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Would definitely not run anything more than 1,000 watts on a cheap 4 ga kit like that. Your JBL GTO amp is fused alone at 80 amps. The Hifonics 1000w is also fused at 80a.
Please, please do not run both of those amps off a single run of 4ga. You will most definitely cause damage to the truck, if not cause the wire to melt the jacket and catch the truck on fire.
I wish I could find the video, but Sean, the owner of EMF Audio, recently made a video with a FLIR thermal camera showing exactly how important it is to properly size your wiring for the load. He had wire temperatures well over 150*F purely from the load alone.
Thank you, yes that is exactly my concern along with lights etc. What fuse should I choose with that kit 150 or 200? Since they are both fused at 80? Just bought a new 2015 v8 So will be running new lines anyway That is exactly why I posted this you never know and def do not want fires lol.
Dang, how did you fit them? Did you have to raise seats? Maybe my measuring is off lol. I thought 5.50 depth mount was pushing it. Your at 6.25. Hell I will check those out and fox box as well.
Fox acoustics box fits right on and has a mounting depth of 6.25. My box was 200 and it's worth every single penny. You don't have to raise your seat up or anything
Thank you, yes that is exactly my concern along with lights etc. What fuse should I choose with that kit 150 or 200? Since they are both fused at 80? Just bought a new 2015 v8 So will be running new lines anyway That is exactly why I posted this you never know and def do not want fires lol.
Fuse at 200. After the big 3, fuse near your battery with a 200a in an ANL fuse holder. Once you get the wire into the cab, put another fuse holder in with another 200a. From there, you can break off into 2 runs of 4ga, one for each amp. That would be the cheaper way.
I am doing the same thing to an extent. Although, I went a step further. I took my power into the cab with a 2/0, so 300a. From the 2/0 fuse holder with 300a, I split into 2 runs of 1/0, short runs at that. 1 run goes to a 200a fuse holder with a 1/0 out, the other goes to a 100a holder for 4ga. The picture below lacks my middle fuse holder, the 200a, but you get what I mean.
So you could order a total of 3 ANL fuse holders, since the amp kit comes with 1, and be fully fused to the capability of the wire.
EDIT: Unsure of the exact amperage of the stock 2015 alt, but I would most definitely recommend a small powercell within the cab and eventually upgrading the primary battery to a nice AGM. Something like a pair of BlockShaker 18aH behind the rear seat, or a single XS Power XS750. It's always nice to have some extra reserve capacity in your electrical system.
Fox acoustics box fits right on and has a mounting depth of 6.25. My box was 200 and it's worth every single penny. You don't have to raise your seat up or anything
Wow, awesome. Was looking at supercrew sound and they told me it could not be done without lift. Thanks will go with a foxbox for sure, I was bummed out I could not go with the re audios or any bulkier woofers. Will be pounding in a couple months.
Fuse at 200. After the big 3, fuse near your battery with a 200a in an ANL fuse holder. Once you get the wire into the cab, put another fuse holder in with another 200a. From there, you can break off into 2 runs of 4ga, one for each amp. That would be the cheaper way.
I am doing the same thing to an extent. Although, I went a step further. I took my power into the cab with a 2/0, so 300a. From the 2/0 fuse holder with 300a, I split into 2 runs of 1/0, short runs at that. 1 run goes to a 200a fuse holder with a 1/0 out, the other goes to a 100a holder for 4ga. The picture below lacks my middle fuse holder, the 200a, but you get what I mean.
So you could order a total of 3 ANL fuse holders, since the amp kit comes with 1, and be fully fused to the capability of the wire.
EDIT: Unsure of the exact amperage of the stock 2015 alt, but I would most definitely recommend a small powercell within the cab and eventually upgrading the primary battery to a nice AGM. Something like a pair of BlockShaker 18aH behind the rear seat, or a single XS Power XS750. It's always nice to have some extra reserve capacity in your electrical system.
