Gen 9 subwoofer install
07-04-2010, 09:07 PM
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Gen 9 subwoofer install
I have been trying to find information on subwoofer installs on the gen 9 trucks, extended cab to be exact. However all i can find is installs on the newer trucks unless im not putting in the right combo of words. So can anyone tell me what they have for a system in their truck. I have a jvc cd player now but everything else is stock. I dont think i will go bigger than a 10. Can someone explain or point me in the right direction of box building? I have read things about dialing in the right freq and stuff with the box itself and getting techy with the airspace and such. I have no problem with building a box but I want to understand what the goals are while building a box not just put 4 corners together and hope it sounds good. So I believe that I would like to use a 10'' or maybe 2 8''s. Nothing to rattle the neighbors windows but I like to crank my rock, country and bluegrass so thats what Im after. If anyone can suggest some good speakers for the doors and rear that would be great. Also how do you get to the rear speakers? Do you have to remove all the paneling or just pull off the speaker grill? Pictures are welcome. Thanks.
07-05-2010, 10:39 AM
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Skip the speakers in your rear doors (just disconnect the stockers) and spend the money on your front stage, all rear speakers do is draw your sound stage rearward (you want it to sound like a concert with the sound coming from in front of you). IIRC, you have 6.5" speakers stock in the front doors, so I'd recommend a pair of 6.5" components (separate woofer, tweeter and crossover).
You can either use a 2 channel amp for the front doors with a mono for the sub(s), or use a 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channel for the sub(s). Only look at RMS ratings for amps, max/peak power is a useless number. Overshoot the RMS rating for the speakers with the amp so that you don't have to over gain the amp to get all the performance out of your speakers (for example, if your components are rated at 60W RMS, try to find an amp that is capable of 75-100W RMS).
Sealed boxes are easy, just get the airspace right and you're good for the most part, ported boxes get tricky do to port length and tuning. Most people would recommend a sealed box for your music preference, and using one allows you to use significantly less space for each sub (efficiency is sacrificed, however). DIYMA.com is a great forum to research for audio tips.
You can either use a 2 channel amp for the front doors with a mono for the sub(s), or use a 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channel for the sub(s). Only look at RMS ratings for amps, max/peak power is a useless number. Overshoot the RMS rating for the speakers with the amp so that you don't have to over gain the amp to get all the performance out of your speakers (for example, if your components are rated at 60W RMS, try to find an amp that is capable of 75-100W RMS).
Sealed boxes are easy, just get the airspace right and you're good for the most part, ported boxes get tricky do to port length and tuning. Most people would recommend a sealed box for your music preference, and using one allows you to use significantly less space for each sub (efficiency is sacrificed, however). DIYMA.com is a great forum to research for audio tips.
07-05-2010, 03:21 PM
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thanks for the info. where can you find mdf at? Ive never actuallly looked to see if it was sold at lowes or something. With a box all i would really need to do is build a box and fit the sub in it. How do you decide whether to port it or not?
07-05-2010, 03:32 PM
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ONe thing i just thought of is why do manufacturers put speakers in the back if what you say goes? Some cars have like an 8 speaker setup for some reason. The fader to go from front to back wouldnt help to change this so that your soundstage is correct? Just something i thought of.
07-05-2010, 03:35 PM
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They should have it at Lowes, Home-Depot, and any local lumber yards, it's used for making cabinets, so it's pretty common.
Read through the sub box links on http://www.bcae1.com/ . If you're computer savvy, give winisd pro a shot. It's a free subwoofer response modeling software and you can compare between box types and port lengths.
Read through the sub box links on http://www.bcae1.com/ . If you're computer savvy, give winisd pro a shot. It's a free subwoofer response modeling software and you can compare between box types and port lengths.