Almighty

So I just got some new speakers and a headunit. I got the kicker ks68 all the way around and I am thoroughly impressed with them. They actually have an incredible amount of bass for just a few 6x8s with no amp or Sub. Very clean sound. And only 100$ for a pair. Highly recommend them.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KS68...S68.html?tp=93

Largefarva

Those are the same speakers I have in all four doors. If you want to really wake them up for cheap get the Alpine amp from this thread and you'll hear what they should sound like (that is if you're using the stock stereo like I am).

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/small-...stalled-96750/

Apparently Alpine is coming out (or already has) with an updated version that is universal with any stereo so you don't have to buy the Metra BT-5520 harness and hack everything up. The updated power pack has the same model number but with a "U" at the end.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

The KTP-445 is a decent unit, but won't see a huge gain in SQ. Much much much better 4-channel amps can be had for that price. They will also sound much better and offer better x-overs. Also note; the KTP 445 requires a 12ga or better power wire fused from the battery. So it kind of defeats the purpose of "plug n play". If you use your factory 18ga wire to run this, you willl hardly be able to tell the difference over the aftermarket head unit.

I had this installed in my BMW and was a terrible waste of 150bucks. Go with a true outboard amp if you can. Sure the wiring takes longer, but when comparing the two; the outboard amp is exponentially better in SQ and power. Just my $.02

amick218

+1 I can't see that cracker jack toy making a noticeable difference, atleast one that justifies the money or time. Search Amazon for the real deal. I have Kicker 11ks65.2 components all around hooked to an MB Quart FX4.100 and it sounds amazing. Both of my amplifiers are MB Quart they have been great and the four channel was only $130-140ish from Amazon.

Largefarva

You missed the point where I said "cheap". It's a ton cheaper than buying a normal 4 channel amp, LOC or DSP, and all the wiring to go with it. Plus the install cost for those of us who don't have the experience with installing all of that. For less than $150 you can do what I did and do it yourself in a couple hours.

I didn't see any reason to install a larger power wire...after hacking everything up to make it plug-and-play I installed it and it sounds great. Does it sound like an expensive aftermarket stereo system? No, but it is a definite improvement over stock. I was going to go the whole nine yards....4 channel amp, LCQ-1 or cleansweep, amp wiring kits, etc which was adding up to $600-800. Then I decided to try the Alpine amp, and haven't looked back since. Sounds just fine to me...cleaner sound and it didn't break the bank.

I can't comment on how it would improve while using an aftermarket head unit because I'm still using the stock one.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

It may be a tad bit cheaper, but I wouldn't say a "ton" . For $250 you can purchase a decent outboard amp and the entire wiring kit from an Authorized dealer. You don't need LOC's for most new amps, they have high level inputs. The same that are used on your KTP.
Without getting into amps and wattage equations, I hope your constant 12v wire doesn't burn up. If you upgrade that wire I would think you could be able to tell a difference. Right now, you are limiting the capabilities of the pack.

Largefarva

I'll go ahead and go into the amps and wattage equations for ya. At full power of 180 watts (combined) it will draw 15 amps (assuming voltage is right at 12 volts...which is likely a low value as my electrical system is closer to 13-14 volts). I don't feel the need to turn it up any higher than 30-40% of max. volume and most times it's lower than that. At 40% volume lets go ahead and call that 72 watts total, which comes out to 6 amps. I'm pretty sure that the 5-7 feet or so of 18 gauge wire that is used in the stock wiring can safely handle that. Seeing as how Ford has that circuit fused for 10 amps, I'm sure they felt the wire choice could handle it without issue.

I use test leads at work to test relays and push that kind of current through them all day long and it doesn't hurt them. Now when I have to do an over-current test on a relay and have to put 30 amps through it....yeah it heats up then.

I found another fuse for the radio that is fused for 20 amps. Not sure which is for the main power (10 or 20 amp) but I would say I could safely assume that the 20 amp circuit is the one for the main stereo power.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Great, someone who understands electrical circuit. Yes, you are correct, 180 watts *Continuous* power; which im skeptical about. Alpine rates the max pull(peak powers) at 15amps, i thought it was 25.


I'm not sure what model truck you have, but mine is quite different (03 FX4). My amp rating is 10 for the circuit. Also note: that wire is powering your headunit(display, output, etc) too, so its sucking power from both units since they are in parallel.

Your math is correct, but because your volume is at 40% doesnt mean the unit is pulling %40 of its rated power. I had an older model alpine (CDA 7894) that put out 27rms x4 and actually blew a couple of 15 amp fuses. It also made my wire insulation very very thin and flimsy from getting very hot.

If you have a newer model, they may have larger wire or better copper. I am not sure, but less resistance is always better. Safer for you, your vehicle, and components.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

But I do agree, if you insist on keeping the stock HU. This option is a good upgrade. Not so much for an aftermarket unit.

Largefarva

Yeah, mine is a 2011 but I do believe they are still using 18 gauge. It could be 16 gauge, as I'm terrible at judging wire sizes. You would think that working in the electrical field I would be able to tell even when blind folded...but nope, not me. lol

And I agree...at 40% it likely isn't putting out 40% of its rated power. That would only happen in a perfect world with 100% efficiency. So it's probably putting out less, which would say its not drawing as much power.

I did think about all of these things when I did the mod, and realized that the stock stereo itself isn't really going to be drawing much power because it's feeding into high impedance inputs of the power pack. No real load on it so it's not gonna need a lot of juice. For that reason I figured I'd be safe with the install. But who knows...maybe my OCD will kick in one day and I'll do as you're suggesting, just to see if there's a difference. But as of right now, my stereo sounds absolutely perfect for my needs.

If I ever win the lottery though...the thing is coming out and I'm gonna do a real system. lol


To the OP, I just wanted to agree that your speaker choice was a good one. Apologies for hijacking your thread.