Best audio for around a grand?
06-25-2012, 10:42 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Best audio for around a grand?
Looking to get a new sound system in my truck, just change out the speakers and get a sub. Don't want to mess with the with the actual system though. I have a 2011 XLT with the Sync/Sony audio system.
06-25-2012, 11:12 AM
#2
I would say you've got the basic idea down, but having the Sony system will hurt the total cost since its far more complex.
Starters would be IMO order of importance:
Signal processor
Components up front
Coax in the rear
Pair speakers with an amp (5 channel)
Sub of your liking.
Can be done under a grand if you go with Infinity or Polk, etc... and install it yourself.
Best bet might be to have a reputable audio shop quote you, can't hurt anything.
Starters would be IMO order of importance:
Signal processor
Components up front
Coax in the rear
Pair speakers with an amp (5 channel)
Sub of your liking.
Can be done under a grand if you go with Infinity or Polk, etc... and install it yourself.
Best bet might be to have a reputable audio shop quote you, can't hurt anything.
06-25-2012, 11:24 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by StuckZipper
I would say you've got the basic idea down, but having the Sony system will hurt the total cost since its far more complex.
Starters would be IMO order of importance:
Signal processor
Components up front
Coax in the rear
Pair speakers with an amp (5 channel)
Sub of your liking.
Can be done under a grand if you go with Infinity or Polk, etc... and install it yourself.
Best bet might be to have a reputable audio shop quote you, can't hurt anything.
Starters would be IMO order of importance:
Signal processor
Components up front
Coax in the rear
Pair speakers with an amp (5 channel)
Sub of your liking.
Can be done under a grand if you go with Infinity or Polk, etc... and install it yourself.
Best bet might be to have a reputable audio shop quote you, can't hurt anything.
06-25-2012, 02:54 PM
#4
Senior Member
you can definitely keep Sync.
It depends how much amplification you want on whether or not you bypass the Sony. Tough thing about the Sony is that it has an integrated DSP/Amplifier which runs an active crossover on the front mids and tweets (two separate signals).
If you don't want to amplify the doors, you should be able to swap out the mid for a component mid, and the tweeter for a component tweeter and throw some coaxs in the rears. The sub becomes really easy, because the harness at your stock sub already has an RCA level signal in it, just run some power wire throw in your new box/amp/sub and you're ready to go.
If you're going to amp the doors, you may as well grab the full range stereo signal before it hits the Sony DSP/Amp.
It depends how much amplification you want on whether or not you bypass the Sony. Tough thing about the Sony is that it has an integrated DSP/Amplifier which runs an active crossover on the front mids and tweets (two separate signals).
If you don't want to amplify the doors, you should be able to swap out the mid for a component mid, and the tweeter for a component tweeter and throw some coaxs in the rears. The sub becomes really easy, because the harness at your stock sub already has an RCA level signal in it, just run some power wire throw in your new box/amp/sub and you're ready to go.
If you're going to amp the doors, you may as well grab the full range stereo signal before it hits the Sony DSP/Amp.