oneFITTYman

By the way, Im runnin, 2 10 inch KICKER COMP, CVT's kicker 6x8's front and rear. kenwood 1600 watt power amp. a one farad raptor capacitor. Pioneer P5900IB Head unit 50 watts per channel. Took 2nd place at the local Decible drags. BOOM SHA LOCK LOCK BOOOOOOOM!!! Yeah Buddy, Dats Right.

loganberry

do NOT buy the amp install kit from places onefittyman listed, it gives you enough wire for a short ground, and not one from the battery, you get better sound from the battery ground

yes you can put a toggle switch on the remote wire and have no problems

all thats in an amp install kit is some wire for power and ground, rca's (cheap ones usually) a fuse (cheap ones) some speaker wire (14-18 gauge) and some remote wire...and they still charge you more than it is to piece it together yourself



www.knukonceptz.com they have everything there you need and its good prices, i run over 100 feet of there 0 gauge wire in my competition vehicle, super flexible

vpr1019

I ran my ground to the chassis bolt on my seat. You don't have to run your ground to the battery, just find a good solid ground point and it'll work great.

I also have a toggle switch on my remote wire.

And as was said, make sure you tuck all the wires away.

loganberry

that is not the best way to do the battery ground...it is much better to run the ground to your battery, its conductivity is much better and results in better cleaner sound...if you are going the cheap route and ground it to your seat bolt at least make sure you grind around it so its pure metal to metal connection, but please spend the extra 10 dollars on wire and do it right the first time

vpr1019

The whole chassis is a ground point, the battery is connected to that ground point; so as long as, like you said, there is a metal to metal connection, it is all the same ground.

loganberry

no its not the same ground, the grounding point at the battery is MUCH stronger, its multiple grounding points, where as the seat ground is weak...please spend the extra money and do it right

jrfonte

has anyone asked him what amp he has to find out how much amperage its going to pull so he can get the corrrect size wire that is going to be needed for the length of the run? there right about buying the wire from best buy or circuit city dont. get your wire from knukonceptz its really nice wire and affordable. there is no problem with grounding your wire in the back of the cab with a short length of wire to the chassis. just make sure to use a ring terminal on a good solid ground and dont just wrap the wire around a bolt or something. if your putting in a larger size amp its a good idea to upgrade your battery ground to frame and engine ground under the hood to. running longer than needed lengths of wire for your power and ground to your amp creates extra resistance in the wire that is not wanted. you want your power cables to be as short as possible to cut down on the resistance "ohms" because the more resistance you have the longer the wires, you will have an increase in voltage drop at the amplifier.

loganberry

no you wont have an increase in voltage problems if you have the right size wire, it is a known and stated fact in the audio competition world that grounding it to the frame or any thing other than the battery is a weaker grounding point and the sound is not as good... i will say it yet again before i leave this thread since everyone wants to go the cheap route, please spend 10 extra dollars and ground it to the battery you will be much happier in the long run

anything said after this post i will not respond do as i have stated my opinion and facts multiple times

jrfonte

how many cars were there you and 1 other

hankfan79

Althought I agree alot with what loganberry usually posts...this is not one of them. You want the SHORTEST and cleanest ground possible. It is not a bad idea to run it to the battery, but it is a known fact that you superior conductivity with a SHORT ground. Grounding to the chassis is a good idea but make sure the ground is clean and protected.