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2015 F150 Platinum - Arc Audio/Audison/Sundown simple build

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Old 05-23-2016, 10:34 AM
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Default 2015 F150 Platinum - Arc Audio/Audison/Sundown simple build

I have finally started on my 2015 F150 - pulled most of my equipment out of my 2013 F150 (I have a build thread for).

Equipment list:
Arc Audio XDi 1200.6
Sundown Audio SA-6.5CS v2 comps
Sundown Audio SD-3 10"
Audison Bit Ten D
KnuKonceptz speaker wire
KnuKonceptz dampener
Sky High Car Audio power and ground

Setup will be active, plan on trying out the new Audiocontrol SA-4100i for tuning. Temporarily I will have my old fox box under the back seat until I decide how I want to dress up a better box.

So far I've just made speaker rings and began sound deadening. Tonight I will begin to make amp rack.

I'm really not too concerned about the doors - the window motor opening already sealed, I just added a few pieces of dampener but I've got the interior door panel pretty well covered on the inside. I'll seal everything around the speaker and just see how she sounds
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Here's a shot of the tweeters mounted in a-pillar spot
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More pics to come...
Old 05-24-2016, 10:07 AM
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Got some work done on the amp rack
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I'm able to fold seats up and down without issues
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Figuring out how I want to wire the resistors (needed on some factory Sony amps for the outputs, whether I end up needing them or not its extremely cheap insurance)
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:38 AM
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Looks like an awesome install

Couple of questions

How did you run the speaker wire from your crossover to tweets in the factory pillar? And to the mids?

Where did you place the crossovers (or are you running active)?
Old 06-17-2016, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 2014Screw
Looks like an awesome install

Couple of questions

How did you run the speaker wire from your crossover to tweets in the factory pillar? And to the mids?

Where did you place the crossovers (or are you running active)?
It's an active setup. I ran speaker wire down from the a pillar into the door sills and to the back wall. Mids I ended up tapping the factory speaker wire after I inspected the molex plugs in the doors I wasn't comfortable modifying them these plugs are the worst I've seen.
Old 06-27-2016, 10:08 AM
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OP LOVE your product selection, however, that huge hole in the doors, the vapor barrier, is a killer. You should consider making an access panel that can be removed for access to the inside of the door if need be. You also need to apply more sound dampening material inside and well as on the doors. You would be amazed how much cleaner your stereo will sound AND youll discover that you will actually have to turn your stereo down because doing the door dampening and access panel increases amplifier efficiency with at least a 3db gain.
Old 06-28-2016, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by KBT2011
Mids I ended up tapping the factory speaker wire after I inspected the molex plugs in the doors I wasn't comfortable modifying them these plugs are the worst I've seen.
Are you not running to high RMS for the factory speaker wire? Is your amp not rated at 150 watt RMS per channel?
Old 06-28-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
OP LOVE your product selection, however, that huge hole in the doors, the vapor barrier, is a killer. You should consider making an access panel that can be removed for access to the inside of the door if need be. You also need to apply more sound dampening material inside and well as on the doors. You would be amazed how much cleaner your stereo will sound AND youll discover that you will actually have to turn your stereo down because doing the door dampening and access panel increases amplifier efficiency with at least a 3db gain.
You think so about the vapor barrier? The plastic actually seemed fairly solid and is sealed fine - my thought process was air certainly isn't escaping through it? Certainly doesn't hurt to build one. Now that I have an RTA I could do some before and afters. For now I can't really tell much a difference between this truck in midbass and my last (2013 F150 where I put a ton of deadener and also sealed the vapor barrier). Good news is I have extra material so it wouldn't cost anything except time to give this a try. Maybe when the weather cools off a bit I'll get to work and let you know how it goes.

The other question about speaker wire - the factory is 18 AWG and if you do calculations based on how long the speaker runs is, it isn't horribly off but yes I'm probably experiencing a little drop in power but I can live with it, everything is performing fine (except what I'm about to explain).

I'm having to send my Arc XDi 1200.6 to the manufacturer. There is some kind of issue with channel 1. I've done tons and tons of testing to figure out the problem (I won't go into detail it is very strange but essentially the mid is cutting out and acting really really weird). A testament to Arc Audio though - they have been incredibly helpful and the customer service has been awesome. I will certainly be doing business with them in the future.
Old 06-28-2016, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by KBT2011

The other question about speaker wire - the factory is 18 AWG and if you do calculations based on how long the speaker runs is, it isn't horribly off but yes I'm probably experiencing a little drop in power but I can live with it,
Did you just tap into the factory speaker wire where the molex is or did you tap in further down the line?
Old 06-29-2016, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 2014Screw
Did you just tap into the factory speaker wire where the molex is or did you tap in further down the line?
I tapped at the sony amp. I cut the wires right after the amp and one side to the processor and one side to the speakers. I only did that for the mids though. The tweeters I ran new speaker wire.
Old 06-29-2016, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KBT2011
I tapped at the sony amp. I cut the wires right after the amp and one side to the processor and one side to the speakers. I only did that for the mids though. The tweeters I ran new speaker wire.
So you used only factory wire for the mids?

I will be running a passive set up so I thought I would run 16 awg wire from the back wall (crossover) up to the molex area and tap in from there for the mids. (if I find the molex to much of a PITA to figure out)

You see anything wrong in doing it that way?


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