1Chad

If you wired things together similar to the diagrams in this post, then your amp and lc6i are both connected to 12v sources that are essentially always on, however they are only turned on when they sense speaker level input from the factory system. Couple of questions. Do you have always on 12v at both lc6i and amp? Are you using the GTO speaker level sensing option of the lc6i to turn it on? Does your lc6i turn on without starting the truck? If so, are you using the trigger out of that unit to input into the trigger in on the amp? If so, I would probably double check the voltage at each of those points while the truck is in the key on position to begin troubleshooting. Hope that helps.

F150N808

I did wire my system per directions on this post. I originally had my Lc6i connected to a constant 12v supply and was just using the GTO to power up but ran into the problem, so I ran a wire from fuze 23 to the input of the Lc6i, same result. I checked power going to the amp and I have power at my constant 12v input along with the signal input. approx. 9v....
whats confusing is that I do show power to the amp but no output unless the vehicle is started.
Thanks for all the help

UH60Hosier

Have you checked the remote turn on power source? Might want to check to see if the fuse you used to tap into is energized when using just the key.

F150N808

Yes Fuze 23 is energized when the key is turned on. I validated this prior to running my remote turn on wire.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Try 38 just for the hell of it

1Chad

So when the key is on, but truck is not started, do the power lights show on the lc6i and on the amp? You said you have 12v constant power to the amp, but do you also see 12v on the remote trigger into the amp when the key is on? (This would normally be coming from the trigger/remote out from the lc6i)

F150N808

1Chad you are the Man. So after trouble shooting my voltage levels at the Lc6i I discovered that my battery is not putting out enough voltage. With engine off it is only reading 12.2v (Good battery should read about 12.6). So it does turn on the Lc6i but not the AMP. once I start the truck I now have 13.9v out putting from the battery and the system powers up. I kept the meter on and shut off the truck. My AMP stays on while the voltage is drawing down and it turns off at 12.5v. The power sub, powers off at 12.3v. the battery settles at 12.2 and the Lc6i remains on. So I will invest in a yellow top and see if that is the final fix.
I am really disappointed that on a brand new truck (less than 600 miles) I have a bad battery. I'm afraid to warranty the battery and have them tell me my stereo is the cause. Thanks 1Chad for pointing me in the right direction. I really appreciate it.

coldengineer

1Chad, a question about the subwoofer

How did you secure it to the floorboard? Looks like it's just sitting there.

Do you notice any issues with the way you mounted it? Such as vibration, sound quality, etc?

Would you do anything different regarding the sub?

purplem3pursuit

All,

Just to contribute to Chad1's writeup, I decided to lay sound deadening on the front floor as well. You can see the layout in the images below as well as the connectors associated with each seat. Keep in mind, my truck has a jump seat vs. console which is shown in Chad1's write-up. The best way to run the wiring for this application is to come along the side of the jump seat and under the frame forward of the rear mounting (shown in the red box). Hope this helps someone going forward.

Billbeau

For those using the FOR-11CK adapter. Here is the pin outs for the connector going into the head unit. Color codes do not match on the adapter.