Can someone who knows better review my audio setup before I hit the buy button?
03-27-2013, 02:17 PM
#22
Senior Member
03-27-2013, 02:21 PM
#23
Super Moderator
03-27-2013, 02:27 PM
#24
Senior Member
sig worthy
03-27-2013, 02:46 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK - I've been trying to use the info contained in this thread to research my needs. I'm still confused as to the purpose of a $200-300 processor like the LCQ1 or LC7i or xxxx vs a regular $20 LOC.
Whatever 'signal' is going to the front / rear speakers now is working. I just want to increase the wattage going to them, right? Why do I really care to 'sum' the signals together?
I'm thinking, if I put a $20 LOC on the front speakers and send it to the amp, then back, isn't it just an amplified version of what I currently have (with Sync, navigation, phone, etc). And then I'd do the same thing with the rears, only also send the output to the sub also because it's got the full range of the signal.
I guess I'm just failing to understand why I need a signal summing device. Is there a simple answer to this? I want "better" SQ, not perfect SQ.
Whatever 'signal' is going to the front / rear speakers now is working. I just want to increase the wattage going to them, right? Why do I really care to 'sum' the signals together?
I'm thinking, if I put a $20 LOC on the front speakers and send it to the amp, then back, isn't it just an amplified version of what I currently have (with Sync, navigation, phone, etc). And then I'd do the same thing with the rears, only also send the output to the sub also because it's got the full range of the signal.
I guess I'm just failing to understand why I need a signal summing device. Is there a simple answer to this? I want "better" SQ, not perfect SQ.
Last edited by sharper4; 03-27-2013 at 02:58 PM.
03-27-2013, 02:53 PM
#26
cool . But this is the way to do it if you want it to sound good, and it's like $400..... So it's not too much for something proven, that sounds amazing. Do things right or half asssesd, I couldn't care less, not my truck. I gave the answer that I found after months of research,people can listen, or do their own due dilligence.This is from MASTER installers, who have done all kinds of these and this is what they swear by after trying the Alpine, JL, etc.... This is solid info I am giving the OP, use it or don't , but it's a definitive answer. I know, cause I have close to 5 grand worth of stereo going in my truck this spring... so I spent a long time reading, then finally just picked up a phone and asked.
This isnt a thread to brag about knowledge, its helping the OP get the best results for his money. Running infinity door speakers should show you he isnt looking for competition level SQ.
03-27-2013, 03:44 PM
#28
Well I have about 3 grand in mine without a processor, and it functions and sounds perfect for my taste. Working for crutchfield for a couple of years kind of helps audio knowledge.
This isnt a thread to brag about knowledge, its helping the OP get the best results for his money. Running infinity door speakers should show you he isnt looking for competition level SQ.
This isnt a thread to brag about knowledge, its helping the OP get the best results for his money. Running infinity door speakers should show you he isnt looking for competition level SQ.
Last edited by 2011LIMITED#288; 03-27-2013 at 03:46 PM.
03-27-2013, 04:08 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK - I've been trying to use the info contained in this thread to research my needs. I'm still confused as to the purpose of a $200-300 processor like the LCQ1 or LC7i or xxxx vs a regular $20 LOC.
Whatever 'signal' is going to the front / rear speakers now is working. I just want to increase the wattage going to them, right? Why do I really care to 'sum' the signals together?
I'm thinking, if I put a $20 LOC on the front speakers and send it to the amp, then back, isn't it just an amplified version of what I currently have (with Sync, navigation, phone, etc). And then I'd do the same thing with the rears, only also send the output to the sub also because it's got the full range of the signal.
I guess I'm just failing to understand why I need a signal summing device. Is there a simple answer to this? I want "better" SQ, not perfect SQ.
Whatever 'signal' is going to the front / rear speakers now is working. I just want to increase the wattage going to them, right? Why do I really care to 'sum' the signals together?
I'm thinking, if I put a $20 LOC on the front speakers and send it to the amp, then back, isn't it just an amplified version of what I currently have (with Sync, navigation, phone, etc). And then I'd do the same thing with the rears, only also send the output to the sub also because it's got the full range of the signal.
I guess I'm just failing to understand why I need a signal summing device. Is there a simple answer to this? I want "better" SQ, not perfect SQ.