CobraO

I'm about to attempt an install of a JL Audio CleanSweep into a 2011 FX4 with the Sony Nav / Amp / Sub.

Here are two wiring diagrams that I believe show two channels (RF and LF) going from the HU to the DSP/AMP. Out of the DSP comes all of the speakers except the subwoffer.

The CS needs full frequency inputs that I read can be either low level, or speaker level. I'm wondering if it would be better to connect the two low level from the head unit, or the four (LF, LR, RF, RR) coming out of the amp, not using the tweeters or center channel.

kmaximus

I just completed the same install, I haven't had time to do my write up yet, but I'll offer my documentation/experiences to help you on your way.

the attached diagram shows the layout I used for the cleansweep including which speaker connections I used....

Staring out I used:
A - Front Tweeters
B - Front Door Mid Ranges
C - Rear Full Range

With my setup I ended up with:

A - Front Door Mid Ranges
B - Not connected
C - Rear Full Range

I'll have to check in the morning, but I believe my 2/3way switch is set to 3way

I would recommend running your wires for all three as I started out. The reason I ended up not connecting the tweeters was when they were connected the noise floor was raised greatly when trying to achieve full range balance (green) and after playing around I discovered I didn't need all 3 to get full range to send to the Cleansweep DSP.

Currently with my configuration, I have it setup so full range to the DSP then outputting from the DSP to the EQ (just added, not in pictures) and amp via the 2 channels (fronts, rears).

I have the Cleansweep volume **** set at about 75/80% and I'm using factory controls exclusively with outrageous volume and clarity compared to the factory system

You will need to feed the cleansweep your speaker connections from the factory amp, the headunit is cambus and will not give you the needed signal and it will kill all the factory voice/nav/bluetooth stuff from working in the system.

CobraO

Couple quick questions, I'm sure I'll have more.

Do I have to have the signal summing device? Could I get full range from the rear channels?

Did you use the existing speaker wire that runs to the door speakers? I can pick them up at the existing amp, right?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the info.

kmaximus

Without the SSI or any other summing device you fall into one of two camps.

1. you wire up front (either tweeter, or midrange) and rear and get unbalanced sound with full factory functionality.

2. you wire up just the rears and kill all voice functionality via the factory system, but you have full range sound to work with.

That stuff only gets sent to the front speakers. It's been a pain for many folks on this and other forums discussing the integration process.

I've got some additional pictures in this thread, one showing were I spliced the wires to the factory wiring going out to the speakers. I did use existing wiring and basically created a loop of sorts where the speakers were plugged into the harness going to the factory amp/dsp. Cutting those wires from the harness going out to the speakers, now go to the CL, EQ, AMP, then back to the other end of those cut wires and out to the speakers.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/13-xlt...stions-231707/

CobraO

Using example #2, wiring up the rear speakers to the CS, would the Nav / Sync voice still come through on the center channel mounted in the dash?

Also, did you leave your A-Pillar tweeters connected to the stock Amp? Would the voice come through those as well?

Honestly, I had no idea it was going to be this complicated and if I can simplify it at all, I'll try. If I have to have the SSI, I will.

kmaximus

I believe specifically, the navigation comes from the front dash speaker, but a voice phone call goes to the front doors. if the front tweeters do get the voice call signal I doubt they are powerful enough to take main stage for that function over the door speakers.

In my setup I no longer use the factory connections for the tweeters, I'm using a component setup and installed new tweeters that run to a crossover that also connects the door speakers.

The right way will be to sum, I learned that the hard way....I ran my setup for a few months without the summing/eq from the cleansweep and it was awefully unbalance.

The good news is the SSI can be found for under 100 bucks and will make your install sound correct and it's the simplest solution since you already ahve the dsp. It daisy chains to the dsp easily so connectivity won't be that much more painful than just installing the dsp itself.