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3 channel system

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Old 01-04-2014, 04:18 PM   #1
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Default 3 channel system

Any one have their truck setup like this? 2 fronts and a sub?

I'm thinking of a little setup for my SCAB and I already have an Alpine MRV-F307 4 channel from a previous system from a long time ago when I was into car audio.

I'm not into the scene anymore but would like an upgrade to the stock setup while keeping Sync.

Specs are:

12V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 30W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 40W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................. 80W, 0.3% THD

14.4V RMS
Per channel into 4 ohms ........................... 50W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms ............................ 60W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms ................................ 120W, 0.3% THD

Peak 14.4V
Per channel into 4 ohms .............................................. 90W
Bridged into 4 ohms .................................................. 240W

Haven't picked my front speakers but was thinking of a shallow mount 8 or 10 under the rear seat.

If this doesn't seem decent then I'll probably shoot for something like the Power Acoustik GT5-2500 5 channel.

thoughts?
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:39 PM   #2
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I never run rear speakers in any of my systems. My ram megacab was a 3 channel setup. That amp is a little weak to run a sub. there are several big 4 channels (MBQuart, Hifonics, and PPI come to mind) on the market for around $150 that put out 100-125 on the front channels and 4-500 bridged for as sub. Id stay away from that Power Akoustik junk

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Old 01-04-2014, 07:49 PM   #3
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I have not done it in a truck but I have my Marauder set up that way. It has 6.5 Polk MM fronts and a Bazooka 10" sub in the trunk. I am running it with a 4 channel amp with 2 of the channels bridged for the sub. I do not remember the exact power spec, but it was around 75-100W RMS X 4 or 75-100W X 2 and 250ish bridged. It is incredible. Do it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:50 PM   #4
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I also have from way back in the day 2 other amps. I wasn't even sure if they should get thrown into this.

They are:
Audio Art 200.2x and an Audio Art 400.2x

I have long since lost the spec sheets on them but decided to google them and was lucky enough to find them.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Use the 200.2 to drive a set of http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPR-50C.html and the 400.2 to drive a sealed sub. Leaning towards a sealed sub because most of the music I listen to doesn't need the boom. Just not sure which one will work for me.

Last edited by extremez; 01-08-2014 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:48 PM   #5
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That sounds like a good plan if those old audio arts are working. I like the jbl p660c components in that price range. As far as subs, where are you putting it and what box are you going to use? Sealed is good. Let me know a little more about what your looking for and I can help pick a sub
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:05 PM   #6
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Those JBL's have some great reviews from many sites I've looked at today. Only thing is they're 2 ohm and I'm not sure how the AA amps will handle a 2 ohm load plus it's twice the power rating of the speakers. Assuming the RMS ratings for the AA are 100x2 @ 4 ohms. I could look for some contact info for AA but I don't believe anything will come of it. What company produced the AA amps anyways?

These JBL's are getting good reviews all around also.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BL-MS-62C.html although they don't go quite as low as the p660c.

As for the sub. It would have to handle the +/-400 RMS load. Would be looking to mount under the rear seats of my 13 SCAB. I have 2 12" Alpine type R's but they wouldn't fit without lifting the seat plus they're 4ohm DVC. Then I also have some old Kicker 12" free-air's I used in my 84 Camaro <--- don't laugh I'm that old.

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Old 01-08-2014, 10:10 PM   #7
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nvm

Last edited by king nothing; 01-08-2014 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extremez View Post
I have 2 12" Alpine type R's but they wouldn't fit without lifting the seat plus they're 4ohm DVC. Then I also have some old Kicker 12" free-air's I used in my 84 Camaro <--- don't laugh I'm that old.
Its too bad you cant fit those type-r those are pretty nice subs. You cant use the kicker freeairs. its not possible to do freeair in a truck. Dont feel too old. I rocked an 86 mustang, a 79 bronco, and a 76 GMC pickup when I was younger

If the audio arts are bridgeable to 4 ohm then they are stable at 2 ohm stereo. Unfortunately, those are so old you probably have all the info you will ever find on them. The JBL MS series components are a little "tamer" than the power series. Im told they sound a little cleaner but wont "boogie" like the powers. You can throw more power at the p660s check out the review
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-comp-set.html
Im not sure what will fit under the seat of a Scab as I have an Screw
Heres a prefab ported box for a 10.
And heres a sealed box. Its a little big for the sub I recommended but you can always make it smaller with a block of wood glued/screwed on the inside of the box to take up volume
http://www.supercrewsound.com/09F150ECUTSsingle.html
Throw one of these in there with that audioart 400 and it will rock out
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:35 PM   #9
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Nice thanks. I'll check them out. Sent a PM before I saw your 1st reply. Audio Arts are in my basement and could use a little TLC. They've been stuck out in some harsh weather in a garage for too many years while I decided to garage sale them or not.

