Final audio install questions
06-05-2011, 01:01 AM
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MOTOunplugged
Should I remove these yellow screw things before I install my mdf adapters? Or just use molding clay on the edges to seal them up tight.
06-08-2011, 10:37 PM
#83
Senior almost
Not ignoring you I am contemplating some of the things said.... I have installed more stereo equipment than I care to remember. Trying to answer your question, your not really going to seal the doors. I looked at this from as many angels as possible, if you could even seal it? My answer is any sound you might gain would be negated by the cost to try to create a seal. Your better off buying better quality speakers and other equipment then spending hundreds or more on trying to create a seal. However you can deaden the door panels themselves and create better sound reproduction but again to see a little benefit costs a lot and your better served by better components. I do agree that sound deadner of any type helps but also limited amounts and correct placement is the most important factor. Superior equipment provides superior quality sound reproduction. But when you start you spend 500 dollars to get 50% better sound, the next 500 dollars only gets you another 20%. Then you get to thousands and only get 5 to 10% better as you spend money. Everything together makes an outstanding system, wires, installation, equipment and techniques. Optimize the money you spend to get the biggest reward for what you want to hear.
06-09-2011, 01:58 AM
#84
Senior Member
Not ignoring you I am contemplating some of the things said.... I have installed more stereo equipment than I care to remember. Trying to answer your question, your not really going to seal the doors. I looked at this from as many angels as possible, if you could even seal it? My answer is any sound you might gain would be negated by the cost to try to create a seal. Your better off buying better quality speakers and other equipment then spending hundreds or more on trying to create a seal. However you can deaden the door panels themselves and create better sound reproduction but again to see a little benefit costs a lot and your better served by better components. I do agree that sound deadner of any type helps but also limited amounts and correct placement is the most important factor. Superior equipment provides superior quality sound reproduction. But when you start you spend 500 dollars to get 50% better sound, the next 500 dollars only gets you another 20%. Then you get to thousands and only get 5 to 10% better as you spend money. Everything together makes an outstanding system, wires, installation, equipment and techniques. Optimize the money you spend to get the biggest reward for what you want to hear.
It is true, tough to completely seal the doors. Only costed me a few extra bucks to cover the gaping holes with flashing/deadener and midbass response, particularly in the 70Hz-250Hz region, was noticeably stronger (I had to EQ down in this region from the previous settings on my tune). Getting super expensive speakers just to run them free-air in the doors that far off axis, behind panels, with poor path length difference between sides....just doesn't seem worth the cost of high dollar speakers since you do them no justice. The last part you mentioned about every part of a system being important I agree with, but installation should be a higher priority IMO.
I sat in the car that won MECA in CA last year for modified class in SQ and he was using $50 mid ranges, $60 tweeters and $60 8" midbass drivers. Not exactly "top tier" by the mobile audio standard, but his install was impeccable and tuned to perfection.
06-09-2011, 02:02 AM
#85
Senior Member
OP: Yes remove the yellow tabs around the speaker hole, and use some sort of clay or butyl sealant between the metal and the baffle to absorb any vibration.
06-09-2011, 12:07 PM
#86
Senior almost
A proper installation using quality equipment provides the best quality sound. Tuning and testing with specialized test equipment will enhance your install... I use a Alpine SPL/SQL audio master sound test meter. Dealer cost about a grand dont expect anyone else to use it or buy it. They also make some very inexpensive ones that are about 100 to 200 dollars. My high end installs I use 1000 dollar component sets and the sound is incredible. You can hear things that cheaper speakers do not reproduce so yes the equpiment you select is very important, not the single most important.
In your application attempting to seal the doors is not possible. If you really want the best sound with what you have make an enclosure for the speakers to sit in to and seal it. If not use sound deadner against outer door skin and on inner door frame. You do not have to cover it. Cover the large opening and small openings as you can. Sound deadner is not designed to cover holes up it is a poor material for that. Get some heavy water proof materials such as 30 pound roof felt and cover opeings to create the best seal you can. If you can design custom door panels then yes even better. But it is my best guess thats not your goal. My answer to you is you want to use stock locations. It is your truck I am simply giving you an opinion as things to do to help you make it better the most cost effective way possible. i have won over 60 audio championships both SPL and SQL in different places accross the US during the 80's and 90's. I have also been retired from it for the last 10 years but still do the occassional installs. I am still a dealer for most of the equipment and can get what I need when i need it.
Now to your quesion yes remove the yellow tabs you can use a good sealant to fill the gap after you cut the wood to fit, or plastic aftermarket kit. One thing to remember is your speaker maybe exposed to rain in the door so you will need some type of rain shield also. I would also cover the wood with a good water repellant.....
In your application attempting to seal the doors is not possible. If you really want the best sound with what you have make an enclosure for the speakers to sit in to and seal it. If not use sound deadner against outer door skin and on inner door frame. You do not have to cover it. Cover the large opening and small openings as you can. Sound deadner is not designed to cover holes up it is a poor material for that. Get some heavy water proof materials such as 30 pound roof felt and cover opeings to create the best seal you can. If you can design custom door panels then yes even better. But it is my best guess thats not your goal. My answer to you is you want to use stock locations. It is your truck I am simply giving you an opinion as things to do to help you make it better the most cost effective way possible. i have won over 60 audio championships both SPL and SQL in different places accross the US during the 80's and 90's. I have also been retired from it for the last 10 years but still do the occassional installs. I am still a dealer for most of the equipment and can get what I need when i need it.
Now to your quesion yes remove the yellow tabs you can use a good sealant to fill the gap after you cut the wood to fit, or plastic aftermarket kit. One thing to remember is your speaker maybe exposed to rain in the door so you will need some type of rain shield also. I would also cover the wood with a good water repellant.....
06-09-2011, 12:55 PM
#87
Senior Member
What specific speakers do yo speak of? Hertz, Dyn, Focal etc? While those are nice, some of the price mark-up for mobile audio equipment is just ridiculous these days. People pay hundreds for speakers touted as "high end" yet you pull the speaker apart and find low quality parts, generic build quality with outdated motor topologies and lack of distortion limiting features. This is why I stick mostly to home audio speakers. Well built, much better parts and modern technology while still having lower prices than a lot of mainstream car audio stuff.
06-09-2011, 01:49 PM
#88
Senior almost
The best speakers I ever used were MB quarts and were made in Germany. Taking one apart you would find higher quality materials, gold plated connectors copper coils and each speaker was handmade.. Then of course Rockford bought the company and so not so good anymore, made in china.... I like to use PHASS today as they are probably some of the best in the world now. Focal makes a good product but it is not as good as they use to be.. Of course these are simply my opinions...
06-09-2011, 02:00 PM
#89
Senior Member
The best speakers I ever used were MB quarts and were made in Germany. Taking one apart you would find higher quality materials, gold plated connectors copper coils and each speaker was handmade.. Then of course Rockford bought the company and so not so good anymore, made in china.... I like to use PHASS today as they are probably some of the best in the world now. Focal makes a good product but it is not as good as they use to be.. Of course these are simply my opinions...
06-09-2011, 10:11 PM
#90
Senior almost
PHASS is from Japan.... about 1998 or so... Seas I have played with there Norweigan I think and pretty dam good.. But I think at this extreeme hi end audio it really becomes to each there own taste. Do you like a nice bright sound and do you appreciate accurate sound reproduction... I think it really is an opinion...