sharper4

I'm pretty sure I've thought of everything but I was hoping someone with knowledge could review this to make sure I'm not missing anything or buying something that is obviously the wrong item or not needed. I have aleady installed Infinity 6.829's in the doors.

The goal on this is increasing sound quality and fullness, esp at volume. I listen mostly to top 40 or country music. I don't need it to thump like a high school kid but I do want it to punch and produce clean bass lines.

- Dual FoxBox Enclosure
- Two ARC 10v3 2-ohm, 250w RMS subwoofers
- P1000x5XD Rockford Fosgate Amp (4ch x 125w RMS plus 1ch X 500w RMS)
- PEQ (Remote amp gain ****)
- 4 gauge wire kit with fuse
- Two Line Output Converters
- 10 Farad Capacitor (is this really needed)
- Speaker wire
- Plywood / Carpet to mount behind rear seat

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

- Cap is not needed.
- Make sure to get 3 sets of RCA's (good non sosche brands)
- Depending on your HU, factory or aftermarket, you may be better off with a LCQ1 or a Processor.

Whats your headunit?

sharper4

I have the Sony Navigation radio and I was planning on using it. I totally forgot about the RCAs, I'll add them to my list. And lastly, any kind of processor best? I thought the LOC was a generic version of a processor (but clearly MUCH cheaper). Is it really one of those things I shouldn't bypass? The settings on the front look totally foriegn to me.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

I'm not real familiar with the 09- present models, but you may need a signal summing device to get full range out a generic processor.

LOC just converts highlevel inputs to low level. Check some of the other threads for PAC and other devices which work much better. Someone else with a newer generation truck may chime in and help you out.

I'm not sure how the new nav. works.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning on running the 2 ohm subs in parallel? If so make sure your amp will handle the load.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

I would say the minimal that amp will run the sub load is at 2ohm. So you may want to look at that, thanks for pointing that out.

Unless you chance subs to svc 4ohm, you will have to run at 1 or 4ohms to the amp.

With the dual 4ohm, you can run 2ohms.

Got a link handy wyo? I'm at work

sharper4

I was going to use 2-ohm subs because everything else is 2-ohm and I wanted to power the door speakers and the sub with the same amp. As such, the sub channel is 1x500w RMS @ 2-ohm. So my understanding was I had to wire it like this:



Does this sound right?? ...man, I'm glad I posted this now.

But now that I look at the manual for the subs, I'm not sure what's best (parallel or series). Looks like if they're wired in parallel then it's a 1-ohm load. Is that right, and okay to do knowing the front speakers are running 2-ohm on the same amp?

http://www.arcaudio.com/pdfs/product..._12_v3-man.pdf

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

That amp is an older style rockford, correct.
But it puts out 500 @ 2ohms and 200 @ 4ohms.

Also, i cant find your subs online. They need to be "Single Voice Coil" 4ohms to get a 2ohm load. Or you need a set of "Double Voice Coil" 2ohms to get a 2ohm load.

HTXfX4

If you want to keep your sync working you will need to sum the channels with a processor. Sync only plays out of the front speakers and the front speakers and tweeters are on separate channels.

GATORB8

The wiring from the Crutchfield graphic is fine since those subs are dual voice coil.