Amp install questions
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Amp install questions
Just got an Boston Acoustics GTA-602 w/ a Subwoofer Level Remote Control and had a few questions.
1) How bad is to run the power wire and RCA input together? Read alot of threads saying don't do it.
2) Grounding-Some guys say run a ground back to the battery, others say to the chassis is fine.
3) My HU has a 1 sub out but my amp has left/right RCAs input. Does that matter? Cant I just run a single RCA into either the Left or Right. I don't think it will but I figured I'd ask folks that know more than me about stereos. The amp will be bridged for the sub.
4) Plan on mounting it behind the back seat. What should the x-over, gain, HP/LP and q-tune be set to before replacing the back seat? The remote is for the gain-correct?
5) Remote mounting- I planned on mounting it in the center console but interested on other locations.
The amp is powering an MTX Thunderform 12. Its no high end competion set up. RMS rating on the Amp is 200 and the sub is 225. Just looking to improve the sound. Already scored an install kit w/8 AWG so everything is here ready to install.
Thanks for your input.
1) How bad is to run the power wire and RCA input together? Read alot of threads saying don't do it.
2) Grounding-Some guys say run a ground back to the battery, others say to the chassis is fine.
3) My HU has a 1 sub out but my amp has left/right RCAs input. Does that matter? Cant I just run a single RCA into either the Left or Right. I don't think it will but I figured I'd ask folks that know more than me about stereos. The amp will be bridged for the sub.
4) Plan on mounting it behind the back seat. What should the x-over, gain, HP/LP and q-tune be set to before replacing the back seat? The remote is for the gain-correct?
5) Remote mounting- I planned on mounting it in the center console but interested on other locations.
The amp is powering an MTX Thunderform 12. Its no high end competion set up. RMS rating on the Amp is 200 and the sub is 225. Just looking to improve the sound. Already scored an install kit w/8 AWG so everything is here ready to install.
Thanks for your input.
#2
1) Run the RCA cable down the opposite side. Really not much more work.
2) I've got mine grounded to the rear seat bolt but am running it to the battery tomorrow.
3) Get a RCA Y splitter plug the single into the HU and run cable back to amp.
4) Not sure
5) Wherever is more conveinant for you.
8 awg is ok but I've always used 4 awg on my system. With the 12 sub and amp you have it will be a lot better sound for sure. It's going to pound for you no doubt.
2) I've got mine grounded to the rear seat bolt but am running it to the battery tomorrow.
3) Get a RCA Y splitter plug the single into the HU and run cable back to amp.
4) Not sure
5) Wherever is more conveinant for you.
8 awg is ok but I've always used 4 awg on my system. With the 12 sub and amp you have it will be a lot better sound for sure. It's going to pound for you no doubt.
The following users liked this post:
Merty (10-20-2012)
The following users liked this post:
Merty (10-21-2012)
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was thinking about the HU sub out(1 RCA) and the amp 2 RCA inputs(L&R). Since the amp will be bridged does the Sub out need to be split into a left and right. -Just wondering.
Thanks Spooled, I probably will run them down each side of the truck since it really isnt that much work like JP3 said. Unless I change my mind or run into trouble on mounting location. Seems pretty easy to run the power down the pass. side
45 degree angle-Sounds very specific. Whats the story behind that?
Thanks Spooled, I probably will run them down each side of the truck since it really isnt that much work like JP3 said. Unless I change my mind or run into trouble on mounting location. Seems pretty easy to run the power down the pass. side
45 degree angle-Sounds very specific. Whats the story behind that?
Last edited by Merty; 10-21-2012 at 04:39 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Just a rule of thumb, it's 90* degrees technically but you can get away with 45- the last thing you want is alternator whine or unwanted audio noise from your power wire. Sounds like your system will be intense.
#9
Senior Member
Imo there is no benefit to running a ground wire all the way back to the battery. A proper chassis ground is just as good. In fact most installers I have talked to recomend no more than a 3ft ground cable. There is a reason most amp kits come with 2.5 - 3ft of ground cable.
There is no excuse for running power next to signal wires, stop being lazy and do it right. Its really not that hard, just an extra 20-30 min of work max. It will take you much more time to fix it if you end up having noise issues.
There is no excuse for running power next to signal wires, stop being lazy and do it right. Its really not that hard, just an extra 20-30 min of work max. It will take you much more time to fix it if you end up having noise issues.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Dark- Thanks for your input on the grounding. I guess you missed my post stating I would be running my wires down each side of the truck like JP3 suggested. Spooled does have an interesting point about it being ok just for a base amp but nothing else.
Last edited by Merty; 10-24-2012 at 04:51 PM.