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2016 F150 XLT SuperCab 301A stock 4.3" HU adding 12"sub and amp

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Old 11-18-2016, 02:11 PM
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Default 2016 F150 XLT SuperCab 301A stock 4.3" HU adding 12"sub and amp

Howdy folks

I am creating my build/upgrade thread now that I’ve gotten some answers from the other guys with similar threads. I’m not an audiophile or master car audio installer. So if anyone notices something that won’t work or isn’t recommended, please let me know.

I'm planning to add a single 12" sub and amp behind the rear driver's seat. I already have an amp from a previous truck that I plan to use. But the sub and enclosure is I believe too fat to fit. So that sub will stay with my old truck and I'll get a shallower sub/box. I also have a 600W Sony Xplod amp in the closet that will go into the old truck and the Pioneer amp which is smaller in size but more Watts will be used in this truck.

Components:
Sub: Pioneer TS-SWX3002 (this looks to work well with my amp, and I think it’ll fit without much problem)
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...unt/TS-SWX3002

Amp: Pioneer GM-A5602 ( I already have this amp so I’m going to use it)
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-A5602

Wiring: 4Ga. Wiring kit (haven’t decided on a brand. If anyone has a suggestion that’s not crazy expensive, I’m open to suggestions)

My plan is to bridge the amp to power the single 12” sub. I would like to use the OEM sub wiring that I am assuming is in the door pillar? Then either get ForScan or a dealer to turn it “ON”.

As for wiring, I’m not certain, but I’d like to run the power cable down the passenger side away from the sub wiring. But it sounds like that’s a little more difficult with getting through the firewall. So I’ll try to locate the specific grommet/hole that will work best and connect the dots.

Well, that’s where I am at today. Hopefully I can get some parts together and do the work by the T’giving holiday weekend. I ordered an interior panel removal kit that should be here Monday. I may/will have some questions about the best way to access the OEM sub wiring that is rumored to be hidden by the rear door. Keep in mind this is a SuperCab (if that makes any difference idk)

Any suggestion, comments, or concerns about my components or procedure are welcomed.

Thanks to the other guys for answering some of my earlier questions. Stay tuned for “Before” Pics.
Old 11-18-2016, 02:15 PM
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So this is the space I'm working with.
The dims for the planned sub are: "Enclosure size (WxDxH): 20-1/2" x 13-7/8" x 6-3/8"'





Old 11-18-2016, 02:19 PM
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The sub I originally planned to use but I don't think will fit: according to my super-duper-scientific measuring device. It's a little over 6" deep on top and a little over 7" deep on bottom.




Old 11-18-2016, 02:42 PM
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Looking at using this wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII...b_recs_3_title

A bit less expensive than some others that I've seen. Have any of yall used this?
Old 11-18-2016, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SixShooter14
Looking at using this wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII...b_recs_3_title

A bit less expensive than some others that I've seen. Have any of yall used this?
The amp wiring kit, you linked is garbage... Its copper Coated aluminum, get pure copper...

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CK4-2-...amp+wiring+kit

Get this 4 awg, or even the 8 awg copper Kicker amp kit. Not being a Dick, just trying to help yah out!
Old 11-18-2016, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddman38
The amp wiring kit, you linked is garbage... Its copper Coated aluminum, get pure copper...

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CK4-2-...amp+wiring+kit

Get this 4 awg, or even the 8 awg copper Kicker amp kit. Not being a Dick, just trying to help yah out!
I appreciate that. That's Exactly why I posted it. I was a bit skeptical too. Thanks
Old 11-18-2016, 10:33 PM
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I'm planning to use the speaker level inputs, so I don't need RCAs, correct? Would the Kicker PK4 work?
Old 11-18-2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SixShooter14
I'm planning to use the speaker level inputs, so I don't need RCAs, correct? Would the Kicker PK4 work?
Yes, youll just skip the RCAs, and the Remote turn on wire. Youll use the + & -, from the oem sub harness for music signal, and for Remote turn on (dealer ids, or forscan to enable aux sub connector). Then run your fused power wire from batter to amp.

Then ground wire, from amp to a good ground point in rear of cab if possible. I grounded mine to a favtory ground location on rear left wall. Others have done different, this is up to you and what works best.
Old 11-19-2016, 12:38 AM
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Thank, that's what I was planning. I already have speaker wire. But I will need the power, ground, and a fuse block.

I'm going to try to use Forscan. I also plan to get the ITBC in the future so I'll need it for that also. Might as well learn how to use it now.
Old 11-20-2016, 11:06 PM
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I've got a Forscan adapter on the way as well as the panel removal tools. Haven't pulled the trigger on the sub yet. Too many things happening the last couple days. But will order this week



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