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(mono amp to sub) plus (4 channel amp to speakers) wiring diagram.

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Old 03-29-2012, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Hogan
this is my 4 channel amp. rms power is 60w x 4 channels at 4 ohms.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-KAC-8405.html

these are my speakers. 65w rms each.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ate-P1683.html

and this is the deck
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...d-DPX308U.html
Okay good, your amp will push your door speakers near optimal level. An easy fix would be to run your rear channel on the HU to the Sub amp. Then use the pass through on that amp to go to the rear speakers. Your amp should have seperate gain and filters for each channel so that you can tune down the rears so they are pushing the same frequenices as the subs. Mainly the rears are just for filling.
Old 03-29-2012, 12:08 AM
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so you mean i could use the pass thru from the mono sub amp, and use rca's to go from the mono pass thru into the 4 channel rear input rca's?

thanks ibd2328 for your help so far.

I really dont want to have to return the HU because of the hassle it would be to ship it back, and i got it for a good deal.
Old 03-29-2012, 12:44 AM
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Easy two options. HU runs the rears or use the pass through on either amp..
Old 03-29-2012, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by asutrent
Easy two options. HU runs the rears or use the pass through on either amp..

ok maybe im just not getting this concept for some reason, my question now is, can i use the pass through on the mono sub amp and go straight into the 4 channel?

this would mean no y splitters. I dont think the 4 channel has a pass thru.

But when the HU is set for a subwoofer output, the pass thru signal wont be beneficial to go into a 4 channel for the speakers. thats my take on it anyway. am i retarded?
Old 03-29-2012, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by asutrent
Easy two options. HU runs the rears or use the pass through on either amp..
Perfect answer. And yes you can use the pass through on the sub amp to send a low pass signal via RCA's to the rear channel on the 4 channel amp. Just make sure you set the crossovers accordingly on the rear 4 channel amp.

like asutrent said you may be better suited to run the rears off the HU to keep the fader controls. This may very well sound better since most of the phasing and "effect" will be from the front speakers. Your subs will hit the lower frequencies "30-80hz" so the rears will actually just be for filling .

Let us know what you decide.
Old 03-29-2012, 01:39 AM
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Thanks a lot for the help guys, i will post some pics up after the install if i get all of my stuff shipped to me before the end of the week, otherwise next week i will have an update.

Ive come to the conclusion to go from the rear HU outputs to the mono sub amp, then use the pass thru to the 4 channel rear inputs. the front outputs on the HU will go direct to the front inputs on the 4 channel. i really want to make use of the fact i bought a 4 channel amp which is why i think i want to go with the pass thru option to the 4 channel rather than powering the rears directly off the HU.

this is the new wiring plan.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ibd2328
I wouldnt advise running a sole tweeter off an outboard amp alone. Note: Usually the higher end comps have external crossovers when so the power supply is sent to inducers for the tweeters and small caps for the woofers.

Typically tweeters max out at about 10-15 rms. It would be kind of pointless to amp them when the only frequenices they play are from about 2k and up.

If you decide to go that route I would run the tweeters off the headunit. But I dont advise any of that.

What type of amp are you running? Whats the rms rating on the coaxs

What are you talking about? Its called running "active" Runing actives gives you so much more flexability when tuning!! I'm running 50watts RMS to my 15 year old a/d/s tweeters with their own dedicated amp channel n my commuter car. Most Amps have a 10X multiplier on the internal crossover section which allows to crossover the tweeter seperatly. I also put a capacitor in line with the tweeter with a value below the choosen electronic crossoer point for saftey measuers INCASE someone messes with the amp...or for DC pops.

where do you get your 10-15RMs specs from anywhere??



these are the tweeters i'm running in the truck with 75 watts RMS to them..and thats 1/2 of what they call for....

http://www.hybrid-audio.com/document..._Pro_L1_SE.pdf

Last edited by TimelessR1; 03-29-2012 at 09:32 AM.
Old 03-29-2012, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TimelessR1
What are you talking about? Its called running "active" Runing actives gives you so much more flexability when tuning!! I'm running 50watts RMS to my 15 year old a/d/s tweeters with their own dedicated amp channel n my commuter car. Most Amps have a 10X multiplier on the internal crossover section which allows to crossover the tweeter seperatly. I also put a capacitor in line with the tweeter with a value below the choosen electronic crossoer point for saftey measuers INCASE someone messes with the amp...or for DC pops.

where do you get your 10-15RMs specs from anywhere??



these are the tweeters i'm running in the truck with 75 watts RMS to them..and thats 1/2 of what they call for....

http://www.hybrid-audio.com/document..._Pro_L1_SE.pdf
Because you are running them "active" most people dont do that. Your frequencies are already split before amplification. So you have a clear super high frequency that doesn't require much power to produce.


And if you are running 75 watts to a "Single Sole" tweeter that is just dumb. The frequencies they play don't take much power at all to produce. Over that is pretty much just over kill.

Sure if you are using the external crossover you can, but the woofer is recieving most of the power via the inducer.

I am running Focal K2 P's and my tweeter is rated at 15 rms and has no problem prouducing ear piercing highs. The slope is 2nd order 12db /Oct. at around 3500 Hz.
Old 03-29-2012, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hogan
Thanks a lot for the help guys, i will post some pics up after the install if i get all of my stuff shipped to me before the end of the week, otherwise next week i will have an update.

Ive come to the conclusion to go from the rear HU outputs to the mono sub amp, then use the pass thru to the 4 channel rear inputs. the front outputs on the HU will go direct to the front inputs on the 4 channel. i really want to make use of the fact i bought a 4 channel amp which is why i think i want to go with the pass thru option to the 4 channel rather than powering the rears directly off the HU.

this is the new wiring plan.
looks good to me! the only thing you will have issues with is messing with the HU sub out control (if there is one) when you turn this up it will turn the rears up to... I would actually try it this way and try running the rears off the head unit.. I would be surprised if you noticed a difference from the front seat.
Old 03-29-2012, 02:40 PM
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Has anyone mentioned to return the HU for a different one...??


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