amp & sub trouble...
#1
Member
Thread Starter
amp & sub trouble...
I have a 11 supercrew and I bought a kicker dx250.1 amp and Im using one of my older kicker cvr 10s in just a single truck box under the seat. my truck has sync but does not have the factory sub or anything, anyway im using the stock head unit and i bought a PAC converter. I hooked the amp and everthing up, I ran the converter to the passenger side rear door speaker wires going up the post, just using one speaker, on the converter I used the left side + and the right side - and the amp says it can turn on by the signal it gets from the speakers and not have to run a remote wire, anyway its not turnin on, I can bridge power from the power wire to the remote and the amp will turn on, but no sound, i have checked the wires and the connections seem fine, Im stumped, I have never used a converter I have always had aftermarket headunits with pre outs, soo.. any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I have a 11 supercrew and I bought a kicker dx250.1 amp and Im using one of my older kicker cvr 10s in just a single truck box under the seat. my truck has sync but does not have the factory sub or anything, anyway im using the stock head unit and i bought a PAC converter. I hooked the amp and everthing up, I ran the converter to the passenger side rear door speaker wires going up the post, just using one speaker, on the converter I used the left side + and the right side - and the amp says it can turn on by the signal it gets from the speakers and not have to run a remote wire, anyway its not turnin on, I can bridge power from the power wire to the remote and the amp will turn on, but no sound, i have checked the wires and the connections seem fine, Im stumped, I have never used a converter I have always had aftermarket headunits with pre outs, soo.. any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks
#3
Member
Thread Starter
the guy at the stereo shop that sold the converter to me said that if I didnt want to hook up both sides of the speakers on the truck I could do that so I would have both RCA jacks working and get full range out of the converter
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Unless the PAC you are using is alot different than most LOC's I've used, your amp should at least have some output using only one speaker for connection. The signal would either be L or R, depending on how you wired it.
On almost all LOC's you can get a mono signal using only one side of that channel. To get the full range (L and R ) of that channel you will need to hook the other side of the converter to the other speaker in the door.
As for it not turning on, I am assuming this is a voltage detection system. The one side might not allow enough current for the amp to sense anything, thus requiring both inputs.
I would suggest running a wire from ACC to the amp, always works better.
On almost all LOC's you can get a mono signal using only one side of that channel. To get the full range (L and R ) of that channel you will need to hook the other side of the converter to the other speaker in the door.
As for it not turning on, I am assuming this is a voltage detection system. The one side might not allow enough current for the amp to sense anything, thus requiring both inputs.
I would suggest running a wire from ACC to the amp, always works better.
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Note: your LOC/PAC is converting "High Level" input (speaker frequiences) and converting it to "Low Level" output ~2-4 volts for the preamp rca jacks.
Which IDK why you need this, your amp mentioned above already has "high level" inputs. I would use those and trash the LOC.
Which IDK why you need this, your amp mentioned above already has "high level" inputs. I would use those and trash the LOC.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
yea thanks for the help, like I said Ive never used one of these, and I think the amp said it needed to see maybe 6v before it turned on, but im just using it for a sub, i have no need for the full range, like I said that is how the guy at the stereo shop told me to hook it up and I didnt know if maybe I needed both sides for full power or something, thanks
#7
Dazed and Confused
Which PAC did you buy? Before I changed my HU and still used the factory HU I installed the PAC AOEM FRD24. It was all PNP. Plug in to factory harness. Run RCA and remote trigger wire to amp and that is it. No need to use speakers for input.