Efan08

First off here is what I'm running:
Amp: JL audio JX500/1D http://www.jlaudio.com/jx500-1d-car-...plifiers-99400
Sub: JL audio 12" https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13612W...-12W0v3-4.html
Wiring kit: Pyle 4 Gauge kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've done a lot of searching on how to run the wires and where to hook the ground to and where to wire in the remote wire but I still can't figure this out.

My power wire is ran down the driver's side and through the grommet under the dash, the wire has no frays and the connections at the fuse and battery are good.

My remote wire is ran down the passenger's side and it's hooked in the #38 fuse, which is for the sub/radio. I don't have a fuse tap for this connection because autozone or advanced auto didnt have one. The wire is just wrapped around the fuse and then shoved back into the fuse box.

Finally the ground wire is hooked to the seat bracket on the back wall. There's no paint on this bracket and I've seen pictures of other setups where they have the ground hooked here.

The only thing I can think of that could fix it is replacing the speaker wire that goes from the box to the sub because that wire is old. This setup came out of my previous car. Do you think I need a new wiring kit? Is the amp going into protect mode because it's getting old (at least 3 years old)? Is the amp getting shaken around too much because it's mounted to the top of the box right now?

Thanks for taking the time to read through all this and any help is appreciated.

Efan08

Also, this is the LOC I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've done some reading on some audio forums and it could be that I have the amp directly mounted to the box. I may need to mount it somewhere else to reduce the effects from vibrations and the flexing from the enclosure.

I'm planning on building a box this weekend that will fit under the seats so I wont have to use the box that I had in my car. It's currently just sitting where the stock sub is with the seat folded up.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the speaker wire to your sub and see if it goes into protect mode. I would move the amp off the top of the box also. How is the air circulation around the amp? Is it getting to hot?

Efan08

I did this on my lunch break but for some reason when my amp shuts down like this it doesn't start back up for about 12+ hours. It looks like it would get plenty of airflow. When it was in my car it was attached to the back of the back seat in the trunk and never had any problems.

When I re-mount the amp I am going to put it behind the back seat and put some rubber washers between it and the surface to help with some vibrations.

Efan08

Ok, so when I turned on my truck this morning. I have the speaker wire running to my sub disconnected. The amp turned on in protect mode and then shut off 5 seconds later. Normally when it turns on it will play for about 5 minutes and then go into protect mode.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

I would swap out the amp.

bryan_c

Eliminate all possibilities 1 at a time. Try speaker wire 1st, then trace power & ground for shorts (possible exposed wiring from bad insulation). Slowly work your way into replacing 1:1 the entire amp. it sucks but it is a process

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Only way to do it.

LASTWRIGHTS

get a Multi meter
1.check for 12-14 volts on the power
2.check the ground wire make sure it reads 00.00
3.check for 12v on the remote wire terminal
4. Disconnect the sub box and switch the meter to ohms and test the sub box making sure it reads 2ohms or above.(if it reads less pull the sub out and check the wiring.
5. Switch the meter to AC and check to see it the speaker wire outputs are working on the amp(voltage should flex up and down)

If you check all the above and still going into protect, replace the amp.

Efan08

Ok so i took the truck to an audio shop to see if they could help me out. They took the amp out and tested it. The amp is still good so that's a plus. He checked the voltage on the power while he was at it. The voltage would drop after the key was turned on.

I think I have it working how it's supposed to now. I ended up putting in a fuse tap instead of wrapping the remote wire around the fuse. I sanded down my ground point even more. And finally I connected my LOC to the rear speaker instead of the factory sub wires. I think if it ends up messing up again I'm going to try a different LOC