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Old 01-11-2014, 11:04 PM   #11
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Alright so here's what I've got put together. Only question is which PAC I need to buy?

I'm going to use the AA amps.

200.2 to the JBl P660c's. 200x2 @ 2 Ohms stereo. Read how they handle the power really well and like that they handle lower frequencies more than others I read about.

400.2 will get bridged 400x1 @ 4 Ohms to the Sundown SD-2 10D2.

The AA's have a crossover built into them but it's separate from the amp. So if I'm correct based off reading the manual again I send 1 set of preamp from the PAC back to the crossover input of one of the AA's.(not sure if it matters which one). Set the crossover freq about 75 Hz. High output (75+) of the crossover signals get sent to the input of the high amp via RCA. Low output (75-)of that amp goes to the input of the sub amp. So for instance in my design the main preamp goes in the 400.2. Low out goes right back into the input and the high out runs to the 200.2.

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Old 01-11-2014, 11:26 PM   #12
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Keep in mind that you will need to make adapters for the JBLs since stock is 5x7, no big deal. Unless you have a 2013 with the 4.2 inch screen in the dash, this is the PAC adapter you need. you can shop around a little and pick one up for 35 or 40 bucks.
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
If you arent going to run rear speakers, I would use the front RCA output on the PAC for your front speakers and the rear outputs for your sub amp. That way you can fade the radio to the front to lower the level of the sub if you need to
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:49 AM   #13
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I'd have started a new thread but this seems relevant.

I was originally thinking about getting some coaxial speakers for my rear doors and components in the front, but now I've been reading more and more about forgetting the rear speakers altogether and spending my money on the front components. I'm nervous to do this because I've never heard a system set up like this and I feel like I'd be missing something.

Is it really much better? Would it still be loud enough if I wanted to crank it?

I still haven't purchased my speakers but my amp's RMS specs are:
4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 160 watts x 2 chan.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:05 AM   #14
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[MENTION=169773]KTENNIES[/MENTION] Think of it this way. When you go to a concert do you sit with your back to the stage? If not, why would you want music coming from behind you. My last truck was a dodge megacab and I never ran rear speakers. Just a single pair of components in the front and a sub and it got plenty loud. Never even considered putting speakers in the rear.with that amp I would buy the JBL p660c 2ohm components and run them on 2 channels of the amp. 80w should be plenty although they can take more

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Old 01-16-2014, 01:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by king nothing View Post
@KTENNIES Think of it this way. When you go to a concert do you sit with your back to the stage? If not, why would you want music coming from behind you. My last truck was a dodge megacab and I never ran rear speakers. Just a single pair of components in the front and a sub and it got plenty loud. Never even considered putting speakers in the rear.with that amp I would buy the JBL p660c 2ohm components and run them on 2 channels of the amp. 80w should be plenty although they can take more
I am going to do it.

Now with the components, I would like the woofers in the front door as usual, but should we be installing the tweeters there as well (factory door location) or would it sound better to have them in the sail panels or a pillars? Personal preference?

If you were me, what would you run on my other two amp channels if anything? Extra tweeters? Midbass in kick panels? Something else? Nothing needed? You might remember from another thread that I have a separate amp for bass already.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:45 AM   #16
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I prefer my tweeters up high. I had the tweeters in the sail panels in my dodge, and I'd love to do that again but I'm not cutting holes in this truck. Pretty much 3 options with the extra amp channels. Don't use them, bridge them and get a 4 ohm component set, or get a bi-ampable component set where the tweeter and mid use different channels
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