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2015 F150 XLT Screw Audio System Upgrade Log (Sync w/Nav, No Sony)

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Old 09-13-2016, 10:25 PM
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Ok BUT they are not $500.00.....anymore. When Crutchfield has them on sale, they can be bought for less....lol
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091PS16...1047185&awdv=c

Originally Posted by TexasFording
Those are entry level, and dont have much power handling. A mid level is something like the K2 Power, and the big daddy, of course, the utopia.

I'll be honest with you, and this is of course subject to personal choice. I listened to those you linked and they dont sound good. I went with JL C3s instead.

I also listened to the K2. Now those have the nice features like their weird fiber cones and neodymium magnets. Oh, the humanity once you feed those guys good 100W.
Old 09-14-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
Ok BUT they are not $500.00.....anymore. When Crutchfield has them on sale, they can be bought for less....lol
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091PS16...1047185&awdv=c
Goddamit thats a good price. Thats what I paid for JL C3s.

Goddamit now I want em... You aint being a good friend Larry!
Old 09-14-2016, 10:03 AM
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Lol, sure I am. I shop well....that's not even the best price.
Old 09-16-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Chad















I originally wanted to install this subwoofer behind the rear seat so that nothing was visible. Unfortunately, there is realistically only about 3 inches of space behind the rear seat when you fold it up. I think I could have made this sub work behind the seat if I never wanted to put the seat up and I was willing to relocate/retrofit the rear window power slider. If you want a sub behind the seat that allows full rear seat functionality, you are extremely limited to very small sub options.
Chad,

Please post a pic with the seat down over your sub! I have the exact brand Sub & Box but the 10" version. Can't decide, if I wanna install it under the rear seat, or behind it.

Last edited by Toddman38; 09-16-2016 at 04:12 PM.
Old 10-16-2016, 07:08 PM
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Default Lcq-1

Wht size power should i run for the lcq-1? Thanks anything will help
Old 10-16-2016, 07:12 PM
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Default Sweet install

Very. Nice thread
Old 10-17-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bshotti
Wht size power should i run for the lcq-1? Thanks anything will help
You can run it off the battery cable you ran for your amp
Old 12-10-2016, 10:22 AM
  #218  
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Default Thank you!

Originally Posted by 1Chad
I've been pretty happy with the DQ-61 and the location I chose to mount it. I would strongly recommend you mount it within arms length because I can't imagine trying to tune it if I had mounted it somewhere further away. You really want to be able to make adjustments up / down in each band do find the sweet spot, and it just wouldn't be feasible from any other location.
First, thank you for this awesome guide, I plan on using it as the starting point for upgrading the audio in my 2016 Lariat non-sony SCREW.

Question for you though, why does the signal processor need that **** that you installed in your dash? Pardon my ignorance, but what does that know do?
Old 12-10-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mille1j
First, thank you for this awesome guide, I plan on using it as the starting point for upgrading the audio in my 2016 Lariat non-sony SCREW.

Question for you though, why does the signal processor need that **** that you installed in your dash? Pardon my ignorance, but what does that know do?
I'm not sure I completely understand your question, but I assume are referring to the wiring harness adapter that I installed behind the radio. If so, then technically you could manually cut all of the factory wires and splice in wiring, but I think it is more work and less desirable for most. To run the DSP and an amp, you must get the speaker output signal from the radio, run that to your DSP, then connect that to the amp. After that, the output to the amp has to be fed back to the speaker wiring. So, for me, connecting everything behind the radio was the best place to do all of that. In addition, I could return it to factory state by simply removing that harness and plugging the factory wiring back into the radio. Hope that answers it.
Old 12-10-2016, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Chad
I'm not sure I completely understand your question, but I assume are referring to the wiring harness adapter that I installed behind the radio. If so, then technically you could manually cut all of the factory wires and splice in wiring, but I think it is more work and less desirable for most. To run the DSP and an amp, you must get the speaker output signal from the radio, run that to your DSP, then connect that to the amp. After that, the output to the amp has to be fed back to the speaker wiring. So, for me, connecting everything behind the radio was the best place to do all of that. In addition, I could return it to factory state by simply removing that harness and plugging the factory wiring back into the radio. Hope that answers it.
no, he means the control **** that controls the DSP, not the wire harness.


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