. So, do you have a thread with pics I can look at?

Also, what is the molex plus in the doors? I am not familiar with that terminology.

Kommander

Ok, new cart. Just fine tuning and taking in ya'lls advice. Decided to change the door speakers. Keeping it RF, told you I was a fanboi. lol


Sound Dampening Installation Kit
Stinger Roadkill Expert Sound Damping Door Kit 12-Foot x 4
iDatalink Connect ADS-HRN(SR)-FOR01 Factory Integration Adapter
METRA 40-CR10 2002 & Up Chrysler Antenna to Radio Adapter
Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
Rockville Black Metal IR Night Vision License Plate Backup Camera
Scosche Dash Kit for 2009 Ford F-150 Din with Pocket or Double Din
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Factory Integration Adapter
Rockford Fosgate Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Ch Amp
Rockford Fosgate P1683 6x8" 260 Watt 3 Way Coaxial Speakers x 4
PIONEER AVH-X4800BS 7" Motorized DVD Receiver

I left the powered sub off for now until I feel solid about it, but it is still in the Cart. The more I look at this setup I think the doors might give it a run for its money as far as bass goes so I might want to up the sub game or take it out completely.

Question. From the HU I can run rca's to the amp. DO I need to run spearker wire to all the doors from the amp or can I run it back to the factory harness behind the HU and tie it into the iDatalink Harness?

Kommander

One more thing. Above the hazard lights in my STX there is the current radio display. I notice that does not get replaced with the Scosche kit. What will it display once the radio has been replaced?

Vandy32

I have image dynamics chameleon 62 (6 inch 2 ohm) component speakers in the front doors. (I don't have the back doors even hooked up.) They are powered by a two channel arc amp. I forget the exact model. But it puts out 125 watts rms. I have that 10" jl sub that came with its sealed box runing off a mono amp at 300 watts rms. I kept the factory head unit in so I didn't have to mess with the sync and for theft prevention. The problem with my setup is that I ran all the speaker wires to line in for the mono amp,then I ran rcas from the mono amp to the 2 channel amp. It appears as tho only the front speakers get full freq range because the sound is very different if I fade all the way to the back or all the way to the front. Also I believe the oem HU rolls off the bass as you increase volume. It just took a little extra tuning but it sounds really good once i got it dialed in.

I will look up the exact model for the 10" sub/box when I get home from work. Honestly if you had 2 of them in there with 500watts rms I think you will have plenty of power and good quality sound. As I said 1 of them is enough for me, but I also have more power going to my mid bass woofers so there may be a trade off. Separate sub/box and amps are going to be much better than a powered sub.

If you are installing an aftermarket HU then it should have at least one set of rca outputs to run to an amp. And I did exactly what you suggest to get by the molex plugs in the doors. I ran the speaker wire back to the head unit and then spliced into the oem speaker wires. Although it probably means I have a little smaller speaker wire than I should, you shouldn't have any problems at 75watts.

Vandy32

The molex plugs are like plastic connectors for wires. Instead of having a hole in the frame and in the door with a rubber grommet you have a coil of wires threaded into a plastic plug that connects to its receiver in the door. Basically it plugs up the hole you need with plastic and wires.