Another Stereo question thread... Good basic $700ish setup
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help guys, I really do appreciate it.
I think I have it narrowed down to the following
1.) Sub=JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 -$260 (JL has great reviews for SQ over SQL)
2.) Amp=MTX thunder500.1 $139 (Nothing but rave reviews on this amp)
3.) Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface $34
4.) Knukonceptz 8ga amp kit $27
It will run about $470. I could save $50 by getting it from Amazon, but Jl & MTX Won't honor their warranty, so it is off to crutch field I go. Plus they have great tech help if I need it. It was a hard choice between the JL and alpine subs. But JL seems to be better at sound quality than just loudness. I could have saved about $100 as the alpine Sbr-s83v$(200) has been replaced by the Sbr-s8-4($150), JL CP108LG-W3v3($260)
I think I have it narrowed down to the following
1.) Sub=JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 -$260 (JL has great reviews for SQ over SQL)
2.) Amp=MTX thunder500.1 $139 (Nothing but rave reviews on this amp)
3.) Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface $34
4.) Knukonceptz 8ga amp kit $27
It will run about $470. I could save $50 by getting it from Amazon, but Jl & MTX Won't honor their warranty, so it is off to crutch field I go. Plus they have great tech help if I need it. It was a hard choice between the JL and alpine subs. But JL seems to be better at sound quality than just loudness. I could have saved about $100 as the alpine Sbr-s83v$(200) has been replaced by the Sbr-s8-4($150), JL CP108LG-W3v3($260)
Last edited by mptoledo; 11-14-2013 at 04:56 PM.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The only reason I haven't pull the trigger is my concern that the amp might be too powerful for the JL sub. amp is 300 rms at 4ohm and the sub is 250 rms at 4ohm. IS that too much? I know you can turn the amp down. Plus my "bonus check" was a little more than I anticipated so I might upgrade the HU to either a pioneer or JVC non nav touch screen rather than using a small alpine KTP-445U to pump up the fronts. I have used JVC in the past (single din) and have been extremely happy with them.
Since I don't use my truck as much in the winter, I might wait a few weeks until the Black Friday/Christmas sales start and we are about due for model change on quite a bit of stuff.
Since I don't use my truck as much in the winter, I might wait a few weeks until the Black Friday/Christmas sales start and we are about due for model change on quite a bit of stuff.
Last edited by mptoledo; 11-15-2013 at 09:47 AM.
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
The only reason I haven't pull the trigger is my concern that the amp might be too powerful for the JL sub. amp is 300 rms at 4ohm and the sub is 250 rms at 4ohm. IS that too much? I know you can turn the amp down. Plus my "bonus check" was a little more than I anticipated so I might upgrade the HU to either a pioneer or JVC non nav touch screen rather than using a small alpine KTP-445U to pump up the fronts. I have used JVC in the past (single din) and have been extremely happy with them.
Since I don't use my truck as much in the winter, I might wait a few weeks until the Black Friday/Christmas sales start and we are about due for model change on quite a bit of stuff.
Since I don't use my truck as much in the winter, I might wait a few weeks until the Black Friday/Christmas sales start and we are about due for model change on quite a bit of stuff.
The following users liked this post:
mptoledo (11-15-2013)
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So far I am leaning towards the JVC Arsenal KW-ADV65BT. It has 4v preouts, remote and 20W out for my speakers. I will look at yours also as I haven't made my mind up yet. The new models of Pioneer are just about to be released and the other MFG's look like they come out for sale in Jan-Feb. No real hurry as a couple more weeks and I will hit the start of the Christmas sales
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
UDPATE on my completed project!!
I finally got everything put in place and it sounds amazing. Can't imagine it, but it should sound better in a couple weeks when everything gets broken in. I did keep the original head unit and it sounds great. I am waiting until the new line of HUs come out at the begining of the year to see if I will replace that also.
My total cost was $701. $1 over budget
My Setup:
AMP MTX Thunder500.1 $140 Crutch
SUBWOOFER Alpine Sbr-s8-4 8" $148 Amazon
Speakers Kappa 682.9CF $159 Amazon
Amp MTX TD75.4 $100 Crutch
Pac PAC AOEM-FRD24 $34 Amazon
wire 6ga & 8ga Kits Knukon $120 Knukonconceptz
Keep in mind my object was to get great sound quality and good bass, rather than loudness. Both objectives were definately met including loudness. I definately recommend this setup to Everybody!!
