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How do I get wires past the molex connectors in the front?

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Old 05-08-2013, 09:07 PM
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Default How do I get wires past the molex connectors in the front?

Title says it all. I need to run a new set of speaker wires to my passenger front side speaker and need to figure out a way to get the wire from behind my head unit to the speaker.

I keep on getting static and some cutting out on that speaker and the only place that I can think of now is there is a poor connection in that molex connector for my speakers in that door. I've already bypassed the factory plug behind the head unit (where it connects to my Maestro unit plug) so I've eliminated that point...so only other place I can think of is at that molex connector between the cab and door.

Was hoping it was the factory head unit so I replaced it with a Kenwood 690HD, Maestro unit, and satellite tuner to the tune of $1200 and it's still doing it. Weird thing is that it seems to only give me problems when it's warm out....

Please give me some ideas guys...this is driving me nuts!
Old 05-08-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Largefarva
Title says it all. I need to run a new set of speaker wires to my passenger front side speaker and need to figure out a way to get the wire from behind my head unit to the speaker.

I keep on getting static and some cutting out on that speaker and the only place that I can think of now is there is a poor connection in that molex connector for my speakers in that door. I've already bypassed the factory plug behind the head unit (where it connects to my Maestro unit plug) so I've eliminated that point...so only other place I can think of is at that molex connector between the cab and door.

Was hoping it was the factory head unit so I replaced it with a Kenwood 690HD, Maestro unit, and satellite tuner to the tune of $1200 and it's still doing it. Weird thing is that it seems to only give me problems when it's warm out....

Please give me some ideas guys...this is driving me nuts!
You can drill a hole in the plastic along side of the factory wires. There is a good picture somewhere on this forum. Use the search.
Old 05-08-2013, 09:56 PM
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I've searched here and can't find the thread you're referring to. I'm wondering how I would be able to get a drill in there? It's a really tight space between the cab and the door. And what would I have to worry about hitting on the inside of the cab?
Old 05-08-2013, 10:42 PM
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Belushi helped me by posting these when I was working on mine. Hope that helps. And I found it easiest to open the door all the way and there's enough clearance to get a drill bit in there from the outside
Attached Thumbnails How do I get wires past the molex connectors in the front?-image-3591174065.jpg   How do I get wires past the molex connectors in the front?-image-3473380731.jpg  
Old 05-09-2013, 06:56 AM
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Thanks for those pics. Looks like that's going to be the easiest way of doing it. I unplugged the connector last night before I created this thread, and thought to myself, "there's no way I'm gonna be able to drill a hole in this thing". I didn't even think about looking at the spaces to the side like in those pics.

I haven't started taking anything apart yet...but I'm wondering if there is anything directly behind that part of the molex connector that I have to worry about hitting. And how easy is it to get your hand back in there to fish out the speaker wire once you start feeding it through? I'm assuming I will just have to figure out how to get that plastic moulding off and I'll have access to back there...right?

Oh yeah....did you bother sealing (using duct seal or similar) around the speaker wire once you got everything in place. Or is moisture and such not a problem?
Old 05-09-2013, 09:02 AM
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Those are the pictures I was referring to. Looks tight but you could always put some silicone over the hole
Old 05-09-2013, 09:23 AM
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Wow, didn't even think about going through the door like that when I did mine 2 weeks ago. I unplugged mine and actually twisted the connector out so it was free. Then grabbed it with my hand to twist it facing me and then drilled it while holding onto it.

These connectors are a total PITA .

At least the rears there's holes large enough for wires already there.
Old 05-09-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Largefarva
I haven't started taking anything apart yet...but I'm wondering if there is anything directly behind that part of the molex connector that I have to worry about hitting. And how easy is it to get your hand back in there to fish out the speaker wire once you start feeding it through? I'm assuming I will just have to figure out how to get that plastic moulding off and I'll have access to back there...right?

Oh yeah....did you bother sealing (using duct seal or similar) around the speaker wire once you got everything in place. Or is moisture and such not a problem?
As long as you dont jam the drill bit way in once you poke through, you'll be fine. The connector looks the same on the other side, so there at least 1/2" on the back side before he drill bit is even out the other side of the connector to hit something.

As for fishing the line out, thats a pain as well.
On the driver's side I pushed the emergency brake down as far as I could and removed the ground strap that's down there to get my fat hands in there.
On the passenger side I removed whatever control module was down there.
Old 05-09-2013, 10:07 AM
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Yea fishing the wire was def the hardest part, passenger side was a real pain.
Old 05-09-2013, 04:14 PM
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Thanks for all the great info, guys. If I decide to go through with it, this thread will be a big help.

So far today everything has been ok with the speaker. I'm wondering if me pulling the outer plug off last night to look at it and then re-seating it fixed the problem. But then again, today wasn't as warm out as the last few days. It won't approach 80F again until I think Tuesday next week. So when that happens I'll know for sure if it's going to be ok...or if I have to break out my drill to fix this. Part of me wants to go ahead and do it, but then part of me dreads drilling through that plastic in case I need warranty work done later on.


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