The freeairs I figured were garbage. They sat in the back deck of my POS camaro. I kinda regret getting rid of a couple Kicker Comp 8's I had that sold last year.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:28 PM   #10
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The freeairs arent really garbage. If they are in good shape you might could get a couple bucks for them (same with the audio art amps, There is a pretty good market for old school gear). They just wont work in a truck. The premise behind "freeair" subs was that they used the trunk of your car as their "box". They were made for very large boxes. I could make you a nice list of audio gear that I regret selling/trading. It would start and end with a bunch of late 90s/early 2000s MTX thunder and blue thunder amps, a couple of Memphis Belle amps, some nice JBL 8s that I had 4 of but sold 2, A harrison labs SEMOD equalizer/crossover. I really recommend that sundown SD-2 10 though over any of the shallow subs on the market. The shallows are a pretty poor compromise except the JL 13tw5 and the stereointegrity BM mk4, both of which will run you over 300 bucks each
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:04 PM   #11
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Alright so here's what I've got put together. Only question is which PAC I need to buy?

I'm going to use the AA amps.

200.2 to the JBl P660c's. 200x2 @ 2 Ohms stereo. Read how they handle the power really well and like that they handle lower frequencies more than others I read about.

400.2 will get bridged 400x1 @ 4 Ohms to the Sundown SD-2 10D2.

The AA's have a crossover built into them but it's separate from the amp. So if I'm correct based off reading the manual again I send 1 set of preamp from the PAC back to the crossover input of one of the AA's.(not sure if it matters which one). Set the crossover freq about 75 Hz. High output (75+) of the crossover signals get sent to the input of the high amp via RCA. Low output (75-)of that amp goes to the input of the sub amp. So for instance in my design the main preamp goes in the 400.2. Low out goes right back into the input and the high out runs to the 200.2.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:26 PM   #12
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Keep in mind that you will need to make adapters for the JBLs since stock is 5x7, no big deal. Unless you have a 2013 with the 4.2 inch screen in the dash, this is the PAC adapter you need. you can shop around a little and pick one up for 35 or 40 bucks.
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
If you arent going to run rear speakers, I would use the front RCA output on the PAC for your front speakers and the rear outputs for your sub amp. That way you can fade the radio to the front to lower the level of the sub if you need to
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:49 AM   #13
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I'd have started a new thread but this seems relevant.

I was originally thinking about getting some coaxial speakers for my rear doors and components in the front, but now I've been reading more and more about forgetting the rear speakers altogether and spending my money on the front components. I'm nervous to do this because I've never heard a system set up like this and I feel like I'd be missing something.

Is it really much better? Would it still be loud enough if I wanted to crank it?

I still haven't purchased my speakers but my amp's RMS specs are:
4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 160 watts x 2 chan.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:05 AM   #14
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@KTENNIES Think of it this way. When you go to a concert do you sit with your back to the stage? If not, why would you want music coming from behind you. My last truck was a dodge megacab and I never ran rear speakers. Just a single pair of components in the front and a sub and it got plenty loud. Never even considered putting speakers in the rear.with that amp I would buy the JBL p660c 2ohm components and run them on 2 channels of the amp. 80w should be plenty although they can take more

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Old 01-16-2014, 01:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by king nothing View Post
@KTENNIES Think of it this way. When you go to a concert do you sit with your back to the stage? If not, why would you want music coming from behind you. My last truck was a dodge megacab and I never ran rear speakers. Just a single pair of components in the front and a sub and it got plenty loud. Never even considered putting speakers in the rear.with that amp I would buy the JBL p660c 2ohm components and run them on 2 channels of the amp. 80w should be plenty although they can take more
I am going to do it.

Now with the components, I would like the woofers in the front door as usual, but should we be installing the tweeters there as well (factory door location) or would it sound better to have them in the sail panels or a pillars? Personal preference?

If you were me, what would you run on my other two amp channels if anything? Extra tweeters? Midbass in kick panels? Something else? Nothing needed? You might remember from another thread that I have a separate amp for bass already.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:45 AM   #16
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I prefer my tweeters up high. I had the tweeters in the sail panels in my dodge, and I'd love to do that again but I'm not cutting holes in this truck. Pretty much 3 options with the extra amp channels. Don't use them, bridge them and get a 4 ohm component set, or get a bi-ampable component set where the tweeter and mid use different channels
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:45 AM
 
 
 
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