Factory Sub - 2006 F15 KR - Pics/Troubleshoot
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Factory Sub - 2006 F15 KR - Pics/Troubleshoot
Quick back story: When I bought my truck the factory sub did not work. I wasn't too worried about it as the truck was pristine and had 60k miles on it at 10 years old. I was also planning on upgrading the audio later.
Fast forward to today. It's rainy out so decided to take a look.
#1 On the front passenger kick-panel in fuse holder 38 is a 25AMP fuse. Fuse was good.
#2 Got a multi-meter and checked at the amp. The amp is attached to the sub enclosure underneath the back seat. 3 10mm bolts hold the enclosure in place if you want to take it out. Voltage read 12.06 Volts.
#3 Took the Subwoofer out of the enclosure and checked for continuity between the connector that plugs into the amp and the post on the speaker. These showed continuity.
#4 Using a AA battery I briefly connected the neg/pos on the sub speaker. The speaker moved as would expected.
#5 Checked for voltage on the speaker side of the AMP. Nothing there.
#6 Took the AMP apart to see if there were any blaring problems. None seen.
At this point I am stopping, as I will be replacing in the near future so I'm not really concerned about it. At this point though, looking at the amp, you would want to replace it with a factory replacement or aftermarket if you are a little more savvy. I don't think there is much to do on the board itself unless you want to start testing capacitors and replacing small parts.
Enclosure - 10mm Bolts
Speaker to Enclosure - T-20 Torx
Amp to Enclosure - T-15 Torx
Bottom of AMP - T-10 Torx
Purple was power.
Plug for the Sub
Purple to Ground
T-20
T-15
T-10
Fast forward to today. It's rainy out so decided to take a look.
#1 On the front passenger kick-panel in fuse holder 38 is a 25AMP fuse. Fuse was good.
#2 Got a multi-meter and checked at the amp. The amp is attached to the sub enclosure underneath the back seat. 3 10mm bolts hold the enclosure in place if you want to take it out. Voltage read 12.06 Volts.
#3 Took the Subwoofer out of the enclosure and checked for continuity between the connector that plugs into the amp and the post on the speaker. These showed continuity.
#4 Using a AA battery I briefly connected the neg/pos on the sub speaker. The speaker moved as would expected.
#5 Checked for voltage on the speaker side of the AMP. Nothing there.
#6 Took the AMP apart to see if there were any blaring problems. None seen.
At this point I am stopping, as I will be replacing in the near future so I'm not really concerned about it. At this point though, looking at the amp, you would want to replace it with a factory replacement or aftermarket if you are a little more savvy. I don't think there is much to do on the board itself unless you want to start testing capacitors and replacing small parts.
Enclosure - 10mm Bolts
Speaker to Enclosure - T-20 Torx
Amp to Enclosure - T-15 Torx
Bottom of AMP - T-10 Torx
Purple was power.
Plug for the Sub
Purple to Ground
T-20
T-15
T-10
Last edited by atxford; 04-16-2016 at 03:57 PM.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Probably not earth shattering information, but I didn't see much on the web for the 2006. I'll use this thread to show the new sub when I get to that point.
Last edited by atxford; 04-16-2016 at 03:57 PM.