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AMP turn on signal Wire...Need quick advice!

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Old 11-26-2010, 11:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HornyFrog07
Yeah. And best I can tell, NONE of the wires out of the factory head unit can be spliced into to meet that remote turn on requirement. If I hadn't figured out that my amp can detect a signal from the RCAs and turn on that way, I'd still be working on it.

I spent the better part of 3.5 hours going thru and splicing into wiring this afternoon, eventually going thru every wire in both harnesses on the HU except the front speakers.

This is the wiring diagram best I have found:

2009 Ford F150 Car Radio Wiring Instructions

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Maroon
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: ????WTF???
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Violet/Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Violet/Red - copied from F250 diagram....I did not see a violet/red wire best I remember.
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

It's the same as the F250 diagram, except for the blue wire on an F250 is the switched accessory.

If anybody figures out what the remote turn on wire is, let me know please. I've got the setup working thru the RCAs now, but for some reason it just doesn't sound the same.
i believe 06 up fords do not have switched 12v in factory harness. i have installed several and i normally use PAC harness which provides jumper location for switched 12v. however if not installing after market HU there is no need for PAC harness so use switched 12v fuse.

if its making a noise try using a diff fuse
Old 11-27-2010, 12:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Grantasaurus
See image below for where I tapped into mine. The blue connector was some sort of pre-wired plug that was hidden behind the back panel fabric. It was hot on the accessories position of the ignition switch.


I had originally used that one as well, but when I turn my defroster switch on, the power goes off with it there.

I used a fuse tap and just tapped into the factory stereo fuse. Works great for me.
Old 11-29-2010, 09:24 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Grantasaurus
See image below for where I tapped into mine. The blue connector was some sort of pre-wired plug that was hidden behind the back panel fabric. It was hot on the accessories position of the ignition switch.




That is a great picture grantman. That blue connector goes to the rear window defrost grid, when so equipped.

Thanks
Old 11-29-2010, 03:19 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ray21
I had originally used that one as well, but when I turn my defroster switch on, the power goes off with it there.

I used a fuse tap and just tapped into the factory stereo fuse. Works great for me.
Thanks for the heads up. That would have been disappointing to have that happen the first time I run the defroster (which I don't use often here in Houston). Used add-a-fuse and tapped into stereo wire in passenger kick panel fuse box instead. Works great.



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