Anyone not running rear speakers in a Screw?
#1
Anyone not running rear speakers in a Screw?
I am thinking about changing up my system and going active with a DSP or possibly a new HU that will handle sound processing.
With some research on other forums, it seems most guys run 2 or 3 way up front and just a sub in the rear of their vehicles. Is anyone running their Screw like this and skipping rear doors altogether?
Would I see any real benefit in "fill" with the rear doors while using a DSP? Could it actually hurt more than it helps with staging?
Thanks,
troutspinner
With some research on other forums, it seems most guys run 2 or 3 way up front and just a sub in the rear of their vehicles. Is anyone running their Screw like this and skipping rear doors altogether?
Would I see any real benefit in "fill" with the rear doors while using a DSP? Could it actually hurt more than it helps with staging?
Thanks,
troutspinner
#2
Seņor Member
You will notice the difference if you remove the rear door speakers all together.
For the front passengers the rear speakers provide the extra needed dimension. Rear passengers will feel like they are still on the bass drum.
Try it out. Put the fade all the way to the front and see how you like it.
What kind of system are you going for? Clarity, ultimate performance, Bass head? All three have different setups. Most important is HU choice, Amp and crossover setup. For speakers once you get into to better materials you can make any of them sounds good with the right frequency settings.
Clarity = HU, Components up front, Coax in back, 8 or 10 in sub, 4ch amp for doors, mono for sub.
Ultimate = HU, triaxial up front, components in rear, 10in sub, 2 2ch amps for doors, mono amp for sub.
Bass head = Either from above, change to two 12" subs, two mono amps, added battery, upgrade alternator.
Budget and desire are your guide.
-Jamie
For the front passengers the rear speakers provide the extra needed dimension. Rear passengers will feel like they are still on the bass drum.
Try it out. Put the fade all the way to the front and see how you like it.
What kind of system are you going for? Clarity, ultimate performance, Bass head? All three have different setups. Most important is HU choice, Amp and crossover setup. For speakers once you get into to better materials you can make any of them sounds good with the right frequency settings.
Clarity = HU, Components up front, Coax in back, 8 or 10 in sub, 4ch amp for doors, mono for sub.
Ultimate = HU, triaxial up front, components in rear, 10in sub, 2 2ch amps for doors, mono amp for sub.
Bass head = Either from above, change to two 12" subs, two mono amps, added battery, upgrade alternator.
Budget and desire are your guide.
-Jamie
#3
I have some time right now so I am going to go "mess around".
Thanks
#4
Seņor Member
Nice!
Then it comes down to tuning for your system.
There are some great videos on YouTube about amp and crossover tuning. Some of them use special devices, you there are others doing by ear.
Set your crossover points, that would make a big difference.
Make sure your amp gain isn't over powering anything.
-Jamie
Then it comes down to tuning for your system.
There are some great videos on YouTube about amp and crossover tuning. Some of them use special devices, you there are others doing by ear.
Set your crossover points, that would make a big difference.
Make sure your amp gain isn't over powering anything.
-Jamie
#5
I just tinkered and yeah, those rear doors are needed. I can turn up the gain on the sub and bring the frequency up to 100 and it creates a decent fill but not the sound I am looking for, though it does really show the quality/clarity of the Helix E62C's I have up front.
I think some higher quality rear speakers (currently RF Prime 1682's) to match the Helix up front is in order. I'll see how that sounds for a while and see if a DSP is in order down the road.
Thanks!
I think some higher quality rear speakers (currently RF Prime 1682's) to match the Helix up front is in order. I'll see how that sounds for a while and see if a DSP is in order down the road.
Thanks!
#6
Senior Member
I removed the rears in my Scab when I did mine 4 years or so ago, I wouldn't do it again, even in a Scab it's nice to have the rear fill for daily listening.
You may just want to try bandpassing your rear doors, which would help keep your soundstage up front. That would also allow you to just get a nice component mid.
You may just want to try bandpassing your rear doors, which would help keep your soundstage up front. That would also allow you to just get a nice component mid.
#7
I don't run rear speakers in any vehicle I drive. I know sound is subjective, but I just can't believe anyone actually prefers the sound with rear speakers. My stereo is stock right now and I have it faded all the way to the front
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks Mody and Gator. Your comments forced me to do some reading today and watch some videos and I had that "I get it" moment about tuning.
I won't go into the nuances of where I went wrong (everywhere ) and used my new "I get it" knowledge and adjusted everything from scratch. I ended up filtering to what my ears liked which turned out to be around 65Hz and wow, what a difference in overall quality.
I just spent about 2 hours listening to it, all different genres of music and I am hearing things I have never heard in songs before that I listen to every day, and from directions that never before existed. I'll rescind my earlier thought about going active, it is perfect and downright impressive now and is able to go even louder now that I am properly filtering.
Just for yucks, my Pioneer HU has Sonic Control (Poor man's Time Alignment) so I tinkered with that too. While there was some benefit, the best setting was just +2 to the left telling me that my timing is pretty good. Pretty much useless if I have passengers enjoying the tunes as well though.
I won't doubt what a good DSP could do but I think I am finally happy.....Although I still want a new HU for navigation and such.
Thanks again,
troutspinner
I won't go into the nuances of where I went wrong (everywhere ) and used my new "I get it" knowledge and adjusted everything from scratch. I ended up filtering to what my ears liked which turned out to be around 65Hz and wow, what a difference in overall quality.
I just spent about 2 hours listening to it, all different genres of music and I am hearing things I have never heard in songs before that I listen to every day, and from directions that never before existed. I'll rescind my earlier thought about going active, it is perfect and downright impressive now and is able to go even louder now that I am properly filtering.
Just for yucks, my Pioneer HU has Sonic Control (Poor man's Time Alignment) so I tinkered with that too. While there was some benefit, the best setting was just +2 to the left telling me that my timing is pretty good. Pretty much useless if I have passengers enjoying the tunes as well though.
I won't doubt what a good DSP could do but I think I am finally happy.....Although I still want a new HU for navigation and such.
Thanks again,
troutspinner