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Looking for power wire info, specifically stock locations in a 01 SCab

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Old 04-06-2011, 04:07 PM
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Default Looking for power wire info, specifically stock locations in a 01 SCab

I'm thinking about temporarily installing a kicker 'bass tube' sub unit until I can pull my system from my old car and install it, but I need some info on the stock wiring before I go after it.

The 'tube' has an on-board amp and needs a power source and line-level input sources. The wire harness has 10 or 12 awg (leaning towards 12) wire on the power leads, so I assume the amp is pretty small. I really don't want to pull everything to run power wire for this just to have to do it over again with speaker wires and RCA cables later, so i'd like to tap a factory source if it's possible.

So, whats the safest, easiest way to make this happen in an 01 SCab?
Old 04-06-2011, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cody6766
The 'tube' has an on-board amp and needs a power source and line-level input sources. The wire harness has 10 or 12 awg (leaning towards 12) wire on the power leads, so I assume the amp is pretty small. I really don't want to pull everything to run power wire for this just to have to do it over again with speaker wires and RCA cables later, so i'd like to tap a factory source if it's possible.

So, whats the safest, easiest way to make this happen in an 01 SCab?
So, all you need is a power wire and speaker wire? It doesn't need a remote wire or RCA's? Also, do you have an aftermarket head unit, or factory?
Old 04-06-2011, 11:00 PM
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I would guess factory. You need a line out convertor and tap into one or both of the rear speakers I don't remember. This will allow you to get power to the convertor from the speakers and give your amp the signal and remote turn on. From this convertor is where you will run your rcas and remote wire from then just power with a fuse from the battery and ground as usual. If aftermarket run rcas and remote as usual
Old 04-07-2011, 09:38 AM
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He doesnt need and LOC, it has line level inputs already to tap into his speaker wires. Usually these type of built in bass tube amps will sense a signal through line level inputs and turn on, there is a slight delay when system is first turned on.

As for your power source, just run a wire with inline fuse from battery under the truck and enter the cab by the back, nothing fancy and will only take a few minutes then you can easily take it out when you install your other stuff.
Old 04-07-2011, 01:37 PM
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The tube has high level inputs and RCA inputs on the onboard amp. It's designed to be a quick and easy plug and play addition. I want to avoid running power wire from the batt. back for now. I'd have to pull it from my GTP to wire the truck and I just don't want to put that kind of work in now. If I did that I'd go ahead and swap the deck, mount the amps, build the kick panels and finish my real install. I just wanted this to be a quick and dirty, 15 min install. I'll hold off on it if it's going to be much more involved than that. it's really just a way to add to the system with something I had sitting in the garage.

I'm not sure how much current the amp pulls, but it's not much. If there's a good, modest sized, power wire back there then I would feel perfectly comfortable tapping it.

Oh, I'm no car audio newbie, just a F150 newbie. Hopefully that makes explaining my options a little easier for you guys.

Thanks again!
Old 04-07-2011, 08:22 PM
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Power sliding window? I know in 2010 the harness is there even if you dont have the motor or slider but the harness with power is there. Not sure in 01 though.
Old 04-07-2011, 08:53 PM
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Nope, no power sliding window. The truck is a 4x4 Lariat with the regular stereo, if that helps at all.
Old 04-07-2011, 09:26 PM
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I meant that you may have the plug behind the rear seat even though you dont have it and if you do then there should be a power wire there. With 10 they ran the harness there but I have no slider and it just sits there.
Old 04-10-2011, 11:27 AM
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Got ya, that may be something worth looking into. Thanks for the tip
Old 04-10-2011, 12:09 PM
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you could grab power at the back of the fuse block above the drivers kick. I wouldn't bother half assing it though. run your wires for a real amp now and save yourself the trouble later on.


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