kevint1022

Alright crutch field recommends 4 gauge from what I can tell. Will that run fine or not be as efficient?

JoeBoost

Single 400w amp 4ga is fine.

While it can be argued (4ga vs 0ga) if you think you might add a second amp down the road then IMO run 0ga now and get it over with.

kevint1022

Thanks for all the info!

Guinness68

Agree with this chart?


(To determine the approximate current draw (in amperes) of your amplifier (or amplifiers), you must calculate first the total power of each amp (multiply the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Next, double your grand total power figure. Then, divide by 13.8.)

According to the above chart, I should be 8ga; but I chose 4ga to the dist. block then 8ga out from there. Same with ground.

JoeBoost

While technically correct I dont agree with it and this is one of those areas that causes allot of debate. For me its all about efficiency. Wire gauge, length, connections, fuses, etc that make up the power loop introduces resistance, loss, and voltage drop that your amp sees. I want to minimize this so stepping down to a heavier gauge wire make sense. Sure 8ga will work for 400-500w amps but I would rather have my amps drinking from the fire hose and not the straw.

Funny thing happened to a buddy the other day. He blew the stock alternator in his Z06 (180amp/40amp @idle or something close to that). He has a nice system in it - 1800w of top of the line JL HD amps/speakers/subs. I talked him into a Mechman 275amp/165 idle alt. After installing it he started complaining that his system was messed up - sounded muddy, distorted,etc when turned up. Took a look at it and we backed his gains down a bit. With the old alt there wasn't adequate power for the efficient class Ds to perform at their potential so the gains were set pretty high. Sure it worked fine for months like that and he wouldn't have known any better. With the new alt the system was getting the power it needed and it really allowed those amps to breath. He already had 0ga - cheap/easy install given the batt is 3' from the amps.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

That chart can be a very useful guideline, but alot depends on the type of wire, strand size, and which metals it is made of.

For instance, some of Raptors and Scoshce kits use aluminum coated copper. Its cheaper for them to produce, and is classified as 4 AWG by diameter. However, its conductivity and amperes rating is no where near what a true copper 4 AWG wire should be. Typically, I tend to recommend Tsunami/Rockford/JL amp kits. I personally use mining/welding cable because its fairly abundant here in southern, VA.

I took a picture to kind of give everyone an idea of what to look for. Notice how small the strands are in the raptor wire. Also notice the silver/aluminum look. I would try to shy away from using wire that is not pure copper, aluminum creates alot more resistance and allows less current to get to your amp.


Always check the wire for;
True Diameter (AWG Sizes) not including insulation.
Types of metal/metals used in he wire.
Stand size - imo thicker is better.

JoeBoost

I like that mining wire...how does it bend? Is it a bitch to work with? How much a foot? I need to wire in my second battery and need about 25'.

Thanks!

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

It actually bends better than most audio wire i've dealt with. It's rated up to 600V and 500amps. They use it in the mine to run a 440V roof-bolter with a 3-phase cat-head. It's constantly submerged in water, and ran over by shuttle/scoops and the insulation holds up very good.

I actually used it for all my amps, big 3, and my extra battery. I could get you some for about $3.00/ft Much, much cheaper than audio shops and better quality(imo).

Here's part of the thread, where I installed an extra battery. Let me know if you need some more pics or specs. I'd be more than happy to pick soem up and ship it to ya.
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/extra-b...e-sort-153101/

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Heres my audio build and big 3. Should be quite a few pics of that mining wire in comparison to the factory wire. Also, the insulation doesn't burn like typical rubber coatings. You can lay it on your manifold or headers and it will resist heat all day long. So no need for that cheap looking plastic corrugated tubing, which is way way over priced.

https://www.f150forum.com/f78/build-...4-5-4l-149492/

kevint1022

Is Kicker a reputable brand whenever it comes to the 4 gauge amp kit?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFK4...ate-RFK4X.html