Building For Quality Sound Recommendations Wanted
#11
Always go by RMS numbers, or "nominal power". This is the true power level rather than the imaginary numbers achieved the same day the stars are aligned and Justin Bieber makes good music.
If you're running a pair of subs, get a class D mono (single output) amplifier or a two channel amplifier. Don't bother bridging channels and messing with complicated wiring plans. If you aren't familiar with all the terminology, crutchfield.com has some awesome intro to car audio articles that explain important concepts in simple terms.
If you're running a pair of subs, get a class D mono (single output) amplifier or a two channel amplifier. Don't bother bridging channels and messing with complicated wiring plans. If you aren't familiar with all the terminology, crutchfield.com has some awesome intro to car audio articles that explain important concepts in simple terms.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the responses. I guess the age-old question now becomes do you really get what you pay for? I can pay theoretically $500 for a JL amp or $200 for saying a PPI am with more power or a pioneer amp. With all the options it's hard to know which way to go. frustrations frustrations.
#13
You get what you pay for to a certain extent. Do your homework and read the crutchfield articles so you know what to look for in technical specs. For better pricing check out sonicelectronix.com - their prices are competitive and their customer service is awesome.
#14
Senior Member
I can say that the NVX amps have been great. I had the 4 channel fail a few weeks after install and NVX replaced it. They were knowledgable and helpful on the phone. They asked about my setup and verified it was OK. The amps are small enough to fit under the radio in the center stack. No need to run power wiring behind the rear seat as most do. Also no need to run speaker wiring from the head unit to behind the back seat then turn around and run the amp outputs back to the head unit where they connect to the factory speaker wiring.
NVX MVPA-4 (100W per ch X 4 @ 2Ω):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA4.html
NVX MVPA-1 (300W X 1ch @ 2Ω):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA1.html
At about $150 a piece they are a great value especially when considering the lesser amount of wiring. I installed an 8ga wiring kit http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-XAPK8.html
$40 and ran the + wire from the battery thru the pass grommet ending at the center of the dash where I split it into 2 10ga to fed the amps. The grounds tie to the structure that supports the dash. That kit has more than enough speaker wire to wire the 4ch amp to the door speakers using the factory wiring. I ran 10 ga wire to my sub which sits under the narrow back seat on the pass side. That was the longest wire run of all.
NVX MVPA-4 (100W per ch X 4 @ 2Ω):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA4.html
NVX MVPA-1 (300W X 1ch @ 2Ω):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA1.html
At about $150 a piece they are a great value especially when considering the lesser amount of wiring. I installed an 8ga wiring kit http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-XAPK8.html
$40 and ran the + wire from the battery thru the pass grommet ending at the center of the dash where I split it into 2 10ga to fed the amps. The grounds tie to the structure that supports the dash. That kit has more than enough speaker wire to wire the 4ch amp to the door speakers using the factory wiring. I ran 10 ga wire to my sub which sits under the narrow back seat on the pass side. That was the longest wire run of all.