Thanks you for info. Yeah that would give me some room to upgrade etc in future One question excuse my ignorance but why would you put more than one fuse on the amp power line? I have only ever seen one fuse near battery. But I have never went over 800 watts on a system either. Will prob get a power cell to get it up and running and try to get away from upgrading battery and etc till I get some more cash in a couple months. Thank you for the links and help. Really helps me out building this system.
I just did two fuses to avoid the need to buy an expensive distribution block. ANL fuse holders are like $10, whilst 2/0 distro blocks are quite pricey.
If you are to do the secondary battery, you wouldn't need another fuse to act as a distribution block. Just fuse off the main battery, bring the 1/0 to the secondary battery, then fuse the 4ga runs off of it going to the amps.
Stock 200amp alt is awesome. That is plenty of power for 200a.
No problem on the help buddy. I like doing it. It's a hobby that's a pretty big part of my life, and I enjoy seeing people do it the right way.
Different vehicles, but here's my high power story
The first car was a 94 Cougar. I ran an Earthquake sub amp. I forgot the model, but it's birth sheet rated it at about 1500w @ 2 ohms. I had it on one of the original L7 15's in a ported box. I also had an IDQ15, wired to 8 ohms in the trunk with a way to swap between the two subs from the driver's seat. So, I could drive the L7 at 2 ohms (1500w) or the IDQ at 8 ohms (4-500'ish watts). I had about 200w going to each side for my front stage with no rear fill. I ran a dedicated 4 awg wire for the Earthquake and another 4 awg wire for the front stage amps, crossover, EQ and other things. Did I have dimming? You bet when I was running the L7. It wasn't really noticeable at normal listening levels, but it damned sure was when it was blasting.
Now, my 99 Grand Prix
I ran a JL 500/1, birth sheeted at about 700w. Now, I can't remember if this was actually a birth sheet with the amp, or if was an article I read that said the amp was really underrated. Either way, it was good for about 700w. This was running a 10w7. My front stage was now up to 300w per side. I ran the same power wire arrangement and had some dimming when blasting and none when at normal listening levels...which is too loud for a conversation, but not blasting in my world.
I did the big 3, using double 4awg runs for each line in the Grand Prix, but not the Cougar. Before doing the big 3, the grand prix was dimming about like the Cougar did. It really helped keep up with the high draw of the stereo when it was cranking. When I do it on my truck, I'll order 2 or 0 awg cable for the runs. I only used double 4awg runs because I had extra wire and was a broke high school kid. Keep in mind, it takes 3 runs of the smaller size to equal the larger wire. I.E. 3 runs of 8awg roughly equal a single 4awg strand.
I've been distracted since reading your OP, and I'm not familiar with your amps, so I'll just tell you what I'd do for a high power stereo.
First, I'd go over to bcae1.com and check their wire size vs current chart and select a wire size one step bigger than it says I need. It's under their 'wire' section. So, if you have 2x 1000w class D amps, I'd run a single 0awg wire, or two 4 awg wires. The choice between 2 vs 1 wire would be based on what I have on hand, how separated the amps will be, physically, and an overall cost assessment. Remember, going from 0awg to two amps will require a distro block and a few feet of 4 or 2 awg wire. But, 2 runs of 4 awg wire might take 2 fuse holders, unless you use one that attaches to the batt post and serves as a fused distro block. Basically, there are a few ways to skin this cat.
After the amp, I'd use a distro block to sum the two grounds and terminate them to the chassis with a single 0 awg wire. I've used separate grounding runs and single runs and found that multiple grounds, even if bolted at the same spot (think stacked ring terminals under one screw) introduce the possibility for more noise from a ground loop.
Also, for anyone who hasn't read it and isn't an electrical engineer, spend a few hours going through bcae1.com. It is full of really good basic and advanced info with respect to car audio and electronics in general. It's a really simple site, but it's been around for years and is very informative.
10-29-2015, 01:11 PM
So will be running new lines anyway
