SSGT_B

So I have read way too much lately yet not enough probably. I am in the market for subs, box, amps, speakers. As for subs I have been recommended 2 JL 10w1 by a shop that I have before. I have used the 10w3s in my Vette and they sounded great. As I read more about clean sound and "SPL??" I have seen to find the highest rated DB rated sub as it will produce more sound cleaner than one with less DB at same power rating. SO, in liu of that I have found some Pioneer TS-W261 S which have a DB sensitivity of 93 and frequency response of 20-125hz. The JL counterpart has a sensitivity DB of 84.2 and frequency response of 25-250hz for 80$$ more. both handle 300W rms so which one would be better for the money? Additionally what amp is needed to push them? Any recommendations is welcomed for either ones mentioned or others.

As for my music styles, I listen to mostly old rock, country, very little rap however my wife cranks out the dance and hip hop. I like bass but Im not into competition or vibrating my windows out so the neighborhood can hear me 3 miles away.

Thanks
07 KR Super Crew

Forgot to mention, my budget ideally would be under 800

Heavy_Metal

Since you're on a budget id definitely go Pioneer (or other) here. The efficiency of it/ them are much much better. Personally ten years ago i went with Audiobahn simply bc of their efficiency. (And value of course).

SSGT_B

Trying to find decent audio is like trying to find a good steak at a price you can swallow lol

That said, what are some other decent brands? In my day all the rave was a punch 40, alpine tape deck and some 6x9s. Lots has changed since the mid 80s.

Feathermerchant

Yes it has. I have a JL Audio 10" in a custom box driven by an NVX 300W class D amp. It is all I need. I like it so much that I added the same sub to my 2005 Magnum.

Heavy_Metal

Id suggest a mono class d amp which does away with the bridging of yesteryear. They've changed subwoofers a bit by adding another voice coil which makes planning your system a lot easier. It allows you to match your ohm load to your amp easier. For example, you have your amp rated at 500 watts (rms or nominal) and its stable at a 2 ohm load. You can hook up either a single, dual 4 ohm voice coil sub or two single 4 ohm voice coil subs which is how mine is set up

I went that way because i wasnt worried about space in the back of my old Explorer. Now I kinda wish I had a single sub to save room under the back seat. Eh, it is what it is. FWIW Ive had the same setup for about ten years now. Its time for a new amp as mine started humming loudly on occasion. I did like using Crutchfield mainly because they have good customer service which allowed me to install myself. They just dont carry some of the popular brands kids love these days.

Just do your research before you get in over your head. Your budget is fine for a subwoofer or two, box and amp. If youre thrifty you could pull off some door speakers too. Ive got about $500 into subs and $200 for door speakers (Alpine 5x7). Add around $50 for wiring too.

SSGT_B

Thanks. SO heres a question just to be sure I understand it. looking at amps and Im reading:
GM-D8604 - Pioneer 1200W Max Class FD Bridgeable Amplifier
Continuous Power Output (4 Ω, ≤ 1% THD+N): 100 W x 4

does that mean 100W RMS per speaker or is that number divided by for and its only 25w RMS per speaker? Is this good for components in the front and 2ways in the back?

Also looking at:
GM-D9601 - Pioneer Monoblock 2400W Max Class D GM Series Car Amplifier

for the subs. Is this overkill or junk? They are FAR cheaper than the JL amps I was looking at

Feathermerchant

That means 100W per channel (speaker). Find out if it is RMS or just some marketing value.

As far as 2400W for the subs, if that is RMS then it is crazy. You'll need no more than 1,000W. I have one 10" JL Audio and a 300W monoblock NVX MVPA1 (300W @2Ω) and it is plenty.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NVX-MVPA1.html

Kraken

If you are on a budget this is the amp to get. Get a matching 2 ohm sub to go with it.

Precision Power PPI900.5

freddyttt

love my PP amp....

Heavy_Metal

I wouldnt bother with the 4 channel amp for subs. Thats why they have the single channel amps now. That would work great for the doors though.

2400 is their peak out put rating hence the "max". It would run a couple of 10 just fine. FWIW I didnt look it up, just going by whats written. Ive got a bunch of tabs open looking for wheels and tires.