Help complete this build
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto
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Help complete this build
I haven't even taken possession of the new truck (get it Wednesday ), but I'm already planning out the stereo upgrade, that should be completed within a few weeks...
The truck is a 2011 F150 FX4 Supercrew. I will be keeping the stock head unit (6 disc with MP3). I just want a nice, simple look without compromising too much on sound. My musical choices tend to be bass-heavy, BTW.
I already have a JBL GTO5355 5ch (55Wx4 @4Ohm + 360W @2Ohm) and Pioneer 6"x8" speakers (pulled from the Mercury Marauder the truck will replace). The old RF Punch 12" sub that I had been running needs too much mounting depth, so it's a non-starter, and there are a couple of other parts I think I will need:
PAC AOEM-FRD24
Kicker 12" CVT Subwoofer and enclosure (link)
4x Ford Speaker Adapter Harnesses (link)
The 2011 uses the dreaded molex connectors in the doors, som I'm thinking of running speaker wire from the amp, to the PAC AOEM-FRD24 (behind the dash) and then through the stock wires to the doors. I figure this will save me from hacking up the stock wires, or drilling holes in the molex connectors.
Anyone have any thoughts on the above? In particular, I would like opinions on the syub and enclosure choice. Also, the GTO5355 is quite a long amp, so mounting ideas would be helpful (I don't know if it will fit behind the rear seat)...
Thanks in advance
The truck is a 2011 F150 FX4 Supercrew. I will be keeping the stock head unit (6 disc with MP3). I just want a nice, simple look without compromising too much on sound. My musical choices tend to be bass-heavy, BTW.
I already have a JBL GTO5355 5ch (55Wx4 @4Ohm + 360W @2Ohm) and Pioneer 6"x8" speakers (pulled from the Mercury Marauder the truck will replace). The old RF Punch 12" sub that I had been running needs too much mounting depth, so it's a non-starter, and there are a couple of other parts I think I will need:
PAC AOEM-FRD24
Kicker 12" CVT Subwoofer and enclosure (link)
4x Ford Speaker Adapter Harnesses (link)
The 2011 uses the dreaded molex connectors in the doors, som I'm thinking of running speaker wire from the amp, to the PAC AOEM-FRD24 (behind the dash) and then through the stock wires to the doors. I figure this will save me from hacking up the stock wires, or drilling holes in the molex connectors.
Anyone have any thoughts on the above? In particular, I would like opinions on the syub and enclosure choice. Also, the GTO5355 is quite a long amp, so mounting ideas would be helpful (I don't know if it will fit behind the rear seat)...
Thanks in advance
#2
Senior almost
if you want to stick to stock wiring you might want to get speaker wire adapters for the speakers or you have to cut the wires in the doors for new speakers. Several people have done very nice audio builds here so check out there installs your amp should install same as theres behind the rear seat on a supercrew..