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I'm just swapping out all the factory speakers for better aftermarket ones. I wanted to change the location of the tweeters though, from the factory A pillar location to the plastic wedge on the inside top of the door panel. If possible, I didn't want to have to fish the tweeter wires back into the door. If there's a set of tweeter wires coming off the 6x9 door speakers that makes changing the tweeter's mount location a lot easier.
One thing, though. I had read somewhere that the factory (non-Sony) stereo is crossovered from the factory and that the 6x9's will only get the bass response signal from the head unit, the tweeters only get the higher response signal, etc. If that IS the case, how do the tweeters get the higher response signal if they are fed off of the 6x9's bass response signal? Is there an inline filter between the 6x9's and the tweeters on the feed from the door speakers?
The Hertz's come with a hi-pass filter but I was told that it is optional and the speakers don't require that it be installed so I wasn't planning on putting it in. Maybe I should if I am using the tweeter feed coming off of the 6x9 speakers?
I'm just swapping out all the factory speakers for better aftermarket ones. I wanted to change the location of the tweeters though, from the factory A pillar location to the plastic wedge on the inside top of the door panel. If possible, I didn't want to have to fish the tweeter wires back into the door. If there's a set of tweeter wires coming off the 6x9 door speakers that makes changing the tweeter's mount location a lot easier.
One thing, though. I had read somewhere that the factory (non-Sony) stereo is crossovered from the factory and that the 6x9's will only get the bass response signal from the head unit, the tweeters only get the higher response signal, etc. If that IS the case, how do the tweeters get the higher response signal if they are fed off of the 6x9's bass response signal? Is there an inline filter between the 6x9's and the tweeters on the feed from the door speakers?
The Hertz's come with a hi-pass filter but I was told that it is optional and the speakers don't require that it be installed so I wasn't planning on putting it in. Maybe I should if I am using the tweeter feed coming off of the 6x9 speakers?
Thanks for the help/replies!
The tweeter wires come off the door speakers. They are crossed over with a CAP at the tweeter. Why would you want to move the tweeters? They are in a good position now. You should use the high pass filter
I thought about moving the tweeter location due to the recommendation of the manufacturer to locate the tweeters where they are directed towards the listener(s). Since I haven't yet swapped out the stock door speakers for the replacement ones it would be much simpler when I do the swap to then locate the tweeters on the plastic door cover since the door panel will be off and the tweeter feeds are right there-no need to take the A pillar covers off.
I'm waiting for the tweeters to arrive now so when they get here I'll look at the filter and figure out if it can be mounted on the door under the panel somewhere. I don't know how small it is...
Do you know where the stock tweeter crossover is located? There has to be one somewhere if the tweeters are powered off the door speaker signal-IF it's accurate that the OEM speaker pairs are each fed signals for particular wavelengths (6x9's for bass, 6 1/2's for midrange and the tweeters for high frequencies). Sorry to show my ignorance but what does a CAP refer to?
I couldn't find any type of access through the passenger side fire wall, so i drilled a hole and inserted a rubber grommet. I wanted to go through the passenger side because i wanted a clean looking install.. This wasnt easy and was time consuming but i am happy with the results
Covertness, is your truck a Screw? I assume you just cut out that rear cover to allow the sub box to sit right back?
Sound good?
Don't know. Is this a Screw?
Bigcitymike: No, pretty much followed what had been done here already. Parrot wiring harness, speed wires down the drivers side wiring channel, 4AGW marine grade power wire from battery down the passengers side wiring channel. Infinity Reference speakers throughout (might change later to Pioneer as I'm a big Pioneer fan), door panels covered in Dynamat, JBL 5-channel amp, Pioneer box and speaker mounted to custom made MDF plate I made in my wood shop and covered in black leather, cut the rear carpet behind the seat for room for the sub. All wires soldered and covered in heat shrink and braided wire loom. Hardest part was the MDF bracket bolted on top of the seat bracket bolts as that took 3 days to complete to my satisfaction. Running all the wires took maybe 3 hours (not my first rodeo running wires).
Last edited by covertness; 08-24-2016 at 07:16 AM.
That sub is a good sub. At a 92db sensitivity it's great. It only sounds as good as the EQ from the amp unless you run a processor.
The pioneer box is probably the only factory built sub box that will fit behind the rear seat in a Screw and not hit.
I mounted mine on a 36 inch 2x4 that was mounted to the floor. You must cut out the insulation to make it fit though.
One thing guys. You need to run some kind of EQ unit. The EQ in the head unit sucks.
I run a Audisun Bit One processor that allows 4 saved Sound environments programed through software and a laptop.
Bad *** and pricey but bad ***.
I have the same amp in my '04 hooked up to a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX.
Will play with the amp settings for a bit before I go the EQ route. Just looking for a cleaner sound than the factory crap they install. Shame I have to spend all this money and time fixing the stereo in a $70K vehicle.
08-22-2016, 12:10 PM
