Help with audio system build -Helix DSP
03-30-2016, 10:51 PM
#1
Help with audio system build -Helix DSP
So I have a 2015 Supercrew XLT with 302a package.
8" screen, sync, but no nav, no sony.
Factory speakers are 6x9 in front doors.
Tweets in A pillars.
6.5" in rear doors.
I started my build with some help from the thread started by 1Chad (thank you sir) https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2015-f...o-sony-314241/
I used the Parrot harness and stinger speedwire.
Speaker level inputs are going directly to a Helix DSP.
Power for the DSP is yellow fused wire from harness.
Ground is the black chassis ground wire from harness.
The Helix DSP has a spot for Remote IN and Remote OUT.
Manual says it does not need a REMOTE IN if using speaker level inputs.
Only connect the Remote OUT.
I did that, and ran it to both amps.
4 Channel RCA outs to the 4channel PPI amp.
2 channel RCA outs to the 2 channel Cadence Sub amp.
1/0ga Stinger wire to two amps in the back.
distro block for power
distro block for ground
300amp Stinger fuse at battery.
1/0 ga Stinger ground wire, paint removed from chassis, and connected to a long bolt that goes through the floor.
Tested grounding with multi meter, and all is good.
PPI p900.4 for mids and highs.
Cadence A7+HC for subwoofer
Originally, I set everything up.Turned on processor, connected usb to computer, opened the software. For some reason, I could only open a demo version.
I could get into the software and make changes, but it didn't actually do anything to the processor. ( I found this out later)
I closed the software.
Unhooked USB from computer.
Hooked up RCA cables to amps.
Beautiful sound immersed me.
Did some tweaking. Found out the sub amp was not getting a signal.
read the HELIX DSP manual again, and realized that the processor had not actually saved and of my settings because I was in demo mode.
I then turned everything off.
I think I forgot to unplug the RCAs, but I can't remember.
Anyways, I connected USB.
Started software.
It found my DSP, and loaded the correct version.
Did a firmware update.
Everything seemed to be fine.
Played around with the routing so that the sub outputs would get the signal from the 4 channel speaker level inputs.
Around this time, the amps shut off.
I don't know when it happened exactly. Might have been when I hit reset on the DSP.
But now, I cannot get the amps to turn on at all.
No power on lights.
No Protection lights.
They have power at the terminals.
I tested that.
The DSP is sending out audio from the outputs as well...I hooked up a RCA to Headphone adapter and checked every channel, and it is working exactly how I routed it.
Channels 1,2,3,4 are full range.
Channels 5,6 are not assigned / not used
Channles 7,8 are subwoofer.
I tried hooking up the remote again to the DSP to run to the amps.
Nothing.
I unhooked the remote line from the DSP and tried a new line.
I found one of the RED 12v Igntion switched wires in the harness, so I spliced into that (did not cut wire, only removed jacket and added my new remote turn on wire)
I ran that wire to the amps.
NOTHING.
I have a 3rd amp.
Brand new.
I tried hooking that up. The new RED 12v ignition wire will not turn the amp on.
I then tried the old method and ran the remote wire from the DSP, to the new amp.
PROTECTION Light starts flashing.
So I unhooked the new amp, and the power from the battery.
I am confused and frustrated.
I have reset the DSP, built a few new settings.
Loaded old ones and new ones.
I don't know what else to do.
Please Help?
8" screen, sync, but no nav, no sony.
Factory speakers are 6x9 in front doors.
Tweets in A pillars.
6.5" in rear doors.
I started my build with some help from the thread started by 1Chad (thank you sir) https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2015-f...o-sony-314241/
I used the Parrot harness and stinger speedwire.
Speaker level inputs are going directly to a Helix DSP.
Power for the DSP is yellow fused wire from harness.
Ground is the black chassis ground wire from harness.
The Helix DSP has a spot for Remote IN and Remote OUT.
Manual says it does not need a REMOTE IN if using speaker level inputs.
Only connect the Remote OUT.
I did that, and ran it to both amps.
4 Channel RCA outs to the 4channel PPI amp.
2 channel RCA outs to the 2 channel Cadence Sub amp.
1/0ga Stinger wire to two amps in the back.
distro block for power
distro block for ground
300amp Stinger fuse at battery.
1/0 ga Stinger ground wire, paint removed from chassis, and connected to a long bolt that goes through the floor.
Tested grounding with multi meter, and all is good.
PPI p900.4 for mids and highs.
Cadence A7+HC for subwoofer
Originally, I set everything up.Turned on processor, connected usb to computer, opened the software. For some reason, I could only open a demo version.
I could get into the software and make changes, but it didn't actually do anything to the processor. ( I found this out later)
I closed the software.
Unhooked USB from computer.
Hooked up RCA cables to amps.
Beautiful sound immersed me.
Did some tweaking. Found out the sub amp was not getting a signal.
read the HELIX DSP manual again, and realized that the processor had not actually saved and of my settings because I was in demo mode.
I then turned everything off.
I think I forgot to unplug the RCAs, but I can't remember.
