extremez

Any one have their truck setup like this? 2 fronts and a sub?

I'm thinking of a little setup for my SCAB and I already have an Alpine MRV-F307 4 channel from a previous system from a long time ago when I was into car audio.

I'm not into the scene anymore but would like an upgrade to the stock setup while keeping Sync.

Specs are:

12V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 30W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 40W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................. 80W, 0.3% THD

14.4V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 50W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 60W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms ................................ 120W, 0.3% THD

Peak 14.4V
Per channel into 4 ohms .............................................. 90W
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................................. 240W

Haven't picked my front speakers but was thinking of a shallow mount 8 or 10 under the rear seat.

If this doesn't seem decent then I'll probably shoot for something like the Power Acoustik GT5-2500 5 channel.

thoughts?

king nothing

I never run rear speakers in any of my systems. My ram megacab was a 3 channel setup. That amp is a little weak to run a sub. there are several big 4 channels (MBQuart, Hifonics, and PPI come to mind) on the market for around $150 that put out 100-125 on the front channels and 4-500 bridged for as sub. Id stay away from that Power Akoustik junk

Milton6001

I have not done it in a truck but I have my Marauder set up that way. It has 6.5 Polk MM fronts and a Bazooka 10" sub in the trunk. I am running it with a 4 channel amp with 2 of the channels bridged for the sub. I do not remember the exact power spec, but it was around 75-100W RMS X 4 or 75-100W X 2 and 250ish bridged. It is incredible. Do it.

extremez

I also have from way back in the day 2 other amps. I wasn't even sure if they should get thrown into this.

They are:
Audio Art 200.2x and an Audio Art 400.2x

I have long since lost the spec sheets on them but decided to google them and was lucky enough to find them.





Use the 200.2 to drive a set of http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPR-50C.html and the 400.2 to drive a sealed sub. Leaning towards a sealed sub because most of the music I listen to doesn't need the boom. Just not sure which one will work for me.

king nothing

That sounds like a good plan if those old audio arts are working. I like the jbl p660c components in that price range. As far as subs, where are you putting it and what box are you going to use? Sealed is good. Let me know a little more about what your looking for and I can help pick a sub

extremez

Those JBL's have some great reviews from many sites I've looked at today. Only thing is they're 2 ohm and I'm not sure how the AA amps will handle a 2 ohm load plus it's twice the power rating of the speakers. Assuming the RMS ratings for the AA are 100x2 @ 4 ohms. I could look for some contact info for AA but I don't believe anything will come of it. What company produced the AA amps anyways?

These JBL's are getting good reviews all around also.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BL-MS-62C.html although they don't go quite as low as the p660c.

As for the sub. It would have to handle the +/-400 RMS load. Would be looking to mount under the rear seats of my 13 SCAB. I have 2 12" Alpine type R's but they wouldn't fit without lifting the seat plus they're 4ohm DVC. Then I also have some old Kicker 12" free-air's I used in my 84 Camaro <--- don't laugh I'm that old.

king nothing

nvm

king nothing

Its too bad you cant fit those type-r those are pretty nice subs. You cant use the kicker freeairs. its not possible to do freeair in a truck. Dont feel too old. I rocked an 86 mustang, a 79 bronco, and a 76 GMC pickup when I was younger

If the audio arts are bridgeable to 4 ohm then they are stable at 2 ohm stereo. Unfortunately, those are so old you probably have all the info you will ever find on them. The JBL MS series components are a little "tamer" than the power series. Im told they sound a little cleaner but wont "boogie" like the powers. You can throw more power at the p660s check out the review
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-comp-set.html
Im not sure what will fit under the seat of a Scab as I have an Screw
Heres a prefab ported box for a 10.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Labyrinth-Single-10-Subwoofer-Box-Fits-Ford-03-Current-F150-Super-Cab-/360686330453?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item53fa94a255And heres a sealed box. Its a little big for the sub I recommended but you can always make it smaller with a block of wood glued/screwed on the inside of the box to take up volume
http://www.supercrewsound.com/09F150ECUTSsingle.html
Throw one of these in there with that audioart 400 and it will rock out
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SD-2-10D2-SUNDOWN-AUDIO-SLIM-MOUNT-10-DUAL-2-OHM-SUBWOOFER-SHALLOW-SERIES-SUB-/130616605417?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item1e695b3ae9&vxp=mtr

extremez

Nice thanks. I'll check them out. Sent a PM before I saw your 1st reply. Audio Arts are in my basement and could use a little TLC. They've been stuck out in some harsh weather in a garage for too many years while I decided to garage sale them or not.

The freeairs I figured were garbage. They sat in the back deck of my POS camaro. I kinda regret getting rid of a couple Kicker Comp 8's I had that sold last year.

king nothing

The freeairs arent really garbage. If they are in good shape you might could get a couple bucks for them (same with the audio art amps, There is a pretty good market for old school gear). They just wont work in a truck. The premise behind "freeair" subs was that they used the trunk of your car as their "box". They were made for very large boxes. I could make you a nice list of audio gear that I regret selling/trading. It would start and end with a bunch of late 90s/early 2000s MTX thunder and blue thunder amps, a couple of Memphis Belle amps, some nice JBL 8s that I had 4 of but sold 2, A harrison labs SEMOD equalizer/crossover. I really recommend that sundown SD-2 10 though over any of the shallow subs on the market. The shallows are a pretty poor compromise except the JL 13tw5 and the stereointegrity BM mk4, both of which will run you over 300 bucks each