I did run new quality 14ga speaker wire to all 4 door speakers and the kits from Knukon had just enough wire for everything!! The front doors were a PITA as I had to dremmel a little slot in the platic wireharness in the front frames to feed the speaker wires. The rears needed no altering. Took about 6 hours the first time, but if I had to do it again, it would be less than 2 hours
I finally got everything put in place and it sounds amazing. Can't imagine it, but it should sound better in a couple weeks when everything gets broken in. I did keep the original head unit and it sounds great. I am waiting until the new line of HUs come out at the begining of the year to see if I will replace that also.
My total cost was $701. $1 over budget
My Setup:
AMP MTX Thunder500.1 $140 Crutch
SUBWOOFER Alpine Sbr-s8-4 8" $148 Amazon
Speakers Kappa 682.9CF $159 Amazon
Amp MTX TD75.4 $100 Crutch
Pac PAC AOEM-FRD24 $34 Amazon
wire 6ga & 8ga Kits Knukon $120 Knukonconceptz
Keep in mind my object was to get great sound quality and good bass, rather than loudness. Both objectives were definately met including loudness. I definately recommend this setup to Everybody!!
I did run new quality 14ga speaker wire to all 4 door speakers and the kits from Knukon had just enough wire for everything!! The front doors were a PITA as I had to dremmel a little slot in the platic wireharness in the front frames to feed the speaker wires. The rears needed no altering. Took about 6 hours the first time, but if I had to do it again, it would be less than 2 hours
Last edited by mptoledo; 12-01-2013 at 04:26 PM.
#18
Junior Member
Mptoledo, that sounds like am awesome sey up.I've been pondering an amp and sub. Did you split the signal at the PAC to get your signal for both amps or did you take output from one amp to the other? I'm do jealous.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I split the rear channel right before the amps to feed both of them(RCA Y). As long as you don't use your fader you can use just the rears. I tried to use both fronts and rears into the sub amp, but I was getting bleeding issues in my door speakers.
These are the best deals on quality cables, I used a 4ga and 8ga amp kit(perfect amount of cables) plus you need 1 extra 60amp fuse block(get extra fuses 5 pack), a distribution block and two rca Y adapters(1femal into 2 males) http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Amp%20Installation%20Ki ts
As for power, took my 4ga from the battery(90amp fuse 12" from battery) to a distribution block, split it into 2 8ga with 2 60amp fuses 3" from the block.
These are the best deals on quality cables, I used a 4ga and 8ga amp kit(perfect amount of cables) plus you need 1 extra 60amp fuse block(get extra fuses 5 pack), a distribution block and two rca Y adapters(1femal into 2 males) http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Amp%20Installation%20Ki ts
As for power, took my 4ga from the battery(90amp fuse 12" from battery) to a distribution block, split it into 2 8ga with 2 60amp fuses 3" from the block.
Last edited by mptoledo; 12-04-2013 at 11:00 AM.
#20
Hey guys… All good recommendations but another one (especially in mptoledo's case) would be a ThunderForm subwoofer system. He isn't looking for window rattling bass and ThunderForms are designed to be an upgrade from the factory system and help to put the subs and enclosure in space that you don't use (under the seat, behind the seat, etc…).
They come loaded with subwoofers, amplified with subwoofers and an onboard amp, or unloaded (no subs, just the box). The enclosure is digitally designed to contour to your specific year make and model of interior so they will fit perfectly.
The 2010 F150 Supercab model installs under the rear passenger seat with no loss of leg room. Fiberglass construction. They can be a bit more than a pre fab box setup but its basically the price you pay to get something that is going to take advantage of every nook and cranny to get as much space as possible for your sub enclosure volume and still keep it out of the way so you don't lose any leg room. Also great to keep the gear out of plain sight so it doesn't get stolen.
Just another option to consider no matter what brand you choose. Vehicle specific enclosures are great for applications like this one.
http://www.mtx.com/_mtx+mobile+singl...p=ThunderForms
They come loaded with subwoofers, amplified with subwoofers and an onboard amp, or unloaded (no subs, just the box). The enclosure is digitally designed to contour to your specific year make and model of interior so they will fit perfectly.
The 2010 F150 Supercab model installs under the rear passenger seat with no loss of leg room. Fiberglass construction. They can be a bit more than a pre fab box setup but its basically the price you pay to get something that is going to take advantage of every nook and cranny to get as much space as possible for your sub enclosure volume and still keep it out of the way so you don't lose any leg room. Also great to keep the gear out of plain sight so it doesn't get stolen.
Just another option to consider no matter what brand you choose. Vehicle specific enclosures are great for applications like this one.
http://www.mtx.com/_mtx+mobile+singl...p=ThunderForms