Anyways, I connected USB.
Started software.
It found my DSP, and loaded the correct version.
Did a firmware update.
Everything seemed to be fine.
Played around with the routing so that the sub outputs would get the signal from the 4 channel speaker level inputs.
Around this time, the amps shut off.
I don't know when it happened exactly. Might have been when I hit reset on the DSP.
But now, I cannot get the amps to turn on at all.
No power on lights.
No Protection lights.
They have power at the terminals.
I tested that.
The DSP is sending out audio from the outputs as well...I hooked up a RCA to Headphone adapter and checked every channel, and it is working exactly how I routed it.
Channels 1,2,3,4 are full range.
Channels 5,6 are not assigned / not used
Channles 7,8 are subwoofer.
I tried hooking up the remote again to the DSP to run to the amps.
Nothing.
I unhooked the remote line from the DSP and tried a new line.
I found one of the RED 12v Igntion switched wires in the harness, so I spliced into that (did not cut wire, only removed jacket and added my new remote turn on wire)
I ran that wire to the amps.
NOTHING.
I have a 3rd amp.
Brand new.
I tried hooking that up. The new RED 12v ignition wire will not turn the amp on.
I then tried the old method and ran the remote wire from the DSP, to the new amp.
PROTECTION Light starts flashing.
So I unhooked the new amp, and the power from the battery.
I am confused and frustrated.
I have reset the DSP, built a few new settings.
Loaded old ones and new ones.
I don't know what else to do.
Please Help?
Last edited by luvdabass; 03-30-2016 at 10:55 PM.
03-31-2016, 08:43 AM
#2
Try this:
Disconnect the 12V ignition turn-on wire from each amp.
Disconnect the RCA connections from each amp.
Since you have 12V from the battery at the amp terminals, on one amp at a time, use a jumper wire from the + amp terminal to the turn-on terminal of the amp.
The amp should turn on. If it doesn't, check to see if the fuses on the amp popped.
If the amps do come on, hopefully we can eliminate those as being bad and can focus on getting the Helix to turn them on.
Disconnect the 12V ignition turn-on wire from each amp.
Disconnect the RCA connections from each amp.
Since you have 12V from the battery at the amp terminals, on one amp at a time, use a jumper wire from the + amp terminal to the turn-on terminal of the amp.
The amp should turn on. If it doesn't, check to see if the fuses on the amp popped.
If the amps do come on, hopefully we can eliminate those as being bad and can focus on getting the Helix to turn them on.
03-31-2016, 10:28 PM
#3
So I've made some progress...I think.
I did what cellars suggested. Amp went into protect mode. Even though multimeter showed a good ground, I knew it had to be this.
So I switched the grounding point to the factory ground (with green wire) that is behind the rear seat on the drivers side.
Hooked up the amps, and we're back in business....sort of.
Everything works now, but there is constant static coming out of all the speakers and subs. It is noise coming all the way from the factory systems, and cd player.
You can hear the cd spinning in the player, and there is amplified noise.
Plus static.
Also, every time i open a door or put the key in, there is a pop that goes through the system.
Almost like a turn on thump.
I know the doors are tied into a chime, and also into some weird relay that turns on the radio and or touch screen.
So when the door opens, there is a pop.
When you turn the radio on, there is a pop.
When you put the key in the ignition, there is a pop,
and when you turn the key or start the truck, there is a pop.
I'm guessing this is some type of ground loop?
DSP still has wire and ground through the factory harness. I tried moving the ground for DSP to the same spot as the amps are grounded...no change in static or noise problems.
Remote turn on is coming from the DSP to the amps.
Any ideas?
How do you get rid of a ground loop like this?
Whats weird is there is no engine noise, and no alternator noise.
It does not get louder when the engine is running, or when you rev it.
I did what cellars suggested. Amp went into protect mode. Even though multimeter showed a good ground, I knew it had to be this.
So I switched the grounding point to the factory ground (with green wire) that is behind the rear seat on the drivers side.
Hooked up the amps, and we're back in business....sort of.
Everything works now, but there is constant static coming out of all the speakers and subs. It is noise coming all the way from the factory systems, and cd player.
You can hear the cd spinning in the player, and there is amplified noise.
Plus static.
Also, every time i open a door or put the key in, there is a pop that goes through the system.
Almost like a turn on thump.
I know the doors are tied into a chime, and also into some weird relay that turns on the radio and or touch screen.
So when the door opens, there is a pop.
When you turn the radio on, there is a pop.
When you put the key in the ignition, there is a pop,
and when you turn the key or start the truck, there is a pop.
I'm guessing this is some type of ground loop?
DSP still has wire and ground through the factory harness. I tried moving the ground for DSP to the same spot as the amps are grounded...no change in static or noise problems.
Remote turn on is coming from the DSP to the amps.
Any ideas?
How do you get rid of a ground loop like this?
Whats weird is there is no engine noise, and no alternator noise.
It does not get louder when the engine is running, or when you rev it.
04-01-2016, 11:03 AM
#4
So I've made some progress...I think.
I did what cellars suggested. Amp went into protect mode. Even though multimeter showed a good ground, I knew it had to be this.
So I switched the grounding point to the factory ground (with green wire) that is behind the rear seat on the drivers side.
Hooked up the amps, and we're back in business....sort of.
Everything works now, but there is constant static coming out of all the speakers and subs. It is noise coming all the way from the factory systems, and cd player.
You can hear the cd spinning in the player, and there is amplified noise.
Plus static.
Also, every time i open a door or put the key in, there is a pop that goes through the system.
Almost like a turn on thump.
I know the doors are tied into a chime, and also into some weird relay that turns on the radio and or touch screen.
So when the door opens, there is a pop.
When you turn the radio on, there is a pop.
When you put the key in the ignition, there is a pop,
and when you turn the key or start the truck, there is a pop.
I'm guessing this is some type of ground loop?
DSP still has wire and ground through the factory harness. I tried moving the ground for DSP to the same spot as the amps are grounded...no change in static or noise problems.
Remote turn on is coming from the DSP to the amps.
Any ideas?
How do you get rid of a ground loop like this?
Whats weird is there is no engine noise, and no alternator noise.
It does not get louder when the engine is running, or when you rev it.
I did what cellars suggested. Amp went into protect mode. Even though multimeter showed a good ground, I knew it had to be this.
So I switched the grounding point to the factory ground (with green wire) that is behind the rear seat on the drivers side.
Hooked up the amps, and we're back in business....sort of.
Everything works now, but there is constant static coming out of all the speakers and subs. It is noise coming all the way from the factory systems, and cd player.
You can hear the cd spinning in the player, and there is amplified noise.
Plus static.
Also, every time i open a door or put the key in, there is a pop that goes through the system.
Almost like a turn on thump.
I know the doors are tied into a chime, and also into some weird relay that turns on the radio and or touch screen.
So when the door opens, there is a pop.
When you turn the radio on, there is a pop.
When you put the key in the ignition, there is a pop,
and when you turn the key or start the truck, there is a pop.
I'm guessing this is some type of ground loop?
DSP still has wire and ground through the factory harness. I tried moving the ground for DSP to the same spot as the amps are grounded...no change in static or noise problems.
Remote turn on is coming from the DSP to the amps.
Any ideas?
How do you get rid of a ground loop like this?
Whats weird is there is no engine noise, and no alternator noise.
It does not get louder when the engine is running, or when you rev it.
04-01-2016, 01:29 PM
#5
Yes the noise is still there. Even when the amps aren't getting an RCA signal, but they are on and hooked to speakers.
So the noise is somehow in the factory wiring somewhere, and either tied into the speakers,in the doors/dash, or the noise is traveling through the entire body of the truck.
I tried unhooking center channel speaker that does not change anything.
So the noise is somehow in the factory wiring somewhere, and either tied into the speakers,in the doors/dash, or the noise is traveling through the entire body of the truck.
I tried unhooking center channel speaker that does not change anything.
Last edited by luvdabass; 04-01-2016 at 01:42 PM.
04-01-2016, 01:32 PM
#6
I changed the ground to a new location.
Sanded it off to bare metal. Nice solid bolt right into a steel panel.
No difference.
Tried a new remote turn on lead and ran it to fuse 23.
no difference.
Tried new RCA cables.
Tried unhooking one amp at a time.
Tried moving the stinger speedier around to see if interference changes.
NOTHING takes away the noise and static.
It has to be something with the head unit/cdplayer.
The noise is created there. You can hear the cd start spinning, and the electronics inside the unit.
UGH
Sanded it off to bare metal. Nice solid bolt right into a steel panel.
No difference.
Tried a new remote turn on lead and ran it to fuse 23.
no difference.
Tried new RCA cables.
Tried unhooking one amp at a time.
Tried moving the stinger speedier around to see if interference changes.
NOTHING takes away the noise and static.
It has to be something with the head unit/cdplayer.
The noise is created there. You can hear the cd start spinning, and the electronics inside the unit.
UGH
04-03-2016, 06:43 PM
#7
I changed the ground to a new location.
Sanded it off to bare metal. Nice solid bolt right into a steel panel.
No difference.
Tried a new remote turn on lead and ran it to fuse 23.
no difference.
Tried new RCA cables.
Tried unhooking one amp at a time.
Tried moving the stinger speedier around to see if interference changes.
NOTHING takes away the noise and static.
It has to be something with the head unit/cdplayer.
The noise is created there. You can hear the cd start spinning, and the electronics inside the unit.
UGH
Sanded it off to bare metal. Nice solid bolt right into a steel panel.
No difference.
Tried a new remote turn on lead and ran it to fuse 23.
no difference.
Tried new RCA cables.
Tried unhooking one amp at a time.
Tried moving the stinger speedier around to see if interference changes.
NOTHING takes away the noise and static.
It has to be something with the head unit/cdplayer.
The noise is created there. You can hear the cd start spinning, and the electronics inside the unit.
UGH