06F150CFCT

Alright here is the deal....I am beyond confused researching about adding an amp (with 1, maybe 2 subs) to my factory Sync/Sony system with Nav. There is so much conflicting posts and people with slightly different issues. So if anyone can help dumb this down for me that would be greatly appreciated!

I see I can't use a PAC AOEM-FRD24...after getting through 10 pages of that thread....or can I? Did i miss some new breakthrough?

It appears my options are to use a LOC, like a PAC SNI-35, or tap directory into the factory sub wires. Maybe a LC2i? Although that says it has 2 channels but I only need 1 for my subs. Is this correct? What's the best option?

So now I have a question that involves components. If I want to use a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D amp which has an RMS of 500w @ 2ohms, is it a sufficient option to power 1 or 2 Rockford Fosgate P3DS4-12 DVC 4ohm (I would get the 2ohm one if I just go with 1 sub) that are rated at 400w RMS and 800w max a piece?? My issue is I don't want to run into headlight dimming or blowing out my alternator or battery so I figure keeping it around 500w RMS is safer. However, I don't know if this is severely underpowering 2 of those subs. From what I have read, ideally I want an amp rated at 800w RMS but that seems like I am going to start running into issues with the headlights dimming without doing the big 3 upgrade or upgrading my battery and alternator. I have no problem getting a 1000w amp but only if it won't cause issues. I do have the 6.2 motor with max tow/max pay so I may have a bigger alt to start with? Not sure...I'd have to look.

Any opinions on other combos of subs/amps is welcome but I'm not trying to pay for the JL's or Sundown subs. I don't need a ridiculous system, I'm just looking for a budget friendly upgrade wit some thump. Looking to spend around $400-$600 total for box, amp, sub(s), 4 gauge wiring, and LOC (if necessary).

Sorry for the novel and I would appreciate any help/input. I know this topic has been beaten to death but I can't find what I need to know by searching here. Thanks guys and gals!!

Gremlin85

I went through many threads, posts and research to figure out exactly what I wanted to do and what could and could not be done. I wanted something simple, cost effective and to sound decent. After a couple weeks of combined research, I eventually settle on a few things.

I wanted a decent aftermarket sub and I wanted to replace my door speakers. All this was just to improve the sound of my Sony System with Nav and to make my music more enjoyable. It's not for competition and it's not the "best sounding system ever" now, but I really enjoy it and am happy with how it all turned out. I also have a du-ha underseat storage bin that I needed to work with - So I found someone who built a box that fits under the rear passenger seat where the stock Sony sub sits. The box is small, but it works with the setup and sounds pretty decent IMHO.

So, my items are this:

• Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote
• Kicker 40CWRT101 CompRT Series 10 inch Subwoofer Dual 1 Ohm
• 2 of Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 6 x 8-Inches Full Range 3-Way Speakers
• 2 of Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP
• KnuKonceptz Red KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit

I had also bought a PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On, but the amp actually has all that built in. So I connected the 4 wires going to the stock sony amp to the new Pioneer amp using it's supplied RCA cables and splicing with Posi-Taps.

I used the thread I found to build a box that fit under the seat where the sony sub is so I could keep my Du-Ha storage bin. I used the template he posted and made it from 3/4" MDF and used Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold for the posts.

This is the exact box I built:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/superc...5/#post3177969

I bought all my materials off Amazon except for the MDF, the screws to builf the box along with wood glue which was all from Home Depot.

Some tips I found that worked bet for me was to use pollyfill in the box to help make the speaker think it's in a larger box. I ran the power wire from the battery under the truck to a round rubber grommet on the passenger side under the rear kick panel. I cut a hole in the factory grommet just large enough to fit the power wire through. This is the ONLY wire I had to run, except the bass boost **** which can be run and mounted anywhere you like - If you choose to use it. I left mine under the rear seat because I tuned the system right where I wanted it. The Pioneer Amp used the wires from the factory sub to get the signal and I used the included RCA cable to convert the signal through the Pioneer amp. It does t automatically AND powers on with the radio automatically without a signal wire. I thought that was pretty badass of this amp.

To tune the amp and sub, I used Ohms Law and a youtube video to get it right. I matched the Amp power to the subwoofer by playing a 60hz sound and using my voltmeter to get the voltage at the speaker outputs of the amp. I set it to about 31v to keep the amp and subwoofer happy. I can go into more detail on this if needed.


I found this to be one of the easiest and cheapest custom setups I could do without getting into those all-in-one powered subs. This I can expand on and change out things as I see fit. It sounds pretty damn good after tuning it to my ear.

Oh and the Metra Speaker harness did not fit over the pins for the new speakers and they were also backwards, so I cut the ends off the adapters and soldered them to the speakers, then just plugged them into the stock harness in the doors. I also Soldered my connections from the pins in the sub box to the subwoofer to make sure they never come loose inside the box.

I have no electrical problems and no dimming of the lights. I am also running the factory battery still. I'll be changing it out for a XS Power D6500 XS Series battery once I can justify the cost lol

Total cost for EVERYTHING was about $400.

06F150CFCT

Gremlin, thanks for taking the time and responding. That info is very helpful. So most of my issue now is just connecting the LOC to the truck somewhere....can you explain a little more in depth how you did it? I saw a video on YouTube of a guy who connected the PAC SNI-35 LOC to the rear speaker wires in the B-pillar. I also saw a video of a guy who took off the factory amp from the sub box and then reinstalled it in the truck with some type of processor but I didn't understand what was going. He said it was the better way to integrate an amp. It sounds a little more similar to what you did since you said you attached your LOC to the factory amp as well and that is where I am confused.

I am going to be getting an amp with the signal sensing turn on as well and agree that it is pretty awesome. Your system sounds very similar to how I want mine to end up. Not an award winning install with pricey components but an above average sounding system that will be better than the Sony one.

Gremlin85

I actually didn't need the LOC either as the amp I purchased converted the signal automatically. I bought a LOC but it wasn't needed after I read the manual of the amp I purchased.

I would double-check on the amps you are looking to purchase to see if you need a LOC or not.

Basically, the Pioneer amp came with an RCA cable to hook up the sub wires to. The image below is what I'm talking about:


I unplugged my stock sony subwoofer and tapped into the 4 wires using posi-taps to hook up that RCA cable. That then plugs into the amp and it does all the hard work for you. The amp gets the signal to turn on through it as well.

If an amp you are looking to buy does not have that feature then use the LOC in the same location at the sub wiring harness. It's a much cleaner signal for subwoofers since it's already going to one.

06F150CFCT

Ahhhhhhh I see now....that's interesting. Could save me the 66 bucks for that LC2i that I was going to get. That has signal sensing turn on itself and then send the turn on feature to the amp. So I didn't have to get an amp that had the signal sensing turn on...since there is only a few...

So where did you find out what colors were what on the sub harness for wiring up this connector/adapter? Also, you didn't have any issues with connecting it at the sub harness? You have full sound and it's powered fully?

Gremlin85

I could have saved myself some money if I did more research on the amp I purchased and avoided the LOC.

I found out which wires to tap into via this thread and post here:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/kicker...8/#post4582968

I have full sound and use of the subwoofer. It fades correctly and I can adjust the bass just like factory since my new subwoofer setup is spliced into the stock subwoofer wiring. It just sounds so much better and hits tons harder now.

06F150CFCT

That's amazing....thanks so much for all your help. I think I have what I need now. I just need to make a final decision on the components...1-12" or 2....500w or 1000w...I'm getting closer so that's good but I'm also impatient.

06F150CFCT

I ended up deciding on a 1 sub system with a 12" Kicker 43CVT122 CompVT 2 ohm with 400w RMS. I got a box that ended up being 26" wide (half the width of the backseat area) and it will go under the rear passenger seat and hang out another 6-7". The amplifier is a Pioneer GM-D8601 that is 500w RMS at 2ohms. I chose this amp because of price ($107 at Amazon with prime) and because it has remote audio sensing turn on which means I don't need a dedicated remote turn on wire. This will be nice when I only need to worry about figuring out where to wire the sub and not the the remote wire too. Finally, I ended up with the KnuConceptz 4gauge wiring kit. I have KnuConceptz for my last 3 vehicles and have never had an issue. I am a creature of habit. Can't wait to get this stuff installed!

Gremlin85

Nice! Very similar to mine!

Heres where and how I set up my sub and the wiring. The signal wires to the factory sub were spliced with the posi-taps and run to that RCA cable that came with the amp. The amp is behind the passenger rear seat attached to the wall with Velcro. I have a picture here of my ground wire which worked out very well - no noise or static. All wires are run away from the power wire which was run under the truck and through a round rubber grommet under the rear passenger kick panel.

Here are a couple pics. Please excuse the dirtiness of the truck as it's been ****ty weather here for a while. It's not bad today so I'll be cleaning it inside and out.

Homemade enclosure:


Posi-Tap Wiring to stock sub harness:


Ground:

06F150CFCT

That's awesome....I appreciate the pics. I was looking for a box just like the one you made...couldn't find one. So you ended up using all 4 wires of the factory sub wiring harness? That's my next step is to figure out which wires go to what...you wouldn't happen to remember which wires go to what on the RCA connector do you?