Advice - '12 Scab how to add an amp without cutting anything?
#1
Advice - '12 Scab how to add an amp without cutting anything?
So I feel like a real knucklehead in that I've searched like crazy but can't find a clear answer so i hope you all can help.
I have a '12 FX4 Scab that I would like to add an amp to. I think there are some factory wire converters that allow an amp to plug into but I could be wrong.
Without splicing anything etc. are there any options for adding an amp to the truck?
I've got Polk speakers ready to go but think based on what I've read that the HU will not power them well.
As a side note, anyone know how to remove the "A" pillars?
Thanks much in advance.
Matt
I have a '12 FX4 Scab that I would like to add an amp to. I think there are some factory wire converters that allow an amp to plug into but I could be wrong.
Without splicing anything etc. are there any options for adding an amp to the truck?
I've got Polk speakers ready to go but think based on what I've read that the HU will not power them well.
As a side note, anyone know how to remove the "A" pillars?
Thanks much in advance.
Matt
#3
Dazed and Confused
Get the PAC AOEM-FRD24 for input to the sub. PNP install, no splicing takes about 30 minutes to install. I am powering Polks (MM6501 front, db571 rear) from the factory HU and it sounds great to me. Plenty of volume for my ears.
#7
Senior Member
As previously mentioned the PAC FRD24 will take care of this but it sounds like you want to power doors as well.
You have some options:
1. Use PAC FRD24 & run new wire from amp to doors.
2. Use PAC & run new wire from amp back to the HU and then splice into the speaker side PAC connector and use factory speaker wires/connector.
3. Use Metra harness and LOCs or processor (I think its the BT-5520). Search this forum or F150 online forums. Lots of posts on the metra install.
4. Use LOCs behind HU and splice into factory harness (keeping basic converters close to source is best for signal quality).
I started with #2 and found way to much channel bleed over with the gains turned up (bad PAC??) got pissed and ended up ditching the PAC. I ended up doing #4 and sourced the converters at a local shop largely due to my impatience, having the truck torn apart and not wanting to wait or go through the reinstall/teardown again.
Had I given it more forethought and knowing that I would eventually not use factory speaker wires and be adding a digital processor I would have done #3 from the get go - spliced into the Metra and mounted the proc with the amps on the back wall and run door wire from there. It all depends on where you are taking your install.
Not sure why your pulling a-pillars unless adding tweets - havent done this so cant advise. I installed components up front with tweets as high up as possible in door panel next to the window vent. Easy install and sounds great! There is plenty of room behind door panel for crossovers. Add disconnects for easy panel removal.
Good luck!
You have some options:
1. Use PAC FRD24 & run new wire from amp to doors.
2. Use PAC & run new wire from amp back to the HU and then splice into the speaker side PAC connector and use factory speaker wires/connector.
3. Use Metra harness and LOCs or processor (I think its the BT-5520). Search this forum or F150 online forums. Lots of posts on the metra install.
4. Use LOCs behind HU and splice into factory harness (keeping basic converters close to source is best for signal quality).
I started with #2 and found way to much channel bleed over with the gains turned up (bad PAC??) got pissed and ended up ditching the PAC. I ended up doing #4 and sourced the converters at a local shop largely due to my impatience, having the truck torn apart and not wanting to wait or go through the reinstall/teardown again.
Had I given it more forethought and knowing that I would eventually not use factory speaker wires and be adding a digital processor I would have done #3 from the get go - spliced into the Metra and mounted the proc with the amps on the back wall and run door wire from there. It all depends on where you are taking your install.
Not sure why your pulling a-pillars unless adding tweets - havent done this so cant advise. I installed components up front with tweets as high up as possible in door panel next to the window vent. Easy install and sounds great! There is plenty of room behind door panel for crossovers. Add disconnects for easy panel removal.
Good luck!
Last edited by JoeBoost; 01-18-2012 at 02:55 PM.
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#8
Not sure why your pulling a-pillars unless adding tweets - havent done this so cant advise.
Thanks for your suggestions. One question: what are LOCs?
Thank you,
Matt
#9
Dazed and Confused
LOC = Line Out Convertor. Takes the line out (usually speaker output wires) and converts to RCA connectors or something else. Basically what the PAC unit is. Some LOC you can tweak the sound and settings.
Last edited by Tallyman89; 01-18-2012 at 07:24 PM.