Aftermarket Amp hookup
09-06-2012, 07:51 PM
#1
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Aftermarket Amp hookup
Hello! Long time lurker, first time poster!
Here's a little about the vehicle:
2008 F-150 Subercab FX4
5.4 FFV
Audiophile system (6 disc/mp3/factory sub)
So, the dilemma... My factory sub has recently started to fade out- HARD. So I've gone the route of aftermarket replacement. My pick is 2 JL audio 10" w1's, in a q-logic box specifically for the rear seat. The amp is a Rockford fosgate R500-1D. I used the factory subwoofer plug to splice into for my Line Output Converter. Had everything run, ready to go, and the amp won't turn on. Bought a multimeter, and tested the stock remote wire and got between 5.5 and 6.5 volts.
Couple of questions from this scenario- any help is appreciated!
1. How much voltage does my amp require to turn on?
2. If I need 12v or so, does the remote wire actually put out 12v behind the head unit as opposed to the 5.5-6.5 under the rear seat?
3. Can I use the sub speaker wires from the factory amp plug with my LOC or would it be required to tap into the speaker wires behind the head unit?
4. Are there any harness plug/adapters I can use to simplify this?
Obviously I'm new to car wiring. I have a decent traps of the basics though I suppose. Car toys/best buy are my only local installers, but they either want more for installation than I paid for my components, or I (with my little knowledge) know more than they do- that last one scares me.
This is on my phone right now, but I can attatch the factory amp plug schematic when I'm home from work if that helps.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, again, any help is appreciated!
Here's a little about the vehicle:
2008 F-150 Subercab FX4
5.4 FFV
Audiophile system (6 disc/mp3/factory sub)
So, the dilemma... My factory sub has recently started to fade out- HARD. So I've gone the route of aftermarket replacement. My pick is 2 JL audio 10" w1's, in a q-logic box specifically for the rear seat. The amp is a Rockford fosgate R500-1D. I used the factory subwoofer plug to splice into for my Line Output Converter. Had everything run, ready to go, and the amp won't turn on. Bought a multimeter, and tested the stock remote wire and got between 5.5 and 6.5 volts.
Couple of questions from this scenario- any help is appreciated!
1. How much voltage does my amp require to turn on?
2. If I need 12v or so, does the remote wire actually put out 12v behind the head unit as opposed to the 5.5-6.5 under the rear seat?
3. Can I use the sub speaker wires from the factory amp plug with my LOC or would it be required to tap into the speaker wires behind the head unit?
4. Are there any harness plug/adapters I can use to simplify this?
Obviously I'm new to car wiring. I have a decent traps of the basics though I suppose. Car toys/best buy are my only local installers, but they either want more for installation than I paid for my components, or I (with my little knowledge) know more than they do- that last one scares me.
This is on my phone right now, but I can attatch the factory amp plug schematic when I'm home from work if that helps.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, again, any help is appreciated!
09-07-2012, 10:36 AM
#2
Hello! Long time lurker, first time poster!
Here's a little about the vehicle:
2008 F-150 Subercab FX4
5.4 FFV
Audiophile system (6 disc/mp3/factory sub)
So, the dilemma... My factory sub has recently started to fade out- HARD. So I've gone the route of aftermarket replacement. My pick is 2 JL audio 10" w1's, in a q-logic box specifically for the rear seat. The amp is a Rockford fosgate R500-1D. I used the factory subwoofer plug to splice into for my Line Output Converter. Had everything run, ready to go, and the amp won't turn on. Bought a multimeter, and tested the stock remote wire and got between 5.5 and 6.5 volts.
Couple of questions from this scenario- any help is appreciated!
1. How much voltage does my amp require to turn on?
2. If I need 12v or so, does the remote wire actually put out 12v behind the head unit as opposed to the 5.5-6.5 under the rear seat?
3. Can I use the sub speaker wires from the factory amp plug with my LOC or would it be required to tap into the speaker wires behind the head unit?
4. Are there any harness plug/adapters I can use to simplify this?
Obviously I'm new to car wiring. I have a decent traps of the basics though I suppose. Car toys/best buy are my only local installers, but they either want more for installation than I paid for my components, or I (with my little knowledge) know more than they do- that last one scares me.
This is on my phone right now, but I can attatch the factory amp plug schematic when I'm home from work if that helps.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, again, any help is appreciated!
Here's a little about the vehicle:
2008 F-150 Subercab FX4
5.4 FFV
Audiophile system (6 disc/mp3/factory sub)
So, the dilemma... My factory sub has recently started to fade out- HARD. So I've gone the route of aftermarket replacement. My pick is 2 JL audio 10" w1's, in a q-logic box specifically for the rear seat. The amp is a Rockford fosgate R500-1D. I used the factory subwoofer plug to splice into for my Line Output Converter. Had everything run, ready to go, and the amp won't turn on. Bought a multimeter, and tested the stock remote wire and got between 5.5 and 6.5 volts.
Couple of questions from this scenario- any help is appreciated!
1. How much voltage does my amp require to turn on?
2. If I need 12v or so, does the remote wire actually put out 12v behind the head unit as opposed to the 5.5-6.5 under the rear seat?
3. Can I use the sub speaker wires from the factory amp plug with my LOC or would it be required to tap into the speaker wires behind the head unit?
4. Are there any harness plug/adapters I can use to simplify this?
Obviously I'm new to car wiring. I have a decent traps of the basics though I suppose. Car toys/best buy are my only local installers, but they either want more for installation than I paid for my components, or I (with my little knowledge) know more than they do- that last one scares me.
This is on my phone right now, but I can attatch the factory amp plug schematic when I'm home from work if that helps.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, again, any help is appreciated!
09-07-2012, 12:48 PM
#3
Senior Member
FYI the factory sub output from the HU to the box/amp is a low/RCA level signal already, no LOC needed, just splice on an RCA end.
You'll probably need 12v to turn the amp on. Use the factory turn on to switch a standard bosch relay so you can use the signal.
You'll probably need 12v to turn the amp on. Use the factory turn on to switch a standard bosch relay so you can use the signal.
