Killens

Just got my 2015 XLT Screw, 1st priority is the sound upgrade. I've read page after page of threads and haven't really gotten clear answers.

2015 XLT SCREW, 8" Productivity Screen, No Sony, No NAV.

I want some warm bass, smooth mids, and crisp highs (don't we all?).
Not trying to blow the doors off, but I want some power there.
Budget is around 1500-2000.

Just some questions to begin:
1. If I can get away with it, I'd like 2 12" subs under the seat, or how ever much sub I can pack under the seat. 1 12" would suffice. 2 might be too much?

2. What sub would be the best bet while still fitting under the seats?
14' Kicker F-150 sub, rockford, etc.

3. Which door speakers would give me the best sound? I've read Kappa, JL, and I've had a really good experience with Alpine.

Any advice to point me in the right direction would be appreciated!

Mr Hahn

iTrader: (1)

Read this thread located a few posts below yours:
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2015-f...o-sony-314241/

That thread shows how to replace the door speakers, what size they are, and how to place a 12" subwoofer that could still be moved out of the way if you need the floor space.

1) Two 12" subs under the rear seat would be overkill for me, and harder to get out of the way if you need the floor space for cargo. I like the sub box in that 1Chad used.

2) Almost any 12" sub will fit under the folding rear bench seat.

3) Pick a brand of the appropriate size and go with it. I like Focal and Alpine.

Another option to consider:
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/wiring...-guide-307111/

I'm actually going to do something like Southpaw did to fix the bass first, then decide if I want new door speakers later.

Killens

Thanks, very helpful guides. I like the setup 1Chad used, but that installation looks extremely out of my knowledge range. Would the sound processor be necessary?

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Would the sound processor be necessary?

Not really. They use the processor to add back the bass that is rolled off at higher volumes with the factory HU. I would look into the Kicker setup

1Chad

The sound processor is not required. You can use simple high level speaker converters to get the low level signal for your amplifier, and some amplifiers are actually made to take high level input from the head unit speaker outputs directly. That said, There is a significant improvement in sound quality with a good DSP. Installing them is not really any more difficult than installing a high level line converter. The speaker output wires from the factory head unit are connected to the DSP and then you can connect low level rca connections from there to the amplifier.

Now tuning a DSP can be a different story, you can spend a lot of time on tuning if you are into it... I installed a DQ-61 because it seemed to provide a good value and feature set for my needs. I've played around with it a lot because it gives a number of bands of equalization and other processing capabilities, but the result is no comparison to the sound without the DSP. The DQ-61 has an button to turn on/off all of the processing and equalization for comparison and it makes a night and day difference in the overall sound quality when listening to the difference. (To be fair, I could probably make some improvements tweaks without the DSP by using the treble, mid, and bass settings on the factory unit, but I do have a more granular control with the DSP in place)

Killens

Setting the different bands and everything, along with the installation, is something I'm very inexperienced with. I would probably have to get all that put in and set by someone who knows a lot more than me. So I'm thinking it may be best to start with a door speaker upgrade with a sub & amp? Seems simple enough for beginners.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

That it is exactly what I recommend doing first. You will be surprised how much that helps.

Killens

Cool, thanks. Another stupid question, coaxial vs. component door speakers. I realize that on components the tweeter comes separate, but I doubt they could fit correctly to replace the two front tweeters, correct?

1Chad

There are some tweeters that are drop in to the a-pillar locations, but many others require some fitting / tweaking. There is a good amount of space behind and around that tweeter location, so there are some workable solutions for keeping the stock look.

The other thing to consider for a component speaker is that you will typically need to think about the wiring. The stock door speaker and stock tweeter are wired in parallel because the stock setup uses a very simple method to split frequencies. Most component speakers will require you to connect the speaker wiring first to a passive x-over which will split the frequencies in the signal. You can then connect the existing wire going to the door speaker to the woofer output of the crossover. You will then need to run a new wire from the tweeter out put of the crossover to the new tweeter. I know that isn't overly clear, but hopefully gets you thinking in the right direction.

I just ordered some component speakers for the fronts on mine, so I'll be doing this exact install sometime in the next few weeks. I'll be sure to write up the details and get it posted.

matt1reinders

Anyone have any tips on getting 4 gauge thru the firewall on the passenger side?