Basic audio upgrade build - 2016 XLT Screw Non Sony
#51
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Ok, so now that we know this, sorry I'm sure you disclosed this before, i would have them noise test the Audi control to rule it out, then the amp. Clark and Nav one have an excellent write up on how to do this perfectly.... saved me hours of diagnosis. Let us know what you discover, but I'm thinking it's either the amp or the DSP.
#52
Member
Thread Starter
I would take it back to the installer again and ask them about the noise. Using speaker level inputs will create more "noise" but I am not sure why you are hearing it if the radio is off. If the volume is low then you will hear it. I simple fix would be to use a low level converter on the speaker wires they are running to the amp high level inputs now and plug them into the low level inputs.
#53
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
#55
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
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#57
Member
Thread Starter
You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
#58
Mass Effect
You're getting noise because the amp is still on after you turn the radio off. Aftermarket head units have a turn on lead that turns the amp on when it's on and off when it's off. The stock head unit doesn't have this so they've probably wired it in to a fuse that is powered with the ignition. Some processors like the JL Audio Clean Sweep and some higher end amps have a current sensing feature which turns the amp on when it senses current thru the speaker leads.
50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.
50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.
Last edited by _MacLeod_; 10-10-2016 at 01:43 AM.
#59
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You're getting noise because the amp is still on after you turn the radio off. Aftermarket head units have a turn on lead that turns the amp on when it's on and off when it's off. The stock head unit doesn't have this so they've probably wired it in to a fuse that is powered with the ignition. Some processors like the JL Audio Clean Sweep and some higher end amps have a current sensing feature which turns the amp on when it senses current thru the speaker leads.
50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.
50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.
#60
Member
Thread Starter
I wanted to provide an update. I took out my bulkier Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 sub and replaced with a JL Audio 10TW1-2. I built the box this weekend and installed...I like it! it doesn't rattle the windows but plenty of good, musical bass.
I used 3/4" MDF and built a basic sealed enclosure to the manual's specs. I used Liquid Nails on every joint, used it again like caulking on every corner on interior and exterior, nailed, and screwed. I used caulking around the wire 3" terminal cup. I built my last box and this method proved air tight with heavy use for over 10 years. I sold it before I saw any issues.
I used 3/4" MDF and built a basic sealed enclosure to the manual's specs. I used Liquid Nails on every joint, used it again like caulking on every corner on interior and exterior, nailed, and screwed. I used caulking around the wire 3" terminal cup. I built my last box and this method proved air tight with heavy use for over 10 years. I sold it before I saw any issues.