bdunn

I just took delivery of my 2011 supercrew, but I have been researching the audio for a couple weeks on here, and on other sites. I think I've read most of the threads. I knew the sound would be bad, but I just wasn't prepared for how bad it'd be. I guess it might be fine if I was 12" tall or if I drove with my head between my legs. The soundstage is much too low and the sound reproduction is horrible at best. I think my old '93 chevy truck with a blown passenger front speaker sounded better. At least the speakers were in the dash and the rear pillars.

So on to a new system. My budget for this build is $1,000 and I want it to be as audiophile as possible. I don't care about big thump, but I do like well rounded sound. I also want to keep as much storage space under the rear seat as possible. I have researched and ruled out building a sub box in the console or under the front seat. I'm going to be stuck with a box under the back seat like everyone else, but I do want to keep it as compact as possible. Here's what I've come up with so far. Feel free to critique. I installed quite a few systems 10 or so years ago, but nothing since then. I know technology has come a long ways and I know there's smarter folks than me on here and in many walks of life, including the audio world.

First...I'm keeping the stock head unit and running a PAC connector for the preamp outs. I'm pretty firm on this since I want to keep a stock look. Next, door speakers. I want to do components in the front, and 6x8's in back. I'm wavering between these 2 components and their matched 6x8 brothers:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-680.9cs.html



http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DXI5...and|Polk+Audio



And an amp of course, to power the door speakers and the sub. I know there's not a lot of love for 5 channel amps for some reason, but for the reason of space savings and price, I'd like to run this amp:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-MRX-V60.html



I have talked to rodney on ebay quite a bit about building me a custom sub box that takes up as little room as possible, but I still don't know how much room that will be. It needs to be set up for .5 cu/ft in order to run this sub:

http://stereointegrity.com/index.php?id=47





What am I missing other than wiring, cabling, etc? I'm sure I'll have questions on all that. What can I do different to maximize sound from this cavernous cab? Which of those highs/mids should I run, or should I use something altogether different? Opinions are welcome. I'm enjoying being on the forum and learning from a great group of guys and gals.

bdunn

nobody?

Venomized

I would go with the components as you said for the fronts because you can aim the tweeter for the best staging possible and then run coaxials in the rear.

As far as the sub goes, you'll need to figure out the space you have to work with as far as your enclosure goes. Then you will have to build it so that the inside dimensions add up to the airspace needed for that sub to run. If you remember WxHxD / 1728 you'll get your airspace.

Nickmemphis25

Kicker makes a nice shallow sub, I just installed it in my supercrew fits real nice under the back seat and does not take up alot of room at all.

silentwitness33

I think you're heading in the right direction for a quality, yet fiscally responsible system. I would recommend going with the Infinity speakers as I have always been impressed with their rms power handling and sound quality. As for a subwoofer, have you considered these JL Audio subs? I have used the ten inch subs in numerous installs which had limited space. They require little air space in sealed applications, have a slightly greater than 4 inch mounting depth, sound very nice, have great depth, and won't break the bank. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-w1v2

Nickmemphis25

Are those jl shallow mounting? And can you get them in 2ohm

Venomized

No they are not shallow mount but they are 4.34" mounting depth. So theyre not much more than the ones you posted. JL Audio is known for clean bass.

You can get more than one and run the 2 of them wired together for a 2 ohm final load. Heres a diagram on how to do it: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...2&woofer_imp=1