F150-Boy

I need some help. I don't understand all this audio frequency watt and ohm business. I don't know what amp to get. I have dual 2ohm vioce coills so I want a 2ohm amp, I have heard that I don't want to go over the rms on these speakers because they sound good as they are. I was originally going to go with a ZX1000 Kicker which is 1000watt @ 2 ohm. I was told that would be a bad idea so i want to stick with the RMS.

What i need is you all to help me with some links to a 2omh stable mono amp Class D. Preferably kicker ,JL ,Fosgate.. Thin to go in the under back of seat compartment.

I am putting in 2 10" subs in my 01 F150 supercrew. It has the bench/ bucket. The box is a seemless 2 sub cutout rhino sprayed(Like a shell coating) box.

F150-Boy

http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...cm_keycode=66#

wde3477

RMS (root-mean-square) is just a fancy math term (along with a fancy corresponding calculation) for 'average'. Used a lot in power calculations of noisy or erratic signals.

Several theories on how to size amps as compared to speakers. Matching RMS numbers is one train of thought. The main goal is to listen carefully for distortion and to operate just below that area. Power outputs increase dramatically when amps are operated into distortion - without a corresponding increase in sound level. The speaker is only rated for a given RMS so it doesn't really matter if the amp output capability is equal to or greater than that - the speaker will only handle just so much power before it fails.

A larger amp gives more headroom for instantaneous peaks such as thumps and cymbal crashes at the risk of toasting the speaker sooner if caution isn't used. A smaller amp generally means you won't get full output sound power capabilities, but have a little more flexibility on catching distortion levels before destroying the speaker. Again, if it sounds bad - as in distorted, not as in taste in music - turn down the volume.

Just about all mobile amplifiers that I've seen recently are 2-ohm compatible - so they're not a hard find. Maximum power transfer occurs when the amp output impedence matches the speaker input impedence. You need to be careful when hooking the speakers up so that you don't inadvertently parallel the loads, ending up with a 1-ohm impedence as it appears to the amp.

It sounds like dimensions may be your limiting factor - suggest to check out online catalogs such as Crutchfield to check dimensional specs of the various amps offered.

F150-Boy

Could you shoot me a couple amp names/models that would suit what I need.

toyz51

jl audio 500/1v2 is the best amp for around $500 or you can go with the a1400 if you want to spend a little bit less.

F150-Boy

Kicker KX600 600watt RMS 1 channel @ 2ohm stable Class D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI

Turd Ferguson

I myself am a fan of MMATS amps for subs. I've run JL, Kenwood, Alpine, Audiobahn, and nothing runs cooler and hits harder. I wouldn't suggest them for mids or highs, but for subs they're superb. I run a 1300DHC (1300 RMS, stable down to 1/3 Ohm, yes, 1/3), you can pick one up used for about 500 bucks.

F150-Boy

No that is the amp i went with. I wanted to keep them at 2 ohms and i was gonna push them at 1000watts there 1200 peak. I talked some guys in the local audio install shops and they said to keep them at the rms for the setup i had. They said the speakers really sound good and there was no need to go that high. This is for a supercrew application the box for under the back seat. The box is front=7 3/4,back=5 1/4,length=4 foot unported. The 5 9/16 mounting space for the sub just barely clears. I had the box carved a little to clear the magnet for a depth of 5 3/4.