ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Here are my suggestions. It will put you close to budget, but will be a decent SQ system.

First: A DSP instead of LOC
Before paying outrageous amounts for a LOC with terrible signal quality, I would try to get this DSP or something similar. It will serve as a high quality LOC plus give you digital time alignment, bandwidth selection, and a wide variety of other options. Also the signal quality to your amps(very critical) will be improved exponentially. Various other processor can be had and are overall better with more options, however, this fits the budget and is a great factory integration for the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALPINE-P...#ht_1779wt_905


Second: 4-channel amp for the doors.
To power the components/coaxs I suggest this 24db/octave amp. Its an AB class amp but with BD class efficiency. Its not as efficient at conserving power like a PDX alpine amp(class D) but will offer a tad bit more clarity than a typical class D. The PDX's are very power friendly amps and can put out lots of power while keeping current draw to a minimum. But for the speakers you currently have, no need for 150x4. Hence, the suggestion for the AB class Rockford for both clarity and efficiency. Note: the ratings are 60 rms x 4, but actual output is more like 80 x 4. Putting you around optimal range for the SPR coaxs.

http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_675F...0-4.html?cc=01

If more power is needed... but its a hunk of change. (Great amp also)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXF...ne-PDX-F4.html

I will need some more info before suggesting subs, box, and sub amp. Alot of this depends on where the subs will be. This will put limitation on mounting depth, ft^3 of air space, and other variables. Once you can tell us where the subs will be going and and your options for a box (custom build, or manufactured) then we can discuss subs along with a matching amp.

JoeBoost

Looks good so far.

Tell me about it. I like the form factor and efficiency of the high end Alpine and JL amps - tons of power in a small package.

Here is something to think about - the winning SQ car at Spring Break Nationals had 6 JL HD 750 mono blocks - 1 for every speaker in the car..thats sexy in a car audio kinda way.

SilverBulletGT

Very nice thank you. I will be putting the subs under the rear seat.

SilverBulletGT

I just got my alpine 6x8s and installed them. They sound better but at higher volume there is a lot of crackling and distortion. Is this because of the lack of power or faulty speakers?

SilverBulletGT

Anyone?

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

I had some older alpine type R 6x8's and they crackled and crunched until I amped them... You could have a faulty connection if one sounds worse then the other, but if they both sound evenly crackled and crunched then you will need an amp to enjoy those speakers...

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

I had the type R 6x8's as well, but had no issues with them. It's more than likely your head unit-amp is creating the clipping and distortion from trying to produce more power that its capable of(making it unclean). If you can turn the volume down to a decent db rating and their is no distortion, then thats your problem. If you want optimal sound at very high volume levels, add a 4-channel amp.

Clean power is always the best option. Match your speakers up with the proper amps to get the best out of both of them. A 150watt speaker can't produce any better sound with 10watts powering it, than a 10 watt speaker with 10watts of power(within reason). Its all about cross-referencing the needs and output of both to find that optimal region they perform best at.

However, if you dont want to add an amp, I would think those speakers would sound fine at your normal everyday leisure volume. If you hear distortion; either turn the volume down or add more power to them(outboard amp).

SilverBulletGT

Thanks. The passenger side door sounds terrible so maye it the connection.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

These were the older type R speakers from about 7 years ago when that happened... From what I heard back then, they were notorious for that crunchy crackle when underpowered... The newer type R's are not as prone to this condition from my understanding...
When I pulled the speakers out of the doors of my dodge ram last year, there was an audible scraping sound when I manually depressed the woofer by hand, hence why I replaced them. They also had a huge magnet back then that required them to be furred out with weatherstripping to keep them from scraping my glass when the window was down, and then more weatherstripping on the front to keep them from kissing the door panel.

JoeBoost

+1 You need to amp 'em before you break 'em...