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Basic audio upgrade build - 2016 XLT Screw Non Sony

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Old 10-07-2016, 04:06 PM
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Ok, so now that we know this, sorry I'm sure you disclosed this before, i would have them noise test the Audi control to rule it out, then the amp. Clark and Nav one have an excellent write up on how to do this perfectly.... saved me hours of diagnosis. Let us know what you discover, but I'm thinking it's either the amp or the DSP.
Old 10-07-2016, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
I would take it back to the installer again and ask them about the noise. Using speaker level inputs will create more "noise" but I am not sure why you are hearing it if the radio is off. If the volume is low then you will hear it. I simple fix would be to use a low level converter on the speaker wires they are running to the amp high level inputs now and plug them into the low level inputs.
I may take it in to bring this point up. I am not familiar with the low level converter. Pic attached of the DQ 61

Old 10-07-2016, 04:45 PM
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You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
Old 10-07-2016, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bucksnrt
Well, I do have an Audio Control DQ-61 which is an EQ and signal processor. I believe high level inputs were used. They emphasised the incoming signal from the factory radio was really crap. I figured that's where the DQ-61 came in to play.
Good to know. Yes the DQ-61 should clean that up. I would question the installer about the noise.
Old 10-07-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
That's a fact Jack!
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:22 PM
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Bro your one of the FEW that I know, knows his audio stuff...lol. we could chat car audio for hours, I'm sure.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
You DONT need a low level converter. The EQ takes hi level in and converts it to low level via RCA outs to your amp. The issue, again, may very well be with the EQ or amp. An LOC was suggested IF the inputs from your HU were routed directly to your amp's hi level inputs...this is not the case.
Got it, thanks. I will be taking it in, hoping nothing is faulty.

Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
Good to know. Yes the DQ-61 should clean that up. I would question the installer about the noise.
Will do!

Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
That's a fact Jack!
Old 10-10-2016, 01:39 AM
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You're getting noise because the amp is still on after you turn the radio off. Aftermarket head units have a turn on lead that turns the amp on when it's on and off when it's off. The stock head unit doesn't have this so they've probably wired it in to a fuse that is powered with the ignition. Some processors like the JL Audio Clean Sweep and some higher end amps have a current sensing feature which turns the amp on when it senses current thru the speaker leads.

50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.

Last edited by _MacLeod_; 10-10-2016 at 01:43 AM.
Old 10-10-2016, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by _MacLeod_
You're getting noise because the amp is still on after you turn the radio off. Aftermarket head units have a turn on lead that turns the amp on when it's on and off when it's off. The stock head unit doesn't have this so they've probably wired it in to a fuse that is powered with the ignition. Some processors like the JL Audio Clean Sweep and some higher end amps have a current sensing feature which turns the amp on when it senses current thru the speaker leads.

50% gain also sounds a bit high so you can adjust it down a little to help. And you should be able to adjust the output levels of the Audiocontrol unit to cut down on the hiss. You're right tho, the tuning is the most important part of an install. Apparently they didn't tune it properly the first time. After you took it back to them they spent some more time with it. Tuning is most definitely an art and is very time consuming. Some shops will just do a quick basic tune and send it out the door. For most people this is fine but for picky listeners, it ain't.
Correct. I didn't even think of this because I thought any installer worth a crap wouldn't do it this way.
Old 01-03-2017, 12:22 PM
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I wanted to provide an update. I took out my bulkier Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 sub and replaced with a JL Audio 10TW1-2. I built the box this weekend and installed...I like it! it doesn't rattle the windows but plenty of good, musical bass.

I used 3/4" MDF and built a basic sealed enclosure to the manual's specs. I used Liquid Nails on every joint, used it again like caulking on every corner on interior and exterior, nailed, and screwed. I used caulking around the wire 3" terminal cup. I built my last box and this method proved air tight with heavy use for over 10 years. I sold it before I saw any issues